It looks like the study materials are about $400 and taking the exam a bit less than $500. It is operated out of Indianapolis IN. Details below. http://www.csia.org/TradeResources/EarntheCCSCredential/tabid/134/Default.aspx OK, so I still suggest the damper. You only have to drill 2 holes in the stovepipe in a location that you can get the butterfly into the pipe and hold it while inserting the shaft. I would recommend above the first join in the stovepipe. This will allow the probe thermometer to go just below the join (maybe 6-8" below). The probe thermometer only requires drilling a 1/4" hole in single wall stovepipe. In double wall you need a 1/4" in the outer pipe and 3/16" in the inner (holds the probe straighter and prevents leakage of flue gas between inner and outer. Don't forget to remove the probe before sweeping the chimney... You will have to adjust the damper empirically by running with the draft maybe 1/5th open and then closing the damper until the stove remains "in control" and won't overfire (flue gas less than 900F should really be stable around 600F at that draft setting). The adjustments need time to stabilize, the fire needs sufficient time to reach steady state. If you think you have it, check it again next time you re-load. Just bear in mind that taming the draft will make lighting from cold more difficult. Since re-setting the damper is not very repeatable (unless you fit a pointer and a scale yourself), avoid the temptation to constantly open it for every cold start and try to adjust it as the load "fires up" since you are bound to make a mistake. Just do like they say in the manual, which is crack the door until the blaze is lit.