The earlier burns in my old VC Defiant had the ability to overheat the stove, at least by the flu thermometer. I had to monitor the air inlet and keep it somewhere South of wide open. A month later, I had a couple of warm days in a row, and a gasket kit for the doors, so away I went cleaning and replacing the 3 door gaskets. Now I find the air inlet is wide open all the time and the burns are on the cooler side. Best I can figure is the stove has bad seals where the walls meet the top (I know this is true by seeing smoke coming from those spots when the door is wide open) and those points are drawing air into the stove where it is added to exhaust and going up the pipe. I believe if I seal those spots the additional draw through the air inlet will turn to combustion and thus heat. Right track or not?
Did I kill some of the combustible draft by fixing the stove?
- Thread starter mywaynow
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
Fsappo
Minister of Fire
If that stove is assembled with parts then you are exactly correct. When you go look at the cast iron stoves that are new you can see the joints are put together with the furnace cement stuff to seal them. You would do yourself a favor to look at the inside of a new version of your stove. I do know the Jotul stoves are sealed up tight when newly assembled. Yours may be able to be taken apart and rebuilt with the furnace cement to seal the seams. Why not paint it while your at it? 
zzr7ky
Minister of Fire
- Jun 12, 2006
- 1,053
Hi - I have a similar set up.
I used a thin bladed screw driver to tuck a length of fiberglass gasket material up along the seam at underside of the stove top. I also replaced the door gaskets at the same time.
It helped increase the duration of longer, slower burns. Stove will still do serious heat if air is opened up some.
I used a thin bladed screw driver to tuck a length of fiberglass gasket material up along the seam at underside of the stove top. I also replaced the door gaskets at the same time.
It helped increase the duration of longer, slower burns. Stove will still do serious heat if air is opened up some.
your stv is rebuildable, has to be taken apart- summer project. My shop used to do about 75 VC rebuild per summer. If done right your stove will be like the day it left the factory.
Fsappo
Minister of Fire
humpin iron said:
I would have loved to work in your shop. I probably have done less than 75 in my whole life, but I miss those days dearly.
remkel
Minister of Fire
Same response as everyone ahead of me- sounds like the stove needs a good rebuild over the summer. Good project to take on in the slow hazy, lazy days of summer.
Have all intention on a rebuild over the summer. The fireback is cracked and warped to some extent. I intend also on making a better version of the reburn screen for the rear compartment of the stove. What do you think about painting the stove something other than the flat black? It is not a major issue for sure, the stove is in the basement. Would like to see it hunter green though.
- Status
Similar threads
