Country comfort maintenance?

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tjcole50

Minister of Fire
Oct 5, 2013
509
Ohio
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I just want to make sure my upstairs wood stove is safe and good to go this year. I have included some pics and wondered what the experts here thought should be kept up with, watched, or repaired. Thank you again everyone! Make and model are country condor cc325. I thought the oval shaped bent pipe looked odd or is that normal install equipment for an insert?
 
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I remember that thing used a very wide and thin oval pipe.....the real question there is whether it drafts properly.

If you don't already have a block-off plate, you should fabricate and install one.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/making_a_block_off_plate/

Other than that, check the firebox for cracks and stuff like that. The blower probably needs cleaned out from dust, etc.....the big thing is whether it drafts and burns well when all is said and done. Of course, you should have a smoke and CO detector in the room just in case it leaks, etc.
 
Drafts great! Gets a roaring fire . Slight smoke back at you when building but I think that's normal. That oval pipe is monster in length since it was originally an open fireplace. I will look at link provided thank you ! Forgot to add. With that oval pipe it has some bends to reach the tile flue. Now with that rectangular plate which the oval pipe passes through on its way up, I'm curious on a new stove install. Let's say in a few years I want a different stove in there? With a top circle exit how would that be fabricated? I know I can run strihht up with the design of the fireplace brick
 
Most newer stoves use a similar method but not as ovalized. That is, a flexible tube is used for the bottom 6 to 10 feet (most never stoves are lined to the top of the chimney) and it is flattened to go through the damper and then brought back to round to push into an adapted on top of the insert.

The sheet metal plate, if you make one, usually fits way down from the damper as shown in that article.
 
Most newer stoves use a similar method but not as ovalized. That is, a flexible tube is used for the bottom 6 to 10 feet (most never stoves are lined to the top of the chimney) and it is flattened to go through the damper and then brought back to round to push into an adapted on top of the insert.

The sheet metal plate, if you make one, usually fits way down from the damper as shown in that article.
So you don't see foreseeable issues with an upgrade down the road? Haven't looked at block off article but damper on mine is right on top of firebox?
 
No issues - once you remove that unit, it'll be like any new installation.....IMHO. Some people go all out and grind or cut away some of the damper frame, but you can find oval pipe to fit it also. Keep in mind that most new units use 6" whereas that thing used the equiv. of 10" or something like that!
 
Drafts great! Gets a roaring fire . Slight smoke back at you when building but I think that's normal. That oval pipe is monster in length since it was originally an open fireplace. I will look at link provided thank you ! Forgot to add. With that oval pipe it has some bends to reach the tile flue. Now with that rectangular plate which the oval pipe passes through on its way up, I'm curious on a new stove install. Let's say in a few years I want a different stove in there? With a top circle exit how would that be fabricated? I know I can run strihht up with the design of the fireplace brick

that "roaring fire" has badly warped the baffle, time to replace it, and figure out why the unit is overfiring!
(leaky door or glass gaskets?- burning too much wood w/air control wide open?, etc)

99% sure the company is out of the game, probably need to have a baffle fabricated...
 
that "roaring fire" has badly warped the baffle, time to replace it, and figure out why the unit is overfiring!
(leaky door or glass gaskets?- burning too much wood w/air control wide open?, etc)

99% sure the company is out of the game, probably need to have a baffle fabricated...
Found my manual lol! By baffle you mean the cat?image.jpg
 
Also the combustion control inlets located on the sides should be closed I'm guessing once at full burn?
 
Also the combustion control inlets located on the sides should be closed I'm guessing once at full burn?

You might need to have them cracked a bit, but once you get the cat up to temp and dial it down a few times you will get a feel for where to put the air inlets at. Your door gaskets do look like they need to be swapped out with new ones, those double doors tend to leak air more than a single door. I would do the dollar bill test on them.

Do you have a picture of the condition of the cat?
 
Got me all confused now boys! Now I know I need to put In a block off plate but what else? I mean this thing is currently heating my house. We are getting propane come December but I do not want to have my stove out of commision very long. Also I noticed my dampenr giving me a headache like it gets stuck not wanting to open/close fully at times
 
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Also that flexible section that kinks up to reach the clay flue, is that a common setup or should a future newer insert be re worked to accommodate a straight 6" pipe to meet the clay? Thanks again
 
Hello All! Been reading a lot on this site! Thanks for all the info. I have a country Comfort 350, just picked it up for 300.00, good deal? I now looked at a new cat! Spendy but seems worth it.

My real question is the oval opening...I have a six inch chimney liner. Is this big enough, once I make an adapter for this stove, or do I have to use an 8inch chimney liner? any advice would be appreciated! The opening on the adapter plate, is 5-7/8x9-1/4.
Could I take the old adapter plate off and use a new round adapter plate or will that cause me trouble?

Anyone have experience painting these stoves? I would like to touch mine up and paint it black!

Thank You in advance!
-Troy
 
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