Critique My Piping...

[maple1]

My turn.

I meant to do this a while ago. Anyone see anything terribly wrong with this?

I drew it up right quick a few months ago - just a bit of the wiring is shown on there. My tanks aren't vertical though, they're stacked (not sure now why I drew them like that) - otherwise that's more or less my plans. Also not showing my DWH loop, which will just be a sidearm out of the top of the storage 'manifold', and in the bottom one, gravity with a zone valve for start/stop control. I haven't got any of this plumbed in yet, although my tanks are finally in place. The old boiler needs to go out before the new comes in, and I'm kind of waiting for it to run out of oil - might have to do the dipstick thing soon. One thing I can't figure out for the life of me looking at this today, is why I stuck that check in above the electric unit back then...

 

[Karl_northwind]

My turn.

I meant to do this a while ago. Anyone see anything terribly wrong with this?

I drew it up right quick a few months ago - just a bit of the wiring is shown on there. My tanks aren't vertical though, they're stacked (not sure now why I drew them like that) - otherwise that's more or less my plans. Also not showing my DWH loop, which will just be a sidearm out of the top of the storage 'manifold', and in the bottom one, gravity with a zone valve for start/stop control. I haven't got any of this plumbed in yet, although my tanks are finally in place. The old boiler needs to go out before the new comes in, and I'm kind of waiting for it to run out of oil - might have to do the dipstick thing soon. One thing I can't figure out for the life of me looking at this today, is why I stuck that check in above the electric unit back then...

That check will keep from short looping the electric boiler heat thru the tanks which will most likely have less pressure drop than the heating loops. if your electric boiler has big enough connections, you could just pass the heating water thru it, and use one circulator for your heating load, with a diverting zone valve by-passing the storage tanks when the temp drops below usefull temp. you get rid of one pump, for what it's worth.

k

 

[BoilerMan]

Your NO zone valve's output to the four loads will allow crossover between loads. I think your going to have to make a dedicated overheat zone. A regulat syncronous motorized zone valve will burn out quickly it it's powered all the time a magnetic NO zone valve it recomended for power outage gravity loop. Also move the main circulator to the supply manifold just before the 4 ZVs. A variable speed circulator will thrive in this enviroment, no need fot the internal check either. ZVs on the return also work better to reduce noise associated with watter hammer when closing. Connect your dump aquastat to the largest zone's valve parallel to the thermostat (simulating a call for heat in the event of boiler overheat. I'd recommend Caleffi or Grundfos (made by Caleffi) zone valves, they are NICE! It is a good thing to use swing checks (not weighted ones) on the four load supplied to stop hot water from migrating into zones that the valves are closed (on the return).

BTW it's not a subliminal Yamaha advertisement, it's my paper....... sorry
TS