Curing finish outside?

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Blazin

Member
Dec 8, 2010
71
Northern Plains, Montana
I'm getting my new Englander 13-NCL on Saturday. I want to do the first few burns outside to cure the finish without getting run out of the house, so I have a couple questions.

What kind of temp do I need to get the stove up to, to achieve cure?

Any advice on how many times I need to burn before it's cured? Or, just until it stops smoking and smelling?

I'm guessing I'll need to put some stovepipe on for that, but how much is really needed to create draft?
 
I would bet you will still get some smell. Most stoves give off smell for several burns, increase progressively in temperature. It took more than a week, 7-10 days, for my stove to get past it. I could recommend turning on your bathroom fan and range hood, then open windows.
 
Thank you, RNLA. I actually do have the time to burn it for almost a week outside, since I'm waiting for a shipment of Durock to arrive.

Anyone have any advice on how much pipe I need to run?
 
thats a new approach...
try to get the outside air up to temp
and warm up the whole nieghborhood
hmmm.....
might work
 
I thought the manual for the NC13 had stated temps??

If not, your first fire should be on the light side. - say 200-250F

Second one should be in the 400F range.

Third one - run her up to full operational temps.

Keep in mind that the stove should be cold for each fire.

Also keep in mind that stove PIPE can outgas as well.
 
Jags said:
I thought the manual for the NC13 had stated temps??

The manual I downloaded from Englander's website didn't state temps, just the fact that it would smoke and smell.



Also keep in mind that stove PIPE can outgas as well.

I'll keep that in mind, and use the flue sections outside also.

Thanks
 
Plenty of folks do that. Also, if you are using new pipe, make sure you put that on the stove too to burn off the stink. The stove will burn better with the pipe on anyway. Maybe you could plan a cook-out?!
 
As others have already mentioned use all of the pipe that needs curing, if you can. When I did my first few burns outside, I just used 1 section of pipe and everything worked just fine. But, I still had some curing odors after the final installation...some of the odor was coming from the remaining sections of pipe that I did not use outside, and some of the odors also came from the stove.
 
A couple of years ago I held a GTG chainsaw race at my house and thought it would be a novel idea to have a wood stove on blocks for people to sit around and get warm. I found out real quick that doesn't work and I discovered a real quick way to make a terrible sticky creosote mess in and on a wood stove. Even 100,000 BTU's aint crap in the great outdoors and the stove pipe couldn't get even the slightest bit warm with 15 degree air on it so the creosote had the best breeding ground. I'll never do that again!
 
Getting a draft started is the hard part. And because of that you will probably have to keep the door cracked to keep it burning good. But it has been done. As to temps. Crank it up and watch the fumes come off of it. You ain't gonna hurt a steel stove getting it hot. This ain't one of those dainty rocks or piles of cast iron. :lol:
 

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Thanks for all your advice. I've got the double wall I'm using up to the adapter, so I'll use that.
As far as a cookout goes, I don't know if anyone will want to stand around in 10F weather to wait for burgers. :lol:
 
The biggest problem I had doing it in November was brushing the leaves off of it all the time as they fell.
 
When I cured my Summit outdoors last summer I started with approx. 6 ft of single wall, and the stove would not draft at all without the door open. When I added another 5 ft it came to life, and burnt great. My stove really needed the extra feet of pipe, especially in 75-80 degree weather. With the short pipe I would get a good, hot fire with the ash clean out open, but it would almost go out when I shut it, even with the primary air set to high. I was amazed at how sensitive this thing is to chimney height.
 
If you need additional footage of pipe, you can always get a couple of 3 ft heat duct sections. Cheap and snap together easily and will slip right into the actual stove pipe.

Remember that these are galvanized and you don't want to be in the line of smoke as they off gas.
 
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