We have a medium sized weeping willow tree that is half dead (storm damage, lack of water, etc.) and a bradford pear tree (downed last year in a blizzard). is it worth the time and effort to use these? we haven't yet installed our stove but I'd like to have more wood than less... anyone else have luck with these woods?
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firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
Willow = fast burning. Lots of folks rate it on par with burning softwood, poplar, etc. . . . me, if it's there and half dead you might as well take it down and use it during the shoulder season and save the better BTU wood for later in the Winter.
Pear . . . never burned any . . . but generally folks equate fruit trees with better BTU wood. I know apple wood is wicked nice to burn . . . plus it smells nice while you're cutting and splitting it. Some folks however would rather save wood like this for smoking meat.
Pear . . . never burned any . . . but generally folks equate fruit trees with better BTU wood. I know apple wood is wicked nice to burn . . . plus it smells nice while you're cutting and splitting it. Some folks however would rather save wood like this for smoking meat.
Billybonfire
Feeling the Heat
Hi CatieG,
we have an old orchard with pear and apple trees, have been burning both, and find them both excellent.
They need a couple of years seasoning and the old knarly bits are great for long burns
.Billy.
Thanks Billy!!
dumb question from the new girl; why is seasoning so important? I thought dry wood was the only requirement.....
dumb question from the new girl; why is seasoning so important? I thought dry wood was the only requirement.....
Billybonfire
Feeling the Heat
No worries Catie,
seasoning is the process of drying the wood, generally good to burn if under 20% moisture content, if unsure I would suggest getting a moisture meter, not sure of the price in the US, but I have a Stihl moisture meter (decent make) cost about £14 on Amazon.
Regards
Billy.
Wood Duck
Minister of Fire
Hi new girl, welcome to the forum. Seasoned wood = dry wood. New stoves need seasoned firewood to work their best. For most wood a year is Ok, but two years in a nice open location off the ground is great.
Willow is a very low density wood, and one of the lowest on my preference list. I'd take it if it is in the yard, which is how I got my willow. It burns just fine, but it doesn't last long compared to other woods. Pear is a high density wood, among the best. The only bad thing about pear and apple wood is the trees are usually crooked and full of knots and Ys, but there is nothing wrong with the wood.
Willow is a very low density wood, and one of the lowest on my preference list. I'd take it if it is in the yard, which is how I got my willow. It burns just fine, but it doesn't last long compared to other woods. Pear is a high density wood, among the best. The only bad thing about pear and apple wood is the trees are usually crooked and full of knots and Ys, but there is nothing wrong with the wood.
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
Not a dumb question . . . no question is . . . we all learn from each other.
It's been answered already, but in my mind while some folks may call wood "dry" and "seasoned" interchangeably to me dry = wood that is not covered in rain water, snow, ice. and seasoned = wood that has been allowed to dry out from the inside which makes it easier to burn cleanly and efficiently. Semantics perhaps . . .
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
CatieG, as I posted in another thread, you need to get your wood now or sooner! Most wood will be okay to burn after it has been cut, split and stacked for a year. Some wood takes longer. What about the dead standing stuff? Most times we find that the very top of the tree can indeed be burned right away but the bottom of the tree will still be very wet and need time to dry.
In general, this is what we recommend. Cut your wood in the winter months if at all possible. We cut from December through February and usually stop March 1 but have cut some in March a few times. We like to leave the trees alone when spring arrives keeping in mind the birds and animals that depend upon the trees for nesting. So we stockpile the wood in the winter months, split it when the snow melts, usually in March or April and then stack it immediately.
We stack so the wood is off the ground a few inches and do not cover the wood until the following winter or late fall. Then we cover only the top of the stacks.
If you need the wood soon, stack in single rows and leave a good amount of space between the rows. You will also need to stack rather loosely to allow the greatest air circulation. This also means you should stack the wood where it will get wind. Wind is more important than sunshine.
Here are a couple pictures showing how we do it:
Cut wood during winter months.
Stockpile the winter's cutting and wait until Spring.
Spring! Time to split.
Now it is time to stack the wood. Notice the poles under the wood to keep the wood off the ground.
All stacked and then wait until snow flies to top cover. The closest stack in the second picture is covered with rubber roofing. We still prefer old galvanized roofing for the top covering though.
Ah winter! Now the wood is covered and it will just sit in the stack a few years before being burned.
In general, this is what we recommend. Cut your wood in the winter months if at all possible. We cut from December through February and usually stop March 1 but have cut some in March a few times. We like to leave the trees alone when spring arrives keeping in mind the birds and animals that depend upon the trees for nesting. So we stockpile the wood in the winter months, split it when the snow melts, usually in March or April and then stack it immediately.
We stack so the wood is off the ground a few inches and do not cover the wood until the following winter or late fall. Then we cover only the top of the stacks.
If you need the wood soon, stack in single rows and leave a good amount of space between the rows. You will also need to stack rather loosely to allow the greatest air circulation. This also means you should stack the wood where it will get wind. Wind is more important than sunshine.
Here are a couple pictures showing how we do it:
Cut wood during winter months.
Stockpile the winter's cutting and wait until Spring.
Spring! Time to split.
Now it is time to stack the wood. Notice the poles under the wood to keep the wood off the ground.
All stacked and then wait until snow flies to top cover. The closest stack in the second picture is covered with rubber roofing. We still prefer old galvanized roofing for the top covering though.
Ah winter! Now the wood is covered and it will just sit in the stack a few years before being burned.
bogydave
Minister of Fire
All wood has BTUs & will burn.
Softer , less dense wood (like willow) has less BTU & work well for times when you just need a fire to take the chill off.
" why is seasoning so important?" Great question!
Seasoning wood is important, there's lots of water in green fresh cut wood.
When burned, most of the BTUs are used to boil the water out of the wood so it can burn & goes up the stack.
That wet moisture laden smoke , cools & condensates in the chimney & creates creosote, & will require frequent cleaning.
Reduces the heat efficiency of the stove.
Moisture (water) content over 20% won't burn well in the newer EPAs stoves.
Dry wood ,20% or less moisture content. ((less than 20% of the weight of the wood is water)
Burns clean & efficient, less or no creosote build up in the chimney.
You burn less wood & get more heat in the house.
It takes an average of about 1 year for stacked wood to dry ( stacked off the ground in an area with some air circulation)
Sun helps too. (Some wood, like oak, take 2 or more years to dry below 20% moisture)
Softer , less dense wood (like willow) has less BTU & work well for times when you just need a fire to take the chill off.
" why is seasoning so important?" Great question!
Seasoning wood is important, there's lots of water in green fresh cut wood.
When burned, most of the BTUs are used to boil the water out of the wood so it can burn & goes up the stack.
That wet moisture laden smoke , cools & condensates in the chimney & creates creosote, & will require frequent cleaning.
Reduces the heat efficiency of the stove.
Moisture (water) content over 20% won't burn well in the newer EPAs stoves.
Dry wood ,20% or less moisture content. ((less than 20% of the weight of the wood is water)
Burns clean & efficient, less or no creosote build up in the chimney.
You burn less wood & get more heat in the house.
It takes an average of about 1 year for stacked wood to dry ( stacked off the ground in an area with some air circulation)
Sun helps too. (Some wood, like oak, take 2 or more years to dry below 20% moisture)
So; if we were to wait to do a wood stove until next year; we could cut the wood now, store it and let it season a year. And we'd be doing ourselves a favor by waiting a year. I wish I'd have known that LAST year!! Haha well I have a good idea of what I want at least. Probably won't get my wood stove this year sadly... But that gives me more time to ask questions and learn! And buy an awesome chainsaw and splitter. Maybe save up for some fancy tiles.... Sorry the girlie side of me peaks out on occation!
weatherguy
Minister of Fire
Its never too late, you may get lucky and find some seasoned wood this year, Ive got some by looking on craigslist, sometimes pellet converts have some wood left over that they want to sell, also like Dennis said the tops of standing dead can usually be burned right away.
I had my wood stacked and drying the year before I bought my wood stove but still couldnt burn the oak, oak I found out takes 2-3 years.
good luck. Dont forget the milk crate.
If you decide to wait until next year, I saw in your other thread that you were looking for triple wall chimney. I had to have a new chimney put in so in the spring I will be taking out 5 - 3' sections of Duravent Duraplus triple wall chimney that I could give you a good deal on. I also have the cap, flashing and storm collar. It is 6" diameter and nothing is wrong with it. It was just installed with no regard to the clearances that are required. I am located in North East, Md so hopefully you are close by.
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
Random thoughts . . .
If you get your wood now a year ahead of time you will be among the select few newbie wood burners who will start burning and will not have to deal with fires that are hard to get going, blackened windows, sizzling splits and choked up chimneys . . . you will be much, much happier in the long run . . . even though you may have friends and family members who burn with wood who will be thinking you are nuts to have to wait . . . especially if they heat with wood and just process their wood or buy their wood a month or two before they burn it . . .
To the Delorean . . . and then you can have the woodstove and seasoned wood too!
It's always good to ask lots of questions and be happier with your purchase then it is to rush into things . . . especially when you're talking about something that is pretty expensive and is taking up valuable floor space in the home . . . not to mention something tht can burn the place down.
Fancy tiles . . . nothing wrong with that . . . for many of us the woodstove is or has become not just a heating appliance like the oil boiler or furnace . . . it is a focal point in our living rooms and if it's going to take up space there it may as well look pretty.
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