Cruising temps on the probe thermo...

[gdk84]

Hello all! First of all i would like to say I have been keeping tabs on the PE cracked weld on the Super 27 topic here on this forum. Even though my stove is only 1 season old, I (like many) am still going to check when doing the summer cleaning of the unit. I guess you could say you just never know, even though I am not excpecting to find anything. I hope that things get resolved correctly!

With that being said, I do have a question! Wow imagine that! I have had my new Condar probe installed for over a month now. Here is the data that I have collected over that time in regardes to the operating temps...

Draft fully open then backed down in stages... Max temp on on probe 1100-1200F when draft is finally completely shut. If the draft was shut any sooner than the stages performed than the re-load would smolder.

Once the draft is fully closed and the wood is in the gassing process, Probe temp hoovers around 1000F varying a small degree. After the gassing process starts to slow down the probe obviously reflects that in slowly reduced temps.

This unit is installed in double wall Excel stovepipe 18 inches above the collar. Class A is Excel and runs through center of home. Total system height is about 18'.

I do understand (and have read) about the accuracy of these units on this site. My guestion is if anyone can relate to these type of readings using the "new" Condar 3-39 probe. This was my first year ever burning 24/7, and i do enjoy my oil company wondering why i never call them for a re-fill! Just like any newbie I want to burn as efficient as possible...Thanks for everything guys!

 

[begreen]

It sounds very high. We rarely see anything over 800F and that is just on a reload. As soon as the air is closed down and secondary combustion kicks in, the flue temp drops to the 500-600F range.

 

[Swedishchef]

It certainly sounds high to me. For my setup and stove, I rarely see temperatures above 500. Mostly, it's between 400-500. I am uncertain of my thermometer calibration; it could very well be off by several, if not hundred, degrees.

If there's no smoke coming out of my chimney, no soot on the glass and the secondaries are going well, I don't care what my probe says

Think about it: is it really good to have 1200 degrees going out a chimney? It's not that efficient: you're losing a significant amount of heat to the outside air.

Cheers

S

 

[begreen]

Yes, it would be a waste of heat and pushing the continuous rating for the pipe. But it could be a false readying. FWIW, we have the older style, 3-19 Condar probe.

 

[gdk84]

It certainly sounds high to me. For my setup and stove, I rarely see temperatures above 500. Mostly, it's between 400-500. I am uncertain of my thermometer calibration; it could very well be off by several, if not hundred, degrees.

If there's no smoke coming out of my chimney, no soot on the glass and the secondaries are going well, I don't care what my probe says

Think about it: is it really good to have 1200 degrees going out a chimney? It's not that efficient: you're losing a significant amount of heat to the outside air.

Cheers

S

Thanks for the reply guys!

Just FYI. my stove top temps during cruising is about 750F ish sometimes more depending on wood.

 

[NH_Wood]

Not sure which Condar probe I have - it's about a year old or so. My probe settles in at about 900-1000* after the secondaries peak. I mainly just watch the fire now. My wood is very well seasoned - I make sure the secondaries are going well until the stove is completely shut down and then wait to reload. I'll admit that I used to watch the probe and stovetop temps a lot during the first few months of burning! Cheers!

 

[unhdsm]

Are you sure your thermometer is not measuring Celsius? That would make your temps about right.

 

[gdk84]

Not sure which Condar probe I have - it's about a year old or so. My probe settles in at about 900-1000* after the secondaries peak. I mainly just watch the fire now. My wood is very well seasoned - I make sure the secondaries are going well until the stove is completely shut down and then wait to reload. I'll admit that I used to watch the probe and stovetop temps a lot during the first few months of burning! Cheers!

This is about the range I see after turning the air all the way down until the secondaries start to slow down, then the probe starts to drop. This is a Fahrenheit Condar probe thermometer also.

 

[xman23]

Don't think it could be celcuis, 750c is 1300F. Is this 1000 -1200 F from a prob in the flue? Whats the stove top temp? That's a lot of heat for the end of the heating season.

 

[gdk84]

Don't think it could be celcuis, 750c is 1300F. Is this 1000 -1200 F from a prob in the flue? Whats the stove top temp? That's a lot of heat for the end of the heating season.

These temp reading are from the probe thermometer in the flue as described above. Stove top during air closed is 750F ish. Even tho these temps seem high for shoulder season, I would like resolution before next season so i can put this issue to rest. That is why i have been experimenting. Plus, it doesnt take much effort to reach these temps at all.

 

[oldspark]

Seems to me you should be able to start to close the air at a lower temp and not have it smolder, what kind of wood is this and how dry is it and how big are the loads.

 

[firefighterjake]

Bit high for me as well . . . Condar Chimney Plus 610302 probe thermometer . . . I start to close down the air at 400-450 degrees . . . when the secondaries are going I'm getting a 600-800 average temp normally.

 

[WidowMaker]

As we speak my Lopi Endeavor is cruising at 600 stove(heat gun verified) and 400 stove pipe probe(210 heat gun)

 

[Highbeam]

Draft fully open then backed down in stages... Max temp on on probe 1100-1200F when draft is finally completely shut. If the draft was shut any sooner than the stages performed than the re-load would smolder.

Once the draft is fully closed and the wood is in the gassing process, Probe temp hoovers around 1000F varying a small degree. After the gassing process starts to slow down the probe obviously reflects that in slowly reduced temps.

Temps sound very familiar but maybe 100 degrees high. Especially this time of year, shoulder season, I think it is a good thing to dump lots of heat into the flue to keep it as clean as possible. Knowing that the short shoulder season fires may not be enough to burn off the condensation otherwise.

Those 1100 +/- temps are what I shoot for at cold start, once I hit 1200 or so then I shut down the air. The second stage, where you are hovering around 1000, I hover around 850-900 which is pretty much double the stove top temps.

Typically Hearthstones run hot flue temps. You don't have a hearthstone though. I bought my condar probe meter within the last year or so, I think it is the new style.

 

[gdk84]

The dealer is coming out next week to take a look. After explaining everything, he seems to think that I may be suffering from a slight overdraft situation. A draft damper was brought up, but doesnt think its needed to go to that extreme. He is going to bring a "deluxe" chimney cap that has a band around it instead of being all open. He says these slightly reduce draft and is going to install it and run the stove himself. Lets hope this takes care of it.

 

[shawneyboy]

Not sure which Condar probe I have - it's about a year old or so. My probe settles in at about 900-1000* after the secondaries peak. I mainly just watch the fire now. My wood is very well seasoned -

Same stove as NH and same temps with a probe thermo..

Shawn

 

[oldspark]

The dealer is coming out next week to take a look. After explaining everything, he seems to think that I may be suffering from a slight overdraft situation. A draft damper was brought up, but doesnt think its needed to go to that extreme. He is going to bring a "deluxe" chimney cap that has a band around it instead of being all open. He says these slightly reduce draft and is going to install it and run the stove himself. Lets hope this takes care of it.

To me the damper would be a much better option as you would have control over it, why does he think the damper is an extreme fix.

 

[gdk84]

The dealer is coming out next week to take a look. After explaining everything, he seems to think that I may be suffering from a slight overdraft situation. A draft damper was brought up, but doesnt think its needed to go to that extreme. He is going to bring a "deluxe" chimney cap that has a band around it instead of being all open. He says these slightly reduce draft and is going to install it and run the stove himself. Lets hope this takes care of it.

To me the damper would be a much better option as you would have control over it, why does he think the damper is an extreme fix.

Im not 100 percent sure. I do know he wants to observe stove operation. Its always hard to "explain" things and get a good picture of the situation so i think its good he is willing to come take a look.