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Do I need to take a Jotul 12 apart to install the interior burn plate?

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by deedee13, Jan 21, 2013.

  1. deedee13

    deedee13 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2013
    Messages:
    1
    Hello Folks - My husband and I bought a used Jotul firelight 12 for $1000 two years ago off craigslist and we love it! (It's the top and front load model, with the foot pedal). Last week, we ordered the 2 interior burn plates which were getting warped and starting to crack. We took the front plate out no problem - it's the one with the design on it that looks like an eye. The one behind that, which surrounds the catalytic converter chamber, was a bit harder to remove but, being warped, we were able to wrench it out. I just picked up the 2 new parts and wanted to surprise my husband by installing them before he got home. I just spent 20 min trying to get the interior plate into the stove through the front and top openings. It does not fit. It is the correct part and is the exact size of the one we pulled out of there. I am starting to think we need to pull the entire back off the stove to get it in. Has anyone done this before? All advice is welcome.

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  2. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    48,101
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    paging joful. 12 rebuild at the front desk.
  3. Joful

    Joful Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Messages:
    6,354
    Loc:
    Philadelphia
    Don't pull the back off! You will seriously regret that. The secret is... pull the top off! It's much easier than it sounds, as it's only held with two bolts, and gasketed (not cemented) in place.

    First, open the top load door, and make sure it's supported against something (stove pipe?) so it can't flop over backwards. Remove the two philips head screws holding the door raising lever in place, and carefully set the door back down. Be sure that door does NOT flip over backwards, or the hinges will likely snap off.

    Remove the andirons to have them out of your way, then pull out the inner burn plates on either side of the stove. They just lift out thru the front doors.

    Stick your head in the stove and look up at the top. You'll see a large bolt on either side, going up into the top. Remove them. Get yourself a blanket or something to set on the floor, so you're not fumbling for it with the top in your hands. When you get that ready, just lift the top off, and set it down on the floor. It's not heavy for a guy, but according to my wife, I'm a real bad judge of what's too heavy for her. Just whatever you do... make sure that top load door stays down!

    Now you'll be able to lift out the old burn plate (although I guess you already did that), and install the new burn plate, easy peasy. You'll want to put a new gasket behind it, which is usually just held in place with masking tape, while you get the new plate bolted in. I can't remember if that gasket runs behind the bypass damper housing as well, or if it's a separate gasket for the burn plate.

    Check / repair the gasket on the bottom side of the stove top (watch the door!) before you reinstall that, and while you're in there, you'll probably want to repair or replace the bypass damper gasket as well.

    Not a big or difficult job, but definitely a good 2 - 3 hour job for a first timer.
  4. Joful

    Joful Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Messages:
    6,354
    Loc:
    Philadelphia
    So, what happened? Inquiring minds, and all...

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