DOLMAR 5100

[downeast]

Just for the record, I'm the one calling your worldview binary.

Binary.

And who the H cares what the record is. We don need no stinkin record.

Get out of the virtual sandbox--there's a real world outside.

You calling "worldview binary" ? Any other name calling before you come down ?

I have been warned; it's like a "No Trespassing" sign. Fun to get these virtual bullies. Name calling, huh ?

Hey, you don't want Inconvenient Truths.

 

[mr2autoxr]

I was able to tune the saw last night with the optical tach. I had a small reflective piece of tape placed on the clutch??? right behind the chain sproket. From the bottom right of the saw I was able to have my wife shine the optical tach in there while I ran the saw. It was pretty easy to get the high speed set once it was warmed up.

I ended up with the max RPMs on the meter reading about 14300. I felt this was enough and I had to tweek the L setting a little as well to make it not stall with a small blip of the throttle.

So I am confident the saw is tuned well now and I don't think it is over reving, especially not over reving while it is digging into wood.

This weekend I should be out cutting for the first time with the saw, can't wait!

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Just for the record, I'm the one calling your worldview binary.

Binary.

And who the H cares what the record is. We don need no stinkin record.

Get out of the virtual sandbox--there's a real world outside.

You calling "worldview binary" ? Any other name calling before you come down ?

I have been warned; it's like a "No Trespassing" sign. Fun to get these virtual bullies. Name calling, huh ?

Hey, you don't want Inconvenient Truths.

I just didn't want to share my credit. I'm the name caller. Not that other fella.

 

[carbon neutral]

This airport is commercial, it is not a private 18 grass strip. There are locked gates, video monitors, Homeland Security passenger checks, random police patrols 24/7, HS walkabouts during flight hours. Your vehicle will ( not cannot ) not have access to the fuel or runways. Unless you decided to crash the fences. ( They do that in CT ? )You need a serious ID for your aircraft access. Now of course this is what it is on the ground; your non-binary ( whatever ) virtual reality may vary.

As I said all airports have some security restrictions as mandated by the FAA, the F in FAA stands for Federal so yes even in Connecticut they have these rules. The airport I buy my avgas from does have commercial flights but I am going to the GA side of the airport not the commercial. Even so I was able to get clearance for my vehicle by simply asking the airport manager for access. I had to give him $25 as a deposit on a clicker that opens the security gate. No ID was checked and no credentials were needed to obtain this clicker other than a drivers license, I now have 24/7 access for myself and my vehicle to the entire airport. You may not be allowed to drive your car onto the tarmac that will depend on the airport manager but you will most likely be able to walk out with a jerry can. Airports by design are meant to be intimidating because they don't want people who don't have business being there loitering about. I can only say from my personal experience as a pilot that I have never been denied access to an air strip, I have never been asked for any documentation for access to the GA side of an airport, I have been to many airports, many of the times I have gone it was to just look at the different planes and watch them do take offs and landings. How much experience do you have with GA and dealing with airports? I would love to hear your personal experience, do you have any?

 

[Gooserider]

As I understand it, most airports of any size will have companies that do parts and service for general aviation aircraft - including fuel, or at least w/ access to it.

These outfits are usually built with at least some sort of entrance on the outside of the fence, if only to make it easy for the UPS / Fedex guys to make deliveries - so it is possible to get to a service counter of some sort in order to talk to a guy that DOES have access...

As I understand the rules, they aren't allowed to put fuel into a non-aircraft, especially not a street licensed vehicle, but there is no restriction on filling a jerry can...

Gooserider

 

[carbon neutral]

As I understand it, most airports of any size will have companies that do parts and service for general aviation aircraft - including fuel, or at least w/ access to it.

These outfits are usually built with at least some sort of entrance on the outside of the fence, if only to make it easy for the UPS / Fedex guys to make deliveries - so it is possible to get to a service counter of some sort in order to talk to a guy that DOES have access...

As I understand the rules, they aren't allowed to put fuel into a non-aircraft, especially not a street licensed vehicle, but there is no restriction on filling a jerry can...

Gooserider

You are correct however most FBOs will work with people to accomodate their needs. The airport where I keep my plane does fuel up cars and motorcylces on occassion. If you have ever been to a GA hangar you will notice these are toy shops for grown ups. The hangar where my plane is has all sorts of these toys in it, from custom Harleys to high end Porches. The owners fill their toys with 100LL because on top of being high performance vehicles they also sit idle for long periods of time between uses.

 

[downeast]

This airport is commercial, it is not a private 18 grass strip. There are locked gates, video monitors, Homeland Security passenger checks, random police patrols 24/7, HS walkabouts during flight hours. Your vehicle will ( not cannot ) not have access to the fuel or runways. Unless you decided to crash the fences. ( They do that in CT ? )You need a serious ID for your aircraft access. Now of course this is what it is on the ground; your non-binary ( whatever ) virtual reality may vary.

As I said all airports have some security restrictions as mandated by the FAA, the F in FAA stands for Federal so yes even in Connecticut they have these rules. The airport I buy my avgas from does have commercial flights but I am going to the GA side of the airport not the commercial. Even so I was able to get clearance for my vehicle by simply asking the airport manager for access. I had to give him $25 as a deposit on a clicker that opens the security gate. No ID was checked and no credentials were needed to obtain this clicker other than a drivers license, I now have 24/7 access for myself and my vehicle to the entire airport. You may not be allowed to drive your car onto the tarmac that will depend on the airport manager but you will most likely be able to walk out with a jerry can. Airports by design are meant to be intimidating because they don't want people who don't have business being there loitering about. I can only say from my personal experience as a pilot that I have never been denied access to an air strip, I have never been asked for any documentation for access to the GA side of an airport, I have been to many airports, many of the times I have gone it was to just look at the different planes and watch them do take offs and landings. How much experience do you have with GA and dealing with airports? I would love to hear your personal experience, do you have any?

Yes. Private ticket.
You think all this on-the-ground info comes from the internet ? What are you smoking tonight ?
Want to tell the unwashed what "GA" is so they may know your extreme level of knowledge ? We did not realise that the "F" in "FAA" was. Thank you.
BTW: the manager that gave you access by you showing only your Drivers License was violating mandated security regs---country wide. The "F".

 

[carbon neutral]

This airport is commercial, it is not a private 18 grass strip. There are locked gates, video monitors, Homeland Security passenger checks, random police patrols 24/7, HS walkabouts during flight hours. Your vehicle will ( not cannot ) not have access to the fuel or runways. Unless you decided to crash the fences. ( They do that in CT ? )You need a serious ID for your aircraft access. Now of course this is what it is on the ground; your non-binary ( whatever ) virtual reality may vary.

As I said all airports have some security restrictions as mandated by the FAA, the F in FAA stands for Federal so yes even in Connecticut they have these rules. The airport I buy my avgas from does have commercial flights but I am going to the GA side of the airport not the commercial. Even so I was able to get clearance for my vehicle by simply asking the airport manager for access. I had to give him $25 as a deposit on a clicker that opens the security gate. No ID was checked and no credentials were needed to obtain this clicker other than a drivers license, I now have 24/7 access for myself and my vehicle to the entire airport. You may not be allowed to drive your car onto the tarmac that will depend on the airport manager but you will most likely be able to walk out with a jerry can. Airports by design are meant to be intimidating because they don't want people who don't have business being there loitering about. I can only say from my personal experience as a pilot that I have never been denied access to an air strip, I have never been asked for any documentation for access to the GA side of an airport, I have been to many airports, many of the times I have gone it was to just look at the different planes and watch them do take offs and landings. How much experience do you have with GA and dealing with airports? I would love to hear your personal experience, do you have any?

Yes. Private ticket.
You think all this on-the-ground info comes from the internet ? What are you smoking tonight ?
Want to tell the unwashed what "GA" is so they may know your extreme level of knowledge ? We did not realise that the "F" in "FAA" was. Thank you.

BTW: the manager that gave you access by you showing only your Drivers License was violating mandated security regs---country wide. The "F".

You are wrong on everything you have said, deal with it. Off with you now go find a different sand box.

 

[Brian VT]

So...I'm pretty happy with my 5100. I have dealers of all the other brands locally but I drove 1 hr. to get the Dolmar.
Now I've got my eyes peeled for my local HD selling their Makita rentals for cheap and building a big saw (which I probably have little use for).

 

[carbon neutral]

Dolmar...oh yeah that's what we were talking about. I always ask my HD when they are going to sell their saws. I already have a 7900 with very few hours on it, I just ask figuring if they do have one for sale I could post it here. I was told they are given a print out in the spring with what equipmet they should put up for sale. How's that 5100 working out for you?

 

[Brian VT]

Thanks for the tip on the Spring sales at HD.
I do like the 5100 so far, and I'm still running the stock Vanguard chain, but I'm just bucking 5-12" firewood right now.
Now that deer hunting is done and there's some snow on the ground I'll get into dropping a few of my older cherry trees. The 5100 should be perfect for those.
I'm anxious to get a few more tanks of gas through it and then throw a better chain on to see what this screamer can really do.

 

[kevin j]

Q hr. to get the Dolmar.
Now I’ve got my eyes peeled for my local HD selling their Makita rentals for cheap and building a big saw (which I probably have little use for). Q




HD returns are a bit hard to find here, they are catching onto the game.
Eric Ritchey on arborist site has some connections and picks up the HD 6400 and does the 7900 conversion. Bought mine from him already done that way. and it has the makita 6400 plastics instead of red dolmar, which I sort of wanted just to be the 'sleeper' in disguise.
I think it is brad snelling who is proptyping an 85 cc big bore kit from Baileys on the dolmar. Cheaper and bigger than the OEM 79 kit. Since it is a chinese knockoff kit, the jury is still out on reliability. For pro work and alot of hours, probably not the answer. For fun firewood cutting, might be a really fun kit. I like the 79, but 85 cc would be even better, by another 10% so of fun.... : )


k

 

[mr2autoxr]

I FINALLY was able to use my new 5100. I was able to get about 3 tanks of gas through it today and WOW I like this saw. It cuts super fast IMO with the .325 pitch 18" stock chain. I just ordered an Oregon 20LP which should cut even faster. I can't wait to see how that does.

All of the carb tuning I did earlier seemed to work fine. I just had to dial back the H setting at first as I believe I was bouncing off the rev limiter a couple of times in the first cut.

After that it was great. I think I got about 1.75 cords cut and split today. Now my back hurts! LOL. I'll get it all stacked tomorrow.

Mike

 

[Brian VT]

Only 1.75 cord and you didn't get it stacked today ? loljk
I'm liking the 5100S too but I don't have anything to compare it to. Mine came with 3/8" Oregon Vanguard (safety) on 18" bar. I'll probably try a loop of 72DP or Stihl RMC when I get some more experience under my belt.

 

[sl7vk]

Only 1.75 cord and you didn't get it stacked today ? loljk
I'm liking the 5100S too but I don't have anything to compare it to. Mine came with 3/8" Oregon Vanguard (safety) on 18" bar. I'll probably try a loop of 72DP or Stihl RMC when I get some more experience under my belt.

I run 3/8's and love it. Most all my cutting is with a 16" bar. I have a dusty 20" in my garage.....

Amicks has that Oregon chain for like 12 bucks a loop. Great deal. Do yourself a favor and order some.

 

[Gooserider]

Only 1.75 cord and you didn't get it stacked today ? loljk
I'm liking the 5100S too but I don't have anything to compare it to. Mine came with 3/8" Oregon Vanguard (safety) on 18" bar. I'll probably try a loop of 72DP or Stihl RMC when I get some more experience under my belt.

I run 3/8's and love it. Most all my cutting is with a 16" bar. I have a dusty 20" in my garage.....

Amicks has that Oregon chain for like 12 bucks a loop. Great deal. Do yourself a favor and order some.

Note that you can also save even more by ordering multiple loops - Tony ships stuff like chain loops in one of those flat rate priority mail envelopes - I forget just how many loops he can stuff into one, but you can order as many loops as he can cram in the package for the same shipping cost... I give Amicks a lot of credit, they are one of the better places I've done business with - friendly, good pricing, fast, and w/ customer service that really goes the extra mile...

Gooserider

 

[Brian VT]

Amicks has that Oregon chain for like 12 bucks a loop. Great deal. Do yourself a favor and order some.

The 72DP or should I stick with the Vanguard for a while ? What makes the "safety" chain safer, anyway ?

 

[sl7vk]

Amicks has that Oregon chain for like 12 bucks a loop. Great deal. Do yourself a favor and order some.

The 72DP or should I stick with the Vanguard for a while ? What makes the "safety" chain safer, anyway ?

The rakers on the safety chain are deeper, thus reducing the risk of kickback.

Wear PPE, when you engage a cut make sure that if the saw does kick back that it will miss your head.... there are some good diagrams online regarding this.

My feeling is that the non-safety chain is more dangerous because it doesn't cut as well. Nothing like a dull knife to get hurt..... You have to apply more force, take more risks etc....

Always use a sharp knife IMHO....

 

[Gooserider]

Amicks has that Oregon chain for like 12 bucks a loop. Great deal. Do yourself a favor and order some.

The 72DP or should I stick with the Vanguard for a while ? What makes the "safety" chain safer, anyway ?

I would move up to the Pro-chain as soon as I could, as even that is now designed with a fair amount of anti-kickback features, just not as much so. Remember that "safety chain" isn't - it will still do you serious damage if misused, it can still kick back under the right (wrong) conditions, etc... Seems to me like the shrinkology people might even be concerned about the name generating false overconfidence in it's anti-kickback performance.... It really ought to be called "REDUCED kickback" - with emphasis on reducing it, NOT eliminating it... You will be far safer using pro-chain and keeping material from getting into the kickback danger zone than using safety chain with bad cutting habbits...

The key thing that makes "safety chain" safer is the "bumper links" that most such chain has in between the cutting links. These links are supposed to not get in the way on the straight sections of the bar, but stick up far enough to "bump" the chain away from digging into the wood if you touch it on the curved tip of the bar (the upper half of which is the "danger zone") and thus reduce the chances of a serious kickback. The problem is that the bumper links also prevent effective "plunge cutting" or other cutting with the tip of the bar - which is a useful, albeit somewhat advanced, technique.

One use that I often do when bucking (and see others doing as well) is when bucking a log on the ground, I cut from the top as far down as I can (or dare) and then roll the log over to finish the cuts, which I do by using the top of the bar to continue the existing cut UP and out of the log rather than starting a new cut down from the top with the bottom of the bar and hoping they line up perfectly... Works great with pro-chain, not as well w/ safety chain. (Note that this WILL sometimes give minor kickbacks if you aren't lined up with the existing cut well enough, but it isn't a problem if you have a proper hold on the saw)

Pro-chain and some of the less radical "safety chains" don't have the bumper links, but have differently shaped "rakers" that are alleged to produce a reduction in the likelyhood of kickback over the old traditional style chains, but not reduce the ability to cut with the tip as much.

In my limited personal experience, using modern saws with narrow bars, modern designs, etc., I have not found that pro-chain has a significantly bigger problem with kickback than safety chain.

Gooserider

 

[downeast]

I would move up to the Pro-chain as soon as I could, as even that is now designed with a fair amount of anti-kickback features, just not as much so. Remember that "safety chain" isn't - it will still do you serious damage if misused, it can still kick back under the right (wrong) conditions, etc... Seems to me like the shrinkology people might even be concerned about the name generating false overconfidence in it's anti-kickback performance.... It really ought to be called "REDUCED kickback" - with emphasis on reducing it, NOT eliminating it... You will be far safer using pro-chain and keeping material from getting into the kickback danger zone than using safety chain with bad cutting habbits...

The key thing that makes "safety chain" safer is the "bumper links" that most such chain has in between the cutting links. These links are supposed to not get in the way on the straight sections of the bar, but stick up far enough to "bump" the chain away from digging into the wood if you touch it on the curved tip of the bar (the upper half of which is the "danger zone") and thus reduce the chances of a serious kickback. The problem is that the bumper links also prevent effective "plunge cutting" or other cutting with the tip of the bar - which is a useful, albeit somewhat advanced, technique.
One use that I often do when bucking (and see others doing as well) is when bucking a log on the ground, I cut from the top as far down as I can (or dare) and then roll the log over to finish the cuts, which I do by using the top of the bar to continue the existing cut UP and out of the log rather than starting a new cut down from the top with the bottom of the bar and hoping they line up perfectly... Works great with pro-chain, not as well w/ safety chain. (Note that this WILL sometimes give minor kickbacks if you aren't lined up with the existing cut well enough, but it isn't a problem if you have a proper hold on the saw)
Pro-chain and some of the less radical "safety chains" don't have the bumper links, but have differently shaped "rakers" that are alleged to produce a reduction in the likelyhood of kickback over the old traditional style chains, but not reduce the ability to cut with the tip as much.

In my limited personal experience, using modern saws with narrow bars, modern designs, etc., I have not found that pro-chain has a significantly bigger problem with kickback than safety chain.
Gooserider

Nemesis and binary here Gooserider et al ...sorry that I don't have the time to be online hours every day to respond to often bad advice and the usual flames.

Let's start with the more dangerous advice: the design of "safety chain". As you say "in (your) limited experience.." with chainsaws, what you call "pro chain" does have a major danger with kickback with inexperienced users with limited experience.
They are a different animal from LOW KICKBACK chain. What the manufacturers call " non-safety chain" ( Stihl marks it yellow ) is engineered for efficiency in the right hands.
"Safety chain" ( Stihl marked green ) is engineered as LOW kickback chain. The "bumpers" definately do NOT "BUMP the chain anywhere. Just partially prevent the chain from KICKING Back with extreme torque out of a cut.

And please, NO ONE ( not even the Mr. Machos here ) can avoid kickback with "a proper hold on a saw"; forget it. There are too many foot-pounds of force to manhandle a kickback at WOT. It is technique, training, experience, thinking that is not gotten online or a few hours cutting a pile of wood in someone's yard.

The "plunge cut" ( really termed "bore") is learned . It is usually called "bore cutting"--part of professional and safe techniques for felling and cutting. I've bore cut good size trees with a "by accident" use of a Stihl green "safety chain"; when sharpened right and rakers to the specified height, they bore as well as any of the yellow non-safety chains. Slower, yes. Come and watch ?

Sorry: a slice of reality that certainly will not sit well in this crowd. Given in the wish that some will at least get out and try and not be always right.
JMNSHO

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I would move up to the Pro-chain as soon as I could, as even that is now designed with a fair amount of anti-kickback features, just not as much so. Remember that "safety chain" isn't - it will still do you serious damage if misused, it can still kick back under the right (wrong) conditions, etc... Seems to me like the shrinkology people might even be concerned about the name generating false overconfidence in it's anti-kickback performance.... It really ought to be called "REDUCED kickback" - with emphasis on reducing it, NOT eliminating it... You will be far safer using pro-chain and keeping material from getting into the kickback danger zone than using safety chain with bad cutting habbits...

The key thing that makes "safety chain" safer is the "bumper links" that most such chain has in between the cutting links. These links are supposed to not get in the way on the straight sections of the bar, but stick up far enough to "bump" the chain away from digging into the wood if you touch it on the curved tip of the bar (the upper half of which is the "danger zone") and thus reduce the chances of a serious kickback. The problem is that the bumper links also prevent effective "plunge cutting" or other cutting with the tip of the bar - which is a useful, albeit somewhat advanced, technique.
One use that I often do when bucking (and see others doing as well) is when bucking a log on the ground, I cut from the top as far down as I can (or dare) and then roll the log over to finish the cuts, which I do by using the top of the bar to continue the existing cut UP and out of the log rather than starting a new cut down from the top with the bottom of the bar and hoping they line up perfectly... Works great with pro-chain, not as well w/ safety chain. (Note that this WILL sometimes give minor kickbacks if you aren't lined up with the existing cut well enough, but it isn't a problem if you have a proper hold on the saw)
Pro-chain and some of the less radical "safety chains" don't have the bumper links, but have differently shaped "rakers" that are alleged to produce a reduction in the likelyhood of kickback over the old traditional style chains, but not reduce the ability to cut with the tip as much.

In my limited personal experience, using modern saws with narrow bars, modern designs, etc., I have not found that pro-chain has a significantly bigger problem with kickback than safety chain.
Gooserider

Nemesis and binary here Gooserider et al ...sorry that I don't have the time to be online hours every day to respond to often bad advice and the usual flames.

Let's start with the more dangerous advice: the design of "safety chain". As you say "in (your) limited experience.." with chainsaws, what you call "pro chain" does have a major danger with kickback with inexperienced users with limited experience.
They are a different animal from LOW KICKBACK chain. What the manufacturers call " non-safety chain" ( Stihl marks it yellow ) is engineered for efficiency in the right hands.
"Safety chain" ( Stihl marked green ) is engineered as LOW kickback chain. The "bumpers" definately do NOT "BUMP the chain anywhere. Just partially prevent the chain from KICKING Back with extreme torque out of a cut.

And please, NO ONE ( not even the Mr. Machos here ) can avoid kickback with "a proper hold on a saw"; forget it. There are too many foot-pounds of force to manhandle a kickback at WOT. It is technique, training, experience, thinking that is not gotten online or a few hours cutting a pile of wood in someone's yard.

The "plunge cut" ( really termed "bore") is learned . It is usually called "bore cutting"--part of professional and safe techniques for felling and cutting. I've bore cut good size trees with a "by accident" use of a Stihl green "safety chain"; when sharpened right and rakers to the specified height, they bore as well as any of the yellow non-safety chains. Slower, yes. Come and watch ?

Sorry: a slice of reality that certainly will not sit well in this crowd. Given in the wish that some will at least get out and try and not be always right.
JMNSHO

AvGas prevents kick-backs.

 

[downeast]

AvGas prevents kick-backs.

????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

 

[slinger]

I've priced a 5100s w/20" bar and 3/8ths chain for 430.00 + tax at a dolmar dealer. I'm thinkin... I was told to use AvGas in my 2165 J-red by my dealer. I did for awhile but it was a PITA to drive 18 miles to the airport to get 5 galllons/time. Now, because of Homeland security the airport is going to require an N number to buy any fuel at all. I've switched back to pump gas and detuned my saw a little and haven't had issues yet. I really like the way that 5100 feels-- light and 14,500 rpm would be fun!

 

[Shipper50]

I've priced a 5100s w/20" bar and 3/8ths chain for 430.00 + tax at a dolmar dealer. I'm thinkin... I was told to use AvGas in my 2165 J-red by my dealer. I did for awhile but it was a PITA to drive 18 miles to the airport to get 5 galllons/time. Now, because of Homeland security the airport is going to require an N number to buy any fuel at all. I've switched back to pump gas and detuned my saw a little and haven't had issues yet. I really like the way that 5100 feels-- light and 14,500 rpm would be fun!

I agree that the 5100 feels great. Best handling saw I have ever run. Mine has a 18 inch bar with 3/8 chain that it came with.

Shipper

 

[downeast]

I'm thinkin... I was told to use AvGas in my 2165 J-red by my dealer. I did for awhile but it was a PITA to drive 18 miles to the airport to get 5 galllons/time. Now, because of Homeland security the airport is going to require an N number to buy any fuel at all. I've switched back to pump gas and detuned my saw a little and haven't had issues yet. I really like the way that 5100 feels-- light and 14,500 rpm would be fun!

Hey look guys, that "N" is usually on the tail/rudder. So, just solo, get your instrument rating and a private ticket, join AOPA, then you can get all the "AvGas" ( called Aviation Fuel really ) you want. You mean to say that all airports now have real security ? Who woulda known.

Or, as an option, get an N number for your saw. :lol: