Converting Seton to open system

[RickH]

Is anyone running a Seton as an open system not closed? I have always had problems with trapped air even with vents. Still fighting problem of not heating house Been 3 yrs and have fine tuned about all I can. even turned furnace blower speed down this year. I am interested in any Heiss updates from this year also. Simple and inexpensive. Thanks

Seton W-90 w/HX

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

My GreenWood is and always has been set up open.

 

[RickH]

Can you explain your layout of the system. Did you keep pump at boiler? I was thinking of a 50 gallon storage in basement and move the pump to the tank since that would be the lowest point. What size is your Greenwood? Thanks

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

Is anyone running a Seton as an open system not closed? I have always had problems with trapped air even with vents. Still fighting problem of not heating house Been 3 yrs and have fine tuned about all I can. even turned furnace blower speed down this year. I am interested in any Heiss updates from this year also. Simple and inexpensive. Thanks

Seton W-90 w/HX

Perhaps we should talk more about YOUR system and what's not working . . .

 

[RickH]

Well here is short version. It has never been able to heat the house over 68 unless it is above 25. I have an approx. 2 degree temp drop from boiler to HX, a 18-20 degree drop after HX, all seasoned hardwood, never had any creosote, always clean tubes in back monthly(could go longer) resealed entire stove with silicone gaskets.
It just struggles to maintain water temp. If I want to get the temp to 70 I would be filling the stove every 4 hrs so it would maintain 180. Also that is filling it right to the tubes.I appreciate your time. Thanks

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

So, the only load is the w2a hx?

Assuming yes, I'd start by by-passing it. Then see if I could maintain 180* water.

Assuming I could maintain, I'd then need some assistance on pump size/speed and HX size. I'd also need some input from others here on what the temp drop should be across the HX.

Since I run w2w hx (20 plate) into radiant, I'll not be much help on your hx and/or warm air issues.

 

[RickH]

I have by passed & pressure checked system with no leaks. The HX is rated at 130,000 the largest that would fit in plenum. The pump is a three speed taco which I run on medium speed. We are traveling 150' to house. Thanks

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

When you by-pass the HX, will the Seton maintain 180*?

 

[RickH]

I could probably maintain 180 for approx. 12-16 hrs. I would have to recheck sometime. I am just wondering if I am getting some air locks occasionaly which in turn is not transferring heat properly. Thought maybe an open system would help.

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

Well, if you already know what the problem is, why not just go fix it? :smirk:

Knowing whether the hydronic will maintain 180* or not tells us where the problem lies. Without knowing that, I can't help you any further. Others will come along that may.

 

[RickH]

Could you explain your tank and pump layout

 

[tom in maine]

I am running an unpressurized system with my DIY gasifier.
There is a pump on one of our tanks that draws off the bottom with the return line is submerged a couple inches below the
water line.
This works well. I did put a swing check on the feed line, by the pump, in case I boiled the system and pushed steam back into the pump
which might cause it to lose its prime. (this has never happened)
With a Seton or Seton clone, the water should be treated with corrosion inhibitor. This would also allow you to use a cast iron circulator.

I use a Taco 009B in my system since everything is non-ferrous and I don't like the smell of the corrosion inhibitor that we use! :cheese:

 

[markmudd]

I have my best results in very cold weather running pump on high speed to move water through exchanger faster and reduce temp drop rather than slowing fan. When weather moderates, I can slow down the pump speed. If your fan has to run a lot or continuously to keep house at temp, then your sytem is probably undersized for your sq footage or you hav to move that air a long distance. Those heat exchangers suck a lot of BTU's. If my 150 K BTU boiler has to supply heat to my 20x20 exchanger with fan running continuously (like starting out with a cold house), it will do it but I won't get 10 hour burn time, more like 4 or 5 hour. My non gassifier boiler (w/ 450 gal storage) will provide around 8 to 10 hour burn time with house maintined at 68 or so after house is up to temp. But I had to have limit on fan set so it runs fan until temp in system drops below 130. While this is kinda low, it is still hot enough to provide usable heat thought ducts and keep house comfortable while gone all day or during nights. When I had fan set to so it would not run below 160, I had to feed it a lot more wood to keep it at peak temps so my fan would run.

I would think air in system is more related to plumbing layout than anything else? Air has to have a place to be trapped if you have proper air trap etc.