Cutting through radiant ceiling heat?

[Elbinwyp]

I am looking to install a new stove in the 1900 farm house we just moved into. I have a spot picked out on the first floor that fits the layout perfectly. I am planning on having the stove installed by a professional but have not had him out to look at the project. I want to make sure I understand the install prior to discussing it with him. I have one main concern... all of our ceilings have coils snaked through them for our radiant ceiling electric heat (which is currently breaking my wallet!!).
I was hoping to run my chimney through the 2nd story and attic due to the best possible draft and the location of the stove. Is dealing with the ceiling coils not worth the hassle? Should I move the location and run the pipe out the side of the house? Has anyone had experience with cutting through these? I would prefer to leave the electric system still functional in the event we travel and need to have heat ( I also think the insurance company requires a backup system).

Thanks! Also, I am holding out for Woodstock's Ideal Steel, so this install will be after this heating season.

 

[xtrordinair]

if you plan on trying to keep the coils in operation plan on having to repair the ones that get cut during the install.You might be able to break the plaster enough in that area to expose the wires and move them away but keep in mind, a much larger area will have to be damaged to have any chance at making that work.in my opinion it aint worth the trouble with the stove in that room .

 

[begreen]

Could be tricky but the wire is usually laid out in logical loops. A wiring or metal detector may help map out them.

 

[xtrordinair]

laid out in logical loops

exactly how almost all i have seen were done ...good point

 

[Elbinwyp]

I just talked with a buddy who has IR camera. I am going to try to get a picture of the elements lit up and see if the install is realistic.

 

[Premier Fireplace MI]

I would look into running the chimney on the outside of the home. There is some nice class a on the market. And the right installer can make it look clean. It will ad to the cost however I believe it's going to be cheaper than through the home.

 

[mepellet]

Here I was thinking someone else had a ceiling hydronic radiant heat system.... Man that crap is tough to cut through. It was all disconnected prior to us purchasing the house and so far we have had to cut two holes through it, one for a bathroom exhaust and and one for the chimney. I probably have thousands of dollars worth of copper in my ceilings. That piping is the thickest wall copper I have ever seen.

 

[madison]

Just had electrical radiant installed in a master bath remodel, it was a "plastic mat" with the electrical wires held in position by the mat, IMHO the spacing of the wires in the mat would not permit enough space for your chimney and clearances. I would be extremely surprised if it is permissible or even possible to cut and resplice the heating wire.

Looks like the decision is to D/C the radiant heat in that ceiling vs exterior wall.

 

[firefighterjake]

Here I was thinking someone else had a ceiling hydronic radiant heat system.... Man that crap is tough to cut through. It was all disconnected prior to us purchasing the house and so far we have had to cut two holes through it, one for a bathroom exhaust and and one for the chimney. I probably have thousands of dollars worth of copper in my ceilings. That piping is the thickest wall copper I have ever seen.

No problem . . . next time you want it and the ceiling removed . . . you just have to find the town's low lifes and let them know about all that copper in the ceiling and tell them when you'll be gone for a day or two . . . and then when you come home . . . voila . . . the ceiling and copper are gone . . . along with all the electrical wiring in the walls, copper plumbing, etc.

 

[firefighterjake]

I understand about the location of the stove . . . but as for the draft . . . many of us have chimneys consisting of insulated Class A that run alongside the outside of the house. I was concerned about the potential draft issue, loss of heat, etc. but honestly other than early spring and late fall (when typically all I need to do is open a nearby window a crack) the drafting issue has not been a problem. As mentioned, Class A is more expensive and depending on your styling tastes some folks may not like the look of the exposed metal and may want to build a wooden chase around it.