The stove burned well all night last night. I get up this morning, go check on it and its all good. About 45 minutes ago, I go downstairs and the pot is full, the fire is lazy and rolling again. Please help me guys. It burned all day yesterday, all night last night with no problem. If it was a draft issue, would it run that well, that long and then mess up? It cant be the exhaust at all, because if it was then the pressure switch would trip and the auger would stop feeding. Please guys, I'm about to take this POS back and get a refund and just give up on it. I readjusted my damper and its about 1" open.
Did It Again!!!!
- Thread starter 1BadTitan
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jtakeman
Minister of Fire
hearthtools
Moderator Emeritus
ya Im thinking poor quality pellets.jtakeman said:
you are going to have to clean your burn pot once a day.
also if you are using a thermostat and the stove is cycling off and on many times a day you will have even more clinkers in the burn pot if the stove just stayed running.
take it back and get a refund??
Im not sure but I thought the Profile 30 has not been made in a few years. that stove cost Lennox Many many dealers including my self because it was such a problem child.
I'm with hearthtools on this one. The "Ultragrate" is a picky slave driver. YOu gettin hard clinckers building up in the burnpot? Once those things start to get dirty its a pretty quick downhill run. I also thought they had stopped production on that a few years back but have heard about others with a "new" Profile model.
I cleaned the burn pot last night before bed. I scrape it daily... I'm using Linetics pellets. I can handle cleaning the pot daily. How often should I be dumping to the ash pan? The profile has a slide gate that drops the pellets, should I clean that multiple times a day or what?
hearthtools
Moderator Emeritus
1BadTitan said:
Pellets change from batch to batch.
we had reports from customers of excess clinkers at the bottom of the pot with LAST years Legnetics this year I have not seen any problems.
Now that I dont sell pellets anymore most on my customers are getting Legnetics from True Value.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Your stove isn't moving enough air through it for what ever reason (combustion fan not up to speed because of bad motor, or off spec voltage, or back pressure, and a million other reasons).
Over time the ash that isn't blown out of the burn pot will block off most of the incoming air causing the pot to overflow. This is a rapidly escalating situation when it starts, in other words look away for a hour or a few minutes and poof it goes from fine to dragon fire in the ash pan.
I suggest you remove the horizontal cap on your exhaust system. I have no idea as to the construction of the cap you have, it is possible that it is acting like a 90 degree bend which would put your EVL over limit for 3" pipe.
Over time the ash that isn't blown out of the burn pot will block off most of the incoming air causing the pot to overflow. This is a rapidly escalating situation when it starts, in other words look away for a hour or a few minutes and poof it goes from fine to dragon fire in the ash pan.
I suggest you remove the horizontal cap on your exhaust system. I have no idea as to the construction of the cap you have, it is possible that it is acting like a 90 degree bend which would put your EVL over limit for 3" pipe.
hearthtools said:
I just got this ton from true value... It was outside in shrink wrap, but who knows how long its been sitting there.
1BadTitan said:
EVL ratings:
1' straight vertical pipe = .5 EVL
1' " horizontal = 1.0
45 degree elbow = 2.5
90 " " = 5.0
Any exhaust setup that adds up to more than 15 EVL requires the use of 4" pipe.
My end cap is an adjustable pitch horizontal cap. Its on such an axis that I can rotate it so it points straight out or I can rotate it 180* to be a straight out exit. Is there a problem with directing it straight out horzontal? It has a screen to deter animals from getting in. Maybe a slight pitch down for rain, maybe like 15* or so?
Have you checked the screen to make sure it's not mucked up
with fly ash and junk. I'm not sure if I'd want a screen on the
flue exhaust.
with fly ash and junk. I'm not sure if I'd want a screen on the
flue exhaust.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
1BadTitan said:
90 degree bend EVL = 5
45 degree bend EVL = 3
1 foot horizontal run = 1
1 foot vertical run = .5
Note a Tee is a 90 degree bend, and depending on the your end cap that also can be a 90 degree bend.
Add them up and if it exceeds 15 you need 4" pipe or you need to remove a bend or bends.
This is a proxy for the amount of back pressure that the combustion fan sees. The fan must be able to overcome the back pressure in order to draw air through the system.
These stoves all require a good puffer and the least resistance to air flow consistent with being able to properly expel exhaust gases even when the combustion fan fails.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
In all cases you are aiming to keep the rate of ash removal above the rate of ash production.
I'd angle that cap downward slightly to keep the rain out, the mesh needs to be clean, I'd even remove it when you are using the stove 24/7 and reinstall it after you are through running the stove all of the time.
For the purposes of testing you can just remove the cap.
The other way of keeping up with ash issues is to go to a lower ash pellet.
I'd angle that cap downward slightly to keep the rain out, the mesh needs to be clean, I'd even remove it when you are using the stove 24/7 and reinstall it after you are through running the stove all of the time.
For the purposes of testing you can just remove the cap.
The other way of keeping up with ash issues is to go to a lower ash pellet.
schmeg
Member
Coming from a non-pro, if I had this problem, I would clean the stove, and try a bag or two of different pellets to eliminate that variable first.
A friend of mine is burning off a ton of bad Corinths as we speak. They are doing the same thing to his Quad. No doubt, once combustion air is compromised,
it doesn't take long.
A friend of mine is burning off a ton of bad Corinths as we speak. They are doing the same thing to his Quad. No doubt, once combustion air is compromised,
it doesn't take long.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
schmeg said:
I'd normally agree with this, except in this case it is possible that the installation is part of the issue. I'm counting an EVL of 15 using just the T, 90 degree out and his end cap.
Your right... My "EVL" is 17.5 with all my pipe work. I straightened out the end cap, now I'm at 12.5 That should be good now, right?
Its not really a screen, Its more like a tic tac toe board made out of coat hanger gauge wire. Its more to block animals from crawling into it.cantman said:
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
1BadTitan said:
It still blocks air flow a bit.
The only way to know is to burn some pellets, remember, those pellet should be doing the shuffle in your burn pot and using your damper you should be able to vary the flame and the dance.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
1BadTitan said:
Then you want the pellets dancing energetically but not poping out of the pot and blue tints at the base of the flame. This should also result in showers of sparks.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
1BadTitan,
Here is a link to exactly what you want to see.
http://www.lennoxhearthproducts.com/owners/airdamper.asp
Here is a link to exactly what you want to see.
http://www.lennoxhearthproducts.com/owners/airdamper.asp
Hmmm, it desnt have that much energy. When its burning high, I pull the damper wide open and it looks that way for a few seconds and gets a little taller and slightly lazier. I think I just need to go with 4" pipe. Thats about a $700 mistake. $300 for the pipe I have now and $400 for the new run. that sucks.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Talk to the Lennox folks and see what they have to say, there may be an adjustment that can be made to the exhaust blower. There are differences in line voltages. Have you had the combustion fan out and looked at the fins.
BTW is your stove new?
BTW is your stove new?
hearthtools
Moderator Emeritus
you never did describe your pipe run1BadTitan said:
im not chastising you im just saying this for the next guy to learn
If it is because of your pipe set up
ALWAYS READ THE MANUAL FIRST
But not unless you have over 20 feet of pipe I dont think pipe run is your problem.
could be as simple as door leak.
Weak blower
Poor voltage to the blower
If it were me I would be checking everything before I swaped out the pipe.
you said this was a new stove but who knows something could be in the exhaust chamber
take the combustion blower off and look and feel behind it.
Just like I had on the new stove I posted about with the Rat/mouse making a home out of the koawool planked inside the exhaust chamber
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