Cutting, Splitting, Drying Storm Fallen Trees

[bryankloos]

Hey Guys,

I'm learning all too well about the need for dry wood. I was burning a stack of mixed hards left from the previous owner and I had great heat output from my PE summit. I then moved to some older well seasoned but punky and wetter maple lying around at my fathers house and I thought the stove was malfunction... Threw a few of the last previous owner splits in the stove and the heat magically returned. I'm now down to burning wood from a supplier this year which is okay but far from great. Lesson learned.

My father has some larger Maples and Hickory that is downed at his house from Sandy. I plan to cut and split it next spring in hopes it will be ready for 2014-2015. I figure he has about three cords of good wood and a bunch of extra smaller logs/branches. Does this seem feasible or will the drying time not be sufficient.

Additionally, I have about 1.5 cords of white oak cut into rounds. I also plan to split this next spring in hopes to burn 2014-2015. Do you think this will be ready or will I need to save that for the following year.

Lastly, I purchased a moisture meter which states the wood I am currently burning is ~15% but I am skeptical. Is there a trick to getting accurate measurements from these meters?

Thanks!

Bryan

 

[Jon1270]

Maple, especially soft maple, dries quickly and stands a good chance of being dry for next winter. I have little experience with hickory, but you might get lucky. Split the oak soon, but don't bank on its being ready next year.

A shallow layer on the outside of a split dries out quickly. To get a meaningful reading, you'll need to re-split a piece and check the MC of the freshly exposed interior surface. You should also know that meters are typically calibrated for Douglas fir at 70 degrees F; if the wood is cold, it will read lower than it actually is. Different species can throw the meter off in either direction.

 

[BobUrban]

Why wait until next spring? Get it cut and split now and find some more to cut next spring. 1. you will be more certain the maple will be ready to go for next burn season and 2.you can start year 3 stacks in the spring.

 

[Kenster]

You're going to need much more time on the oak, once it's split and stacked. Typically three years.

Re split a old split and put the probes of the moisture meter into the freshly exposed face. The two prongs go in line with the grain.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Hey Guys,

I'm learning all too well about the need for dry wood. I was burning a stack of mixed hards left from the previous owner and I had great heat output from my PE summit. I then moved to some older well seasoned but punky and wetter maple lying around at my fathers house and I thought the stove was malfunction... Threw a few of the last previous owner splits in the stove and the heat magically returned. I'm now down to burning wood from a supplier this year which is okay but far from great. Lesson learned.

My father has some larger Maples and Hickory that is downed at his house from Sandy. I plan to cut and split it next spring in hopes it will be ready for 2014-2015. I figure he has about three cords of good wood and a bunch of extra smaller logs/branches. Does this seem feasible or will the drying time not be sufficient.

Additionally, I have about 1.5 cords of white oak cut into rounds. I also plan to split this next spring in hopes to burn 2014-2015. Do you think this will be ready or will I need to save that for the following year.

Lastly, I purchased a moisture meter which states the wood I am currently burning is ~15% but I am skeptical. Is there a trick to getting accurate measurements from these meters?

Thanks!

Bryan

Bryan, we feel your pain. Hopefully it is short lived.

On those trees that came down after Sandy. Don't figure that they have dried much at all. Get those bucked up and split as soon as you can possibly do it. The key to drying wood is to get it split then stack it in the wind. If you wait until next spring, you will be losing a lot of drying time. In addition, one never knows what might happen between now and spring. I've learned many moons ago that when I put off something, it usually turns out bad. Do it when you can!

On the white oak, figure 3 years of drying time after being split and stacked. For sure it will not be ready a year from now. As for the MM, I have no use nor any need for one. Too many times I've seen people fooled by them. I simply ask, why not get yourself into a position where you don't have to wonder if your wood is ready to burn? Get on the 3 year plan and all will be well. That is, 3 years ahead at all times.

 

[Hills Hoard]

Having moved into my first house that has a wood heater about 3 years ago, I know exactly where you are coming from. Depending the the wood you have access to, it can take a few years to get ahead with wood that's ready to burn...