Custom controls for my Advantage 2T

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Snowy Rivers

Minister of Fire
Feb 7, 2010
1,810
NW Oregon
Well the last week has seen us use the new to us stove every night and it has done a marvelous job at keeping the place warm.

Now, that said the controls on the stove have some issues.

The blower fan has basically one stable speed and one area on the dial that it will hunt up and down.

The steady speed is a good one and is not too noisy and puts out a good amount of airflow.

OK I am sure that the control board is tired as this is a 93 model stove.

SOOOOOOOOOOO
I am going to set up a Mosfet solid state relay that has on and off times adjustable
With this relay I will install a "one shot" relay that is also adjustable to feed power aqround the low temp snap switch during startup.

OK the timing is easy, the fan speed is no biggy either, I am using an adjustable POT to permanently set the fan speed to what I desire.

The exhaust blower will be set to the optimal speed using a similar POT as used for the room air fan.


I have a strobe tach and have already checked the speeds on the room air fan and the exhaust blower while running.

I really dont like the particular overtemp safety snap discs and am going to replace them with the same temp range but instead use the manual reset type.

So if the stove overheats the snap disc will open and then need to be manually reset to apply power.

Really dont want the thing coming back to life if there were an issue.

Done some draft tests the other day with a borrowed magnahelic guage and the firebox depression is right in the sweet spot.

So the fuel rates will be Auger on for 1.4 seconds (Relay is adjustable so the optimal auger on time can be set and locked in) Factory setting is 1.4 but from 1.3 to 2 is the window.

The Burn time or off times will be adjustable from 2.5 seconds (High heat) to 6 seconds (low heat)


The exhaust fan voltage is supposed to change with the fuel settings but does not.


I am going to use the current fan speed as it works great with the settings I need.

The relays use 8 pin and 11 pin plug in architecture so all set there.

The original control panel location is perfect. I have a new panel blank made up and will install all switches and controls in the new panel.

I am also installing a master FUSE receptacle in the panel as well as a master power switch.

I am going to use a fixed room air fan speed with a switch to turn the fan off while starting the stove.

The fan circuit will have an added snap switch that will turn the fan off if someone fails to turn the fan on thus preventing an overtemp situation.

Earth Stove did this. The fan was on a Rheostat and if you did not turn it on, the snap switch would pop the fan on high every so offten to keep the stove temps in check.

I need to clean the firepot on the fly using the nut shells and not being able to turn off the room air blower is ugly when you pop the door open to clear the clinkers. (ash blows all over)

I also want to install a pressure switch on the firebox that will shut the stove off if the door should pop open or be left open.

This stove model has a pressure switch on the exhaust side to shut it off if the exhaust is plugged but no doo ajar safety.

I may also wire in a stack temp snap switch that will shut things off if the stack reaches 250F at the point where it goes into the thimble.

These pipes get hot, to the point that placing ones hand on it will get your attention


This will be summers project. Actually really simple to do and I have most of the stuff needed already.

The analog controls used in these oder stove had many issues and the replacment digital boards are just expensive and still problematic.

The main controls I am using are off the shelf technology and readily available for very little $$$$

Less than $100 for both relays the adjustment pots and the sockets to hold the relays.

The rated cycles of these relays are in the multi millions and the manufacture told me that short of abuse they have never had any real issues.


The Mosfet solid state relays are industrial strength and the style Ihave are rated for 120V at 10 amps

Looking forward to a simple and reliable contoller for the Old girl.

The plan may seem a little lacking in control but for what I use my stove for, one or two heat settings is all I need with the nut shell based fuel

As all this comes together I will snap piccy's and do a schematic of the install and post it here.

The company I am getting the relays from used to supply almost all pellet stove makers with these type controls.

This stopped when the manufactures went to all proprietary controls and had the stuff made overseas.

This was a big cost saving measure and not one to make the stoves any better.

The digital control boards are not very forgiving of a shorted motor (fan or ??) and one good power hit during a storm can trash a $300 control board POOOOOOF.

The relays are far more forgiving.

Nice thing is that if a relay fails its 5 minutes, start to finish to swap in a new one and be back running. Actually on this stove the side panel could be opened, the relay unplugged and a new one installed without dropping the fire.

Just unplug the stove for a few minutes, do the swap and repower and right back at it.

The greatest issue with the control boards is the integrity of the components or lack there of.

Far too complex for something as simple as a fire.

The major parts such as the auger motor and the fan motors (Exhaust and room air fan) are tough items that can last for a buttload of years even being used every season 24/7 as long as they are serviced regularly.

The physical parts of the stove (firebox, pot and cabinet) should be able to last for 20-30 years or longer.

Keep an eye out and I will make sure to post stuff on this redo.

Snowy
 
Here is a Piccy of the relay sockets.
The white one is the 8 pin unit and will be sued for the startup relay (one shot)
The black one is the 11 pin and will be used for the On/Off timer control relay.

The actual time the relay is energized is controled by either a fixed setting, an onboard knob or a remote POT mounted in the panel.

The feed motor on time will be adjustable but not from outside the stove cabinet.
The off time or heat setting will be adjustable with a panel mounted Pot.

The control knob on the Pot will have physical limits to allow only the setting I want.

The relays come in a variety of specs so I chose the .1 to 10 seconds catagory to allow getting into the optimal burn window.

Once the actual locations on the POT are found I will place physical stops on the panel to allow the pot to only work within those limits. Low and high settings as I mentioned before.

I may spend more time on the phone with the rep and see if I can get a relay that will allow a closer calibration or I may go with a rotary switch and individual resistors for the settings.

Will work this out as time goes by.
Nice part is that the Pot to control the time is connected to two terminals on the socket and this would allow either a Pot or a selctor switch/resistor set.

I may go with the resistor set and the selector to keep the settings uniform.

Pretty basic stuff.


Snowy
 

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that is a lot of Screwing around to save $300 for a new 902 control board that has a lot of functions.
or if you like the solid state type of controls
just copy the Enviro EF 3 if you dont mind no combustion blower speed control.
or the EF4 uses a phase controller to control the combustion blower speed to match feed rate.

the original Lopi and Avalon 900 pellet stoves used the same type of timers.

both stoves just use
a 15 minute start up cube timer for start up and Ignitor On time.
a 3 second ON cube timer for the auger ON time
and a Potentiometer for the Feed delay.

then the EF 4 has the Phase controller to control Voltage to the blower to match the turn down of OHMS on the Potentiometer.


I have seen and worked on a stove that was made for a year only about 100 made by a small start up company that used the type of timers and relays you are talking about. it as a nitemare. after many timers and relays screw up I helped a costumer change his stove over to a Breckwell control board.
 
or and a simple rheostat to control Convection blower speed. or even a nice wall slide dimer works good also.
I used them all the time when I installed fireplaces with blowers but install in the wall just like a light switch.
 
The potentiometer should have a range of approximately 68KΩ to 850 KΩ (± 10%).
Full counter-clockwise (switched off) = open circuit, overload or infinite resistance
Low fire 800 KΩ to 900 KΩ
High fire 68 KΩ to 82 KΩ (EF4 Timer Control 36.5 KΩ)
 
Lots of ways to get the job handled for sure.

I have used this particular brand and type of relay in industrial apps and they are nearly bomb proof. Used them as controls on a conveyor feed system and the original units were running man y years after the install.

I just want to tailor the stove to my needs. All sorts of extra knobs.bells and whistles is just a problem waiting to happen around here.

If all that is needed is to light the thing, turn on the fuel feed and then basically walk away it will not get screwed up.

The nut shells have a very small burn window especially on the low side.

If too much fuel is fed in the stuff tends to pile up before it can burn up and this causes issues too.

I can mess with any setting and adjust the draft setting (manual rod) and get things perfect on most feed rates.
Keeping this simple so other family members can run it and not have problems is the big thing.

With the fuel feeding at 1.5 seconds and off for 5 seconds is almost pefect. The stove does not need any other adjustments at that point.

Having a fully adjustable room air fan is just an issue waiting to happen.

The exhaust blower is running in the sweet spot and having more adjustments is just more things to go sour or get messed up.

My feeling is that extra knobs are just something more for someone to turn when they dont need to.

I am the one that has to figure out why the TV is not working when someone pushes too many buttons on the remote and has not a clue what they did.



Now as far as a commercially sold pellet stove for public consumption I agree with you 100%.

Keep it simple, yet offer controls that are basically idiot proof.

I will never set the blower speed other than to the sweet spot, so why leave a knob for someone to screw with.

The old Earth Stove pellet stove we had saw the blower on one setting for 17 years.
Either on or off is all it was ever used on.

The nut shells do not work well on very low settings as the stuff tends to burn up too quick and if you are running on the ragged edge the fire can go out.

Basically this is a custom setup for my application the same as the mods to the firepot.

It would work with pellets but is better suited to the shells.


Snowy
 
Doc
Thanks for posting the PDF files.

Snowy
 
Snowy,

Very interesting adventure! I will be watching and learning from your experience.

Hopefully your sticking with the factory safety switches(not sure what the 2T has)?

Even some of these brand new high tech tin cans have lack luster control interfaces. Some are not much more than an on/off switch. The best I have seen is the Bixby! You can interface it with a PC. Change just about any thing on the stove. Someday I might adapt one to my Omega. But that's only just thinking out loud. To many obstacles to hurdle. But it would be killer!
 
Safety is Job 1 and first priority.

I am replacing the High temp (overfire) cutouts with ones that must be reset if the pop open.

(Better than factory)

A stack overtemp snap disc (manual reset type) never available.

The stock low temp switch will be retained.

The addition of a fire box depression sensor to shut the feed off if the door is opened or the draft fan quits.

Oh yess I want better than original and better safety features.

This will be a simple afternoons work to wire in and get up and running.

Once I get all the part numbers down for the job, its just a matter of ordering the parts.

I will likely use the vacuum sensor from a Quad (neg pressure stove) to sense the firebox/draft pressure.

My little Prodigy has a mechanical switch that stops the feed and the room blower if the door is opened.

Good idea me thinks.



I just did niot want to spend the $$$$$$$ on spendy control board that may or may not give me what I want.

I am not a great lover of the magic boxes that cost much and fail often.

Been an Auto tech for years and fought with far too many electronics issues in cars/trucks.

Some stuff is fine but the more complex it is the better the guarantee that it will fail.

The old simple relay systems were pretty fool proof. they lasted too.


I will keep things updated as it gets going.

The fire season is almost over so there is a lots to do around here.

Snowy
 
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