Crack Firebrick a Problem?

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by jimmieguns, Dec 27, 2012.

  1. jimmieguns

    jimmieguns
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    Hello Friends!

    Can you please share with me if this cracked brick is a danger or burning problem-ie, excess draft,lost heat etc? Many Thanks

    crackedbrick.jpg
     
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  2. webby3650

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    Unfortunately, it's likely a sign of whats behind the scenes. I would guess there are other problems behind that panel. What model do you have?
     
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  3. jimmieguns

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    It is a vermont casting 0044.......my chimney sweep said he didnt think its a problem--actually shrugged it off- but I respect you guys here more!

    Thanks
     
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  4. swagler85

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    As long as it stays intact it should be fine
     
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  5. BrotherBart

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    I say a problem. Reason being fire going up under that cast piece above it instead of up the flue.
     
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  6. jimmieguns

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    That exactly what my chimney chap said, but i trust you guys more here! thanks...should i try to replace myself without removing unit? like just try to pull out and "shove" in there? is that even possible? i know brick stores near me must sell firebrick. Thanks
     
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  7. jimmieguns

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    Thats what I was thinking, but what harm can be done if that is so? start a house fire? lost heat? can I live with it?
     
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  8. BrotherBart

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    At the very least stuff the hole full of furnace cement or refractory cement. Both available at Home Depot.
     
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  9. jimmieguns

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    Great Idea !!! Many thanks...just use as directed or use com[​IMG]mon sense and "fill her up tight" ? thiis looks perfect
     
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  10. BrotherBart

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    Clean the crud out from behind the brick first and shove it back in place. Burn a low kindling fire after you put the stuff in there to dry it out and set it.
     
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  11. jimmieguns

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    Ok, so its safe to pull the cracked(right side one) out completely? then clean like you said,shove in and cement? thanks!
     
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  12. BrotherBart

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    Beats the hell out of burning in the thing like it is. >> Of course a brick is like three bucks at my stove store. But that looks like a long strip of refractory. A Vermont Castings specialty. Chit ya can't find anywhere.
     
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  13. jimmieguns

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    Yeah, you aint chittin me! !!! better to go with the furnace cement like you said , I think.
     
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  14. jimmieguns

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    just found some related ino-which i suspected!

    Damaged or missing firebricks inside the stove will allow the stove to cool excessively. You need to have a hot firebox in order to achieve complete combustion. Replace missing or damaged firebricks.

    Replace damaged or missing firebricks. The firebricks insulate the firebox, which needs to be maintained at a high temperature in order to fully-combust the fuel. If the firebox is less than adequately insulated, the combustion temperaure decreases leading to an increase in smoke, and lower efficiency.
     
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  15. jimmieguns

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    Good morning BrotherBart-- gonna fiv my broken firebrick today if I get the chance-question, you said to burn a low grade kindling fire afterward--- how low is low please? and for how long should do you think I should let it burn? I usually start my fire out with wads of newspaper and kindling. This gets a fierce initial flame inside the insert. Is that TOO much for the curing i am trying to accomplish?

    THANKS!

    J
     
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  16. BrotherBart

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    Temperature is more important than amount of flame. Just burn some kindling for thirty minutes or so and that should cook the moisture out of the furnace cement fine.
     
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  17. jimmieguns

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    OK, THANKS BUT CAN i GO AHEAD RIGHT INTO A REGULAR FIRE RIGHT AFTERWARD? iT'S COLD HERE oops caps sorry--its cold here and wanted to run the insert most of the day -but also wanted to address the problem...whats best to do? thanks!
     
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  18. BrotherBart

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    Yep. Let'er rip.
     
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  19. jimmieguns

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    Thanks- I thought i may have to wait 24 hours for a regular fire or something--I do not have to wait?
     
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  20. BrotherBart

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    Give it a half hour of low heat and then burn like ya always do. You do the low burn to dry it so that you don't have to wait twenty four hours.
     
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  21. jimmieguns

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    ok Thanks-- another question please-- i am replacing the door gaskets and i think they call for 5/16 but i can only find 3/8 inch in my area. its a TIGHT TIGHT squeeze but i think i could get it in.. IS that safe to try or best to wait and keep looking for the 5/16 THANKS!
     
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  22. BrotherBart

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    Get the 5/16". Force the doors and you are gonna break something.
     
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  23. jimmieguns

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    Hello My Brother Bart.....many many thanks for all your wisdom ,support and advice---you are SPOT-ON! on all your rec's....sealed my cracked firebrick, ordered th correct gaskets and have gotten bettter overall temps,,,,,,,,much less "leakage thru broken bricks" and better temps,,,,,,,,, I am just trying to be realistic and figure if my old VC 0044 can REALLY heat a 2000 sq ft home with poor insulation and vaulted ceilings-----maybe I am asking for too much-huh? it takes about 2-3 hours to get to 500-600 degrees internal box temp(thru glass).. ANY IDEAS? Please!
     
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  24. webby3650

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    It would be very, very, hard for this unit to heat that house without some help from another heat source.
     
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  25. jimmieguns

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    That's what i was thinking ...why do you say that? Just curious....it's age or because its an insert ?
     
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