direct connect kit?

[firebuckeye]

Hey everyone. Heres the deal I had a wood burning fireplace w/a reline done 3 years ago. Since it was an open fire place the stainless liner stops basically where the tile would of. If that makes sense??? Its rectangular. Its inside dimensions is 5 1/2" x 10 1/2 " as near as I can tell. So how do I connect my 6" stove outlet to the previous stainless liner. Do they make a fullliner that would fit in there? Do I do a direct connect? I believe the 5 1/2 x 10 1/2 is equivalent to 8" round. Not sure though. I feel as if I did not explain well but I am not sure how to. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Brad

 

[kevinmoelk]

Well, I'm no chimney expert but I'll tell you what my friend said after looking at my old set up. My friend has good experience and used to install woodstoves for a living many years ago. My old set up was just as you describe a 6" stove going into an 8" chimney (or was it 10"?). This came with the house by the way.

Now, there were many other problems with the chimney. However I recall him commenting that the chimney must be sized to the stove for proper draft and control of the stove. I'm not sure if there is any danger involved, and I'm not sure there is an adapter, but certainly one could be fashioned. But, if you're going to have a wood stove why not have it be matched to the chimney? Why not be as efficient as possible?

Seems common sense to me to rip the old set up out and install the proper chimney. My 2 cents.

Others smarter than myself should chime in soon.

-Kevin

 

[firebuckeye]

Ripping it out does make sense but it looks to be mortored in there. Not sure if that is possible. I wonder what the dimensions of an oval 6" liner would be? would it get down a rectangle 5 1/2 x 10 1/2 " stainless liner? Could some one tell me the width and length of an oval flex 6" liner?

Thanks
Brad

 

[Rhone]

Oval flex liners that work with 6" stoves are 4.5" x 10.375" and incredibly expensive, they don't bend well for shipping. Here's a link that has a flexible oval liner to replace a 6" round
http://www.hartshearth.com/productcart/pc/viewCat_m.asp?idCategory=502

This one's by the foot, at $51.59 per
http://www.hartshearth.com/productcart/pc/viewCat_m.asp?idCategory=122

 

[firebuckeye]

I talked to a chimney guy and he said he could put an adapter to fit up in reline, sort of like direct connect but a closer fit. he said it would just be pushed up in there and there was no way to fasten the 2 pieces together because he was unable to drop liner down any. Is this good enough, just pushed up in there? Seems like a lot of money and it still would not be 100 percent the best way to do it. He said 600.00 to do that. He said the rectangle to 8" round was expensive and then the 8" to 6" was also expensive. I may look at a second opinion. Any other ideas?

 

[pgmr]

You'd probably get creosote running down the outside of the stove pipe if it went inside the existing liner. I'd rip out the existing and reline direct to the stove.

 

[firebuckeye]

Could anyone advise how I might start ripping the old out? Or is this for a professional only.

 

[elkimmeg]

The only times I have seen your simmilar setup with the liner as you describe, is to replaced the original damaged liner usually due to a chimney fire. Possibly lighting strike?

A fireplace liner may not be HT 2100 required for wood stoves. Do you have any info on that original liner? Why is it there, instead of the clay liners? If a prior chimney fire or lighting strike, what is the structual integerity of that chimney?

All these questions need answers to advise you about possible options or solutions. IS it an exterior exposed chimney? how old?how tall ? Does it have more than one flue?

 

[firebuckeye]

Thanks so far.... The home was built in 1947 so 60 year old chimney. Exterior, approx 20-25 feet tall. It has 2 flues, one for furnace and one for chimney. When I bought home the inspection failed. It was just a fireplace, No appliance or stove installed. Inspector stated that there was mortar missing in some of the joints. i forget the original size, I think it was something like 8 x 13. Well the fix was a klifetime warranty stainless liner. It is 5.5" x 10.5" Like I said it was just an open fireplace so there is no connection hanging down. Its flush with first flue tile. Also not sure if it 2100 but a chimney sweep that looked at it said it was best there is, if that means anything. I know it could mean nothing but he seemed to think it was a good setup, atleast for an open fireplace.

 

[elkimmeg]

Lets assume it is HT 2100 you also have a cross-sectional issue and the exterior location. this is me thinking the cross-sectional issue goes away witha stove using an 8"oval connector
You would probably have to cut most of you damper out but you could direct connect with the 8" ovasl flue liner int 2" into the existing metal liner providing you make a damper block of plate and seal it good. It would be real hard to fit a liner in there for the 6" flue collar ans mentioned Oval liners are acceptable but but expensive. I can look up what a starter 8' oval liner cost if you wish

 

[firebuckeye]

Let me see if I understand you. Basically use an 8" direct connect kit and damper block off plate. Then just reduce the 8" to 6" stove outlet. How tight would that fit up in existing flue? Would I have to take it apart to clean each time I did a chimney clean? Is there a connector that would be a perfect fit into the existing rectangle flue liner? I dont know if the 8" would fit in the flue liner would it? Thanks for your patience so far. I was thinking I could do this but even if I cant I want to be informed so it gets done the right way and not just the easy way.

 

[firebuckeye]

Wondering if the 8" direct connect would fit in existing flue. Anyone now outside dimensions of the 8" where its ovalized?

 

[elkimmeg]

You can direct connect with a stove having an 8" flue collar that solves the cross sectional code issue. You can't use 6" to 8" then direct connect int that large of a flue area.
a 6" flue collar applaince would require a full liner to be code compliant in your case an expensive oval liner

I measures my Encore 8" oval flue collar it is 10.25 bu 5.25".

Im talking about Code compliance
In all probability you local inspector may not be clued into the 2003 NFPA 211 admendments and allow an ovalized direct connect from a 6" flue collar stove
IT his final say as to what he will accept and his signature you need. Call him describe your situation see ask him if direct connection is ok with a decent blockoff plate?
Yours does exceed the crosssectional Code but less than 8/12 Masonry ones and It may draft ok. It may never achieve optimal draft but if you are ok with just being ok
that's your choice whhich may be the only logical choice you have

 

[firebuckeye]

thanks so much. One last thought. I found an oval liner to do a full reline. Its 22-25 dollars a foot and shipping included. Chim-flex or ventinox. Both similar. I can ovalize a 6" and it should fit. My question is going from 28 square inches area for round down to 24 square inches, if I ovalize it down to 9.3"x4", is that going to cause a draft problem. Its only 4 square inches or 15% reduction. The dealer said no it shouldnt cause a problem. And dealer also said insulation is rarely sold with them. I would then be 6" all the way from stove to chimney top. Seems this would be way to do it and about 600 dollars for everything. I would appreciate a little more help on this but again thanks so far.