Could use some advice (Osburn 2400)

[begreen]

Is this a fireplace installation? If not, that means no block-off plate possible. Can you post a picture to clarify?

SLRSLY, both are correct I think, but in different ways. I don't think a liner will change the strong draft situation. But from a safety and perhaps cleaning perspective, yes a liner should be there unless the external chimney has a 1" gap from the building structure at all points. This is kind of rare.

I would proceed as discussed earlier. Find the boost air hole and block it. That may help lower the cruising temp. While there, make sure first that the air control valve isn't sloppy or loose. If it is, tighten it up. Look at how the air valve works and where it is stopped. Can the stop be adjusted slightly?

The house heating issue is different. This could just be that the stove doesn't produce enough btus to keep up with the heat loss. Slab floors are notorious heat sinks. Or it could be that heat is convecting too well to the top parts of the house. Are there any ceilings that are above 8ft.?

 

[begreen]

The slab has padding and carpet.
One thing I do notice. If I shut my dumper completely I can hear a very faint whistle coming in which sounds like under the stove near the ash pan. Just throwing this out there.

That is most likely coming from the air control valve. Our stove does this too when the air is almost closed.

 

[SLRSLY]

Thanks begreen. I really appreciate your input.
This is a wood stove, not an insert. For some reason no one seems to believe me. Maybe I posted in the wrong section or something. But it is a free standing wood stove sitting about a foot away from my wall. With black double wall stove pipe.
I did get the stove apart yesterday and I was able to block that extra air hole. The damper is fine, nice and tight. Blocking that hole, which was about the size of a dime, did make a pretty big difference. Now when I tell the stove I want it dampered down, it actually dampers down. No more whistle! It seems to have really helped with the overfiring as well. Finally!
But I am still left with wood that is burning at about the same rate. I mean common sense would convince me that the fire HAS TO burn slower with less air but somehow that just does not seem to be the case. And still just not really warming up in here.

So here is my best interpretation of my layout.

~Bedrooms
Stairway
Kitchen | Dining Room Office
-Three steps
~Stove room

At this point I do have a sheet placed in between the kitchen and the dining room to try to stop any heat from entering. I do not need the dining room heated and I'd rather try to keep the heat confined at lease while I troubleshoot.

I really appreciate you taking your time to help me out with this.
Here is a picture.

 

[SLRSLY]

Grr my drawing did not turn out at all.

     ~Bedrooms
                              Stairs
                                                     Kitchen------------------Dining Room---------Office
                                     3 steps
  ~Stove Room

 

[begreen]

Good to hear that there is some progress. Did the stove top temps drop down from 750F? I thought there was no fireplace involved, but it's good to have it confirmed. Sometimes it's difficult to get a clear visual image via the internet. The picture says it all.

Are there any high ceilings here in the kitchen or is everything pretty much 8ft.?

 

[SLRSLY]

Stove room is 8 feet and the kitchen is 9.
If I let the fire go it will go. But it is much more manageable now. I can now keep it from overfiring if I keep an eye one it.
The stove room also has a small hallway to the front door but I was not able to 'draw' that. Just trying to get any extra info out there.

I am able to return this chimney liner if it's not a be all end all kind of thing. I am about the burn the last row of $750 worth of firewood and would really hate to install it for no reason. As far as cleaning goes, I have a cleanout outside and a roto cleaner that works quite well. I clean it twice a year.