damper for Hearthstone Heritage?

[strawman]

Howdy, I'm soon to take delivery of my Heritage . I saw a recent post about plans to install a damper in the stovepipe of a heritage. I talked to my dealer and he didn't think it was necessary for me and they can have a negative effect also. My pipe will go up 2 feet, 90 over 3 feet to a masonry chimney ( 7" flue liner) then up approx 14 feet. My previous stove had no draft issues. The only difference is the piping off the stove will be 6" dbl wall whereas it was 8" sngl wall with the last stove. I could put a damper in later if needed, but I can have it done at install as the adapter that comes off the stove can come with a damper in it for just a couple more bucks. I guess I'm looking at an additional way to slow down the burn if want to or just leave it open all the time. Any reasons not to put one in? Any experiences or thoughts on this would be great. Thankx

 

[Highbeam]

It was me that failed to install a damper. Sounds like you are going to try and do it with a double wall stovepipe adapter available both with and without a damper. That didn't work for me. You'll love the heritage with or without a damper. See if you can have them install a probe thermometer in the flue.

 

[strawman]

Highbeam, you stated "that didn't work for me" I don't understand. You tried the stove adapter w/damper and it didn't work? I'll check on that probe and consider the tee thankx

 

[wendell]

If you are only going up a total of 16 feet, you will not need a damper.

 

[Todd]

I don't think you will need one either.

I wonder what would be better for an overdrafting non cat stove, a pipe damper or just modify the air intake slide so it closes down more?

 

[edthedawg]

First off, I'm a damper-usin' Heritage owner Wouldn't think of using my stove w/out it.

But for you short run, you probably don't NEED one. Might be nice to have, but I'd really like to think you're ok w/ only 14 feet pulling on it. I have over 20 more than that above my T (out the back) and I can't live w/out the damper. flue probe thermometer is a way better tool for you, IMO. I would certainly support "get it anyways, even if you won't use it" so long as you can expect the extra cleaning effort to be worth it.

 

[strawman]

Appreciate all the feedback. I've been burning a long time but there have been lots of changes since I last bought a stove. Nice to be able to learn from others experiences. Good and bad. I'm sure there is going to be some head-scratchin' with this soapstone stove. This site and forum will be very useful. Thankx, strawman

 

[Highbeam]

Highbeam, you stated "that didn't work for me" I don't understand. You tried the stove adapter w/damper and it didn't work? I'll check on that probe and consider the tee thankx

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/41480/

This is the thread where MSG helped me realize that you can't put an appliance adpater on a heritage. The simpson adapter doesn't fit the heritage. These double wall pipe systems are high quality and make great seals when they are used properly.

 

[strawman]

HB, sorry to hear you've had such a hassle with your damper project. I didn't ask but I assume the adapter with damper the dealer is offering me is specifically for the Heritage and will fit well. I'll certainly check that out. Thankx
The concensious here is I probably don't need a damper. I would tend to agree, however, if the difference in cost is so little , I'm thinking get the adapter with the damper, remove the damper, put screws in the holes, start without the damper and if I feel I need or want to try one, I,m good to go without drilling, fitting, etc.

 

[Highbeam]

I don't think that there is a heritage specific damper section. Instead I suspect that your installer will do some custom cutting and stretching to get a decent seal or he will just leave it loose, it would be nice to keep an eye on him. Know that the plain end of the double wall fits really nice and tight with an excellent seal that won't leak. MSG suggested in that other thread that you install the damper in a regular section of double wall, maybe he'll do that.

I'm with you on the damper but I wouldn't temporarily remove it. Just leave it in there and use it as intended. I don't think you will need it, I do think that you will want it. Maybe that's the difference between regular wood burners and the wood burning enthusiasts that we are.

With or without a damper, the appliance adapter won't fit our stove as delivered from Simpson. This is the most important part.

 

[strawman]

[

quote author="Highbeam" date="1253821969"]I don't think that there is a heritage specific damper section. Instead I suspect that your installer will do some custom cutting and stretching to get a decent seal or he will just leave it loose, it would be nice to keep an eye on him. Know that the plain end of the double wall fits really nice and tight with an excellent seal that won't leak. MSG suggested in that other thread that you install the damper in a regular section of double wall, maybe he'll do that.

Think I'll head to the stove shop and have them bring me up to speed on their install methods and see how things fit before they deliver. Especially the stove adapter issue. Appreciate all the heads-up from everyone. Thankx

 

[Todd]

I don't think you will need one either.

I wonder what would be better for an overdrafting non cat stove, a pipe damper or just modify the air intake slide so it closes down more?

modifications are no-no per ul listing= ul never tested the modification. better is dependent on specific circumstance & observable results.
imagine a hot stove which is closed airtight. hot gasses will still drive out thru chimni. nature abhorrs a vacuum so the chimni develops a circular air movement within to compensate for the vacuum. the closed damper will interfere with the circular airflow & increase the heatloss at damper location thru localized turbulence at the damper thus cooling the exhaust of the stove & diminishing the draft. without the damper the heatloss from localized turbulence wouldnt be there

I remember John Gulland talking about this in that Florida bungalow syndrom thingy. It may be against UL but stoves are tested with a certain chimney height usually around 15'. So a non cat stove is pretty much tuned in at that tested height. If the chimney is 20-30' why not close the air down more to compensate for the increased pull of combustion air and draft? I'm not saying shut her down tight, just enough to maintain a proper fire and control runaway. A pipe damper may do the same but it won't kill the fire if you needed to in case of overfire or worse yet a chimney fire.

 

[begreen]

I don't think you will need one either.

I wonder what would be better for an overdrafting non cat stove, a pipe damper or just modify the air intake slide so it closes down more?

modifications are no-no per ul listing= ul never tested the modification. better is dependent on specific circumstance & observable results.
imagine a hot stove which is closed airtight. hot gasses will still drive out thru chimni. nature abhorrs a vacuum so the chimni develops a circular air movement within to compensate for the vacuum. the closed damper will interfere with the circular airflow & increase the heatloss at damper location thru localized turbulence at the damper thus cooling the exhaust of the stove & diminishing the draft. without the damper the heatloss from localized turbulence wouldnt be there

Increased heat loss at the damper is to the room, no? Sounds almost like a simplified magic heat. Maybe not so bad after all?