Cub GT1554 start/run issue

[PapaDave]

I can start the tractor, but when key goes to run position, tractor stalls.
It'll stay running if I keep the key in start position.
Any ideas what the problem could be?

 

[greg13]

Start with a switch, sounds like a contact problem in the switch.

 

[Jags]

I second the switch. Does the tractor stay running for a few seconds before it dies or does it die immediately?

 

[PapaDave]

Thanks Jags. It dies as soon as I let go of the key. Immediately.
Key goes to "run" position, then the tractor shuts down.
The starter drops out once running like it's supposed to, but I need to hold the key in the "start" position to keep it running, which keeps the starter engaged and spinning.

 

[Jags]

Sounds like you are loosing the "ignition" connection when you go to "run". It works in "start" so I would have to say that the wiring is probably good. Time to look into the switch. It could be internal to the switch. Do you have any ability to test the back of the switch (multimeter)?

 

[PapaDave]

I can get my hands on one, but don't know how to use it.

 

[Jags]

Hmmm...how about the person that you are getting it from?? Basically you would need to find the ignition "hot" from the back of the switch going to the ign. module of the tractor. Read the back of the switch when in "starting" position, and then again in "run" position. Don't confuse it with the wire for the starter solenoid. And the new tractors can have quite a few wires on the back of the switch for all the safety switches located around the mower.

Or - throw a few bucks into the wind and change out the switch for a "trial and error" troubleshooting.

 

[Jags]

Goto this page: http://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/59.html
I selected 14AK13BK009 (if this is different than yours, select the proper one).
For the one I selected, go to page 35/36 for electrical diagram. Print those two pages. It will allow you to track down the proper pin on the back of the switch. Let me know if you need help.

 

[PapaDave]

Well, I just came back in from messing with the tractor.
Pulled the switch, undid the connectors, and cleaned everything. Put it back together and it's all gooder. Starts and runs fine.
I should have known, .....check the easy stuff first. Doh!
I was just about to order a new switch. Now, I can get back to work. Over a month behind loading the shed.
I appreciate the help.

 

[Jags]

Cool - crappy connection. In the Navy we called that "cleaned and re-seated".

 

[PapaDave]

It was a several times a day occurrence on the CNC machines before I retired.
Control boards that looked somewhat like a desktop's motherboard needed to be either replaced or reseated.
Old tech that had seen lots of use and many better days before I even got there.

 

[ad356]

i dont like the newer lawn and garden offerings, they have more issues then anything else. once you fix an older machine they will run forever, the new stuff is 300 hours toss it in the trash. my choice for a "lawnmower" is actually a small farm tractor. i use a 1948 farmall cub with a 60" belly mower and a "54 inch pushblade for snow.

 

[PapaDave]

Well, now I'm having an issue with one of the plugs not firing.
Anyone know if I can swap coils to see if the no fire moves to the other side?

 

[Jags]

Unless there is a true left/right, I don't see why you couldn't.

 

[basod]

Well, now I'm having an issue with one of the plugs not firing.
Anyone know if I can swap coils to see if the no fire moves to the other side?

What about a known good plug swapped in and grounded while cranking - should show spark.
Someone had an issue with what seemed like a failing coil on here a while back and it ended up being the ground wire to the kill switch/ignition.
Sometimes the wire gets chaffed and goes to ground

 

[PapaDave]

I didn't take a real good look at the ignition wires when I pulled them, but that's easy enough to do. I just noticed that the contact points in the ignition switch plugs were dirty, so cleaned and reconnected.
I know that mice have been under the cowling and chewed some coil wires that I had to splice back together last year. It has run fine since, and now, seemingly all of a sudden, it's not.

 

[PapaDave]

Unless there is a true left/right, I don't see why you couldn't.

Different part no.'s on each coil, which is why I asked. I have no idea why they might be different.
I've looked at parts diagrams and done a search, but nothing matches what I have, and I can't even find the part # I have. Very strange.

 

[semipro]

I don't put together any exposed electrical connections anymore without coating contact surfaces with conductive grease, an antioxidant compound, or Vaseline (in a pinch). This applies to bulb bases in cars, push on connectors, trailer light connectors, battery connectors, terminal strips, etc. etc..

 

[PapaDave]

Good thought.
I have a tube of dielectric "grease".

 

[Jags]

Could it simply be a bad spark plug?

 

[PapaDave]

Changed both a few days ago to eliminate them as suspects.

 

[Jags]

Good call. Dunno...too new for me to be overly familiar with it without standing in front of it. I'm pretty old skool.

That being said - there are some pretty basic stuff that I would start with. Knowing that you had mouse issues in the past, I would double check all that wiring. Confirm continuity with no grounding issues, etc. all the way up to the coil. If that is looking good, I would probably pony up for the coil.

 

[PapaDave]

That was my thought too, but like I said, none of the searches gave me the same part # that I have....none of 'em.
Time to call the shop, I guess, and see what they have to say.
Could be in the harness, since that's where most of the chewing happened.
I need this thing running to save my back.
I'll probably end up clearing a spot in the shop to park it so the meeces don't turn it into their own little bedroom.

 

[Jags]

Yeah - it could be that a part number was superseded. The shop should know about that. Do what it takes to keep those critters out. They can really cause issues.

 

[PapaDave]

Yeah - it could be that a part number was superseded.

Coming from a material handling background (one of my prior lives), that was a thought as well, but usually, there's a notation stating the change. I haven't seen any notation.
The shop can tell me, I'm sure.
Thanks for all the suggestions Jags. It helps keep me focused, instead of going off on goose chases.