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Posted By woodmiser,
Nov 19, 2011 at 10:06 PM
The sticker still says 1512A on device but documentation that came with device says 1512A2.
Just checked the manual on mine, says SYL-1512A1, no alarm mute button.
Looks like I have the old one and you have the new one.
That's funny, they did the same to me. I thought for sure I messed up on my order. But when I looked, it was their wrong pick.
So far Auber customer service has been good. I emailed them about the error last night and they emailed me this morning that they are shipping one out.
Have you considered using an on-delay timer instead of a relay? This would allow the temp to trigger the temp control output act as a debounce feature for instance if you used a time delay of 1 minute it would not trigger the alarm until the output from the temp control went high for 1 solid minute and this would reduce nuisance alarms.. If you really want to take it to the next level buy a $135.00 PLC such as this one http://tinyurl.com/cp4j5c3 .. The programming software is free as long as your program is small and allows flexibility to change things easily once the I/O is wired.. Overall I am impressed with what you've guys have done so far..
I sent an email to them the other night. Glad to hear they've gotten back to you and are sending out a replacement.
I probably won't mess with the direct fan control option until my Lopi electrical component warranty expires next year.
Do you think it will be fairly easy to override the rheostat for full speed fan control that activates during an over-fire scenario? I still want to be able to use the variable fan control as well.
I haven't taken the fan off to look at it yet but that would be a good way to have it set up.
I don't think a time delay would be the best approach. On a cold start with dry kindling you might be surprised how fast flue temp can rise, when the alarm goes off you really need to turn down the air right away. Waiting for a minute, the flue temp may increase by several hundred degrees. Nuance alarms really are not a problem. You just need to acknowledge the alarm and turn it off while you close the air and let the temp go down.
Your right the Automation Direct PLC are nice, I have worked with them in the past. I sold one on Ebay some years ago, I am wishing I would have kept it. It would have been just the the ticket for automating the air control.
I don't think it would be too difficult. On my stove I have only have a switch for hi and low speed.
I wired my stove top controller to turn the fan on hi at 675 Â°F . Otherwise generally don't use the fan.
On my stove it was pretty simple to wire.
I got the correct 120V buzzer earlier in the week.
How are most mounting that? I was thinking of making some kind of bracket but short term might just just a zip tie or use some good old black electrical tape.
outy=2 seems to work fine. I might just leave it there. Maybe I will need to change if I add an additional relay to drive the high speed fan setting on the rheostat?
I just got my right buzzer today! Hooked it up and tried it... Light flashes, but no sound?!? Any ideas?!?
Sounds like it is defective. It either works or not. I'd email this address---> email@example.com
They were quick to respond after I let them them know that I received an incorrect buzzer.
Thanks! I was going to send them something. But thought I'd see if I did something wrong through here first. ;-)
My buzzer is wired up as follows:
â€¢ 2 wired to 4
â€¢ 5 wired to buzzer
â€¢ other wire from buzzer wired to 1
Treacherous, yup... Same wiring!
Looks like my thermocouple is actually reading low by about 75 degrees. Anyone tweaked theirs yet?
Why do you think it is low? Are you checking it with an IR thermometer?
It may be that the magnetic thermocouple just needs to catch up with the stove top.
I have checked mine with a hand held surface probe and another temp monitor and it is always pretty close.
Yeah... I am checking with my IR thermometer. This has been the first chance I have gotten to test on the wood stove. The other test was on my home's gas fireplace but I didn't have the IR gun there to test with. I've been burning since about 9AM today. It's been pretty consistent and is touching stove as well as it can. It is directly contacting it on the head of the probe.
Which thermocouple are you using? Yours looks different and seems like it would make a better contact with a flat surface. I think you posted a parts list. I'll look for that as well.
The thermocouple I am using comes in from the top of the magnet so I can protect the wiring since someone said there was a 500 degree limit. Is the wiring on yours protected above 500 degrees? My current reading is fairly accurate I just need to tweak the display somehow (if possible) to read the true temperature of 75 degrees higher.
I am using this one #WTCK-160 from here: http://www.ppe.com/11cat/0657.pdf
My wire touches the very edge of the stove, does not seem to be a problem.
If you are worried about the heat the same company has hi temp fiberglass sleeving, they say is is good to 1000 Â°F look at # ST-2. http://www.ppe.com/11cat/0744.pdf
If you are sure you controller is reading low you can program an input offset.
It is PSb on the config menu.
Keep in mind that as soon as you get away from the stove, even a inch, temp drops dramatically so say your stove top metal is 600Â°... the air an inch above is much cooler. Your thermocouple wire should be fine. Not only that, my wire is in the path of the blower air.
The PSb tweak did the trick. Now it is accurate.
I got paranoid and added a little extra stack.