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double barrel single barrel or water heater tank stove?

Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by greythorn3, Nov 8, 2011.

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  1. greythorn3

    greythorn3 Minister of Fire

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    anyone ever used the double barrel stove kit? is it that much better then the single barrel? i dont see how it would really be any better as it seems to be just a large chimney the 2nd barrel on top.

    also thinking of doing a water heater stove, as i got a ele water heater layign around.

    something for my drafty pole barn anyhow.

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  2. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

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    I had the single barrel. Then converted it to double barrel. Got more radiant heat with the double. I eventually moved it out of the basement, cut doors in the ends of the top barrel and put two rows of racks in and made a monster smoker out of it.
  3. pen

    pen There are some who call me...mod. Staff Member

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    Use one a couple weekends a winter at my buddies cabin. The top chamber is just for more surface area and works sorta like a large heat exchanger / draft reducer / creosote chamber. Their stove is going on about 20 years and is due for replacement. When it's done, I want to take that bad boy outside and induce a chimney fire in that top chamber as it has got to be completely loaded.

    Can't compare it to an actual single barrel stove, but I'd assume the singles would draft better but that is just a guess.

    I actually have a buddy w/ an old Blaze King where he placed a barrel on top of the stove and then has the chimney pipe attached to that. Not saying it's a good idea, just that I've seen it done.

    pen
  4. greythorn3

    greythorn3 Minister of Fire

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    thanks for moving it!

    also thats a great idea to use it as a smoker too!

    maybe i will get the dual kit. need some heat now.. then work on the water heater tank stove for fun later.

    the legs are so short on the stove kit tho. i might have to make a hearth out of cement blocks to get them stoves up higher since there might be some gas fumes in the pole barn at times. dont really want to make it unstable tho. would like it 2 feet off the ground.
  5. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

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    Just change your diet. :coolsmirk:
  6. greythorn3

    greythorn3 Minister of Fire

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    anyone burn mostly slab wood? thinking of getting a few cords of it
  7. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

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    Member karl does. Shoot him a PM.
  8. Dune

    Dune Minister of Fire

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    I made a double barrel stove for a shop I had.

    I wouldn't bother with a water heater, too thin.
  9. greythorn3

    greythorn3 Minister of Fire

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    actually the water heater tanks are allot thicker then the 55 gal barrels.
  10. Dune

    Dune Minister of Fire

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    I used resin barrels, with clamp on tops.

    For regular oil barrels you are likely correct.
  11. greythorn3

    greythorn3 Minister of Fire

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    what are these barrels yoru tlaking about? maybe i need to locate some of them, because all i have is old oil barrels. they dont seem to thick.
  12. Dune

    Dune Minister of Fire

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    The ones I used had clamp on lids, and were used to hold resins used in manufacturing. They are easily twice as thick ia oil drums.
    Are there any good sized boatyards near you?
  13. gfreek

    gfreek Minister of Fire

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    Heated with a double barrel for years. Used a truck fuel tank, cut the end off, welded a flat plate with installed door, used regular 55 gal drum for upper. Knew a guy who had a auto repair shop and heated with double barrel for years..
  14. greythorn3

    greythorn3 Minister of Fire

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    ya 2 ports, them are good sized for sure!

    heres my load of slab, gonna get another one soon too!

    [​IMG]

    fuel tank is a great idea! heck i got a beer keg, its alum tho. that would be a neat little stove if you could keep the temp down, i dont know what temp alum melts at.
  15. Dune

    Dune Minister of Fire

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    Aluminum melts at 1200F, far too low for a wood stove.

    A lot of kegs are stainless steel though.

    For that slab wood, a barrel stove wood be good though, because of the length.
  16. greythorn3

    greythorn3 Minister of Fire

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    well i placed the order last thursday for the stove kit thru ace! just got the single kit for now, can add the double on later if i like i guess.. cant wait for it to arrive, think im just gonna use one of my fuel oil barrels i got laying around for now, and hunt out the infamous thicker barrel later on in time.


    should be 10 days tell the kit gets in. still need to make a crappy door on the front of my pole barn to help with the heat retention some.
  17. greythorn3

    greythorn3 Minister of Fire

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    kits in, gotta go pick it up. what you guys think about using all single wall black pipe for the chimney for a non heated pole barn? i would go out the side wall at a angle with a oval i cut in the metal siding. or maybe out a window.
  18. Dune

    Dune Minister of Fire

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    It will work better if you go straight up.
  19. greythorn3

    greythorn3 Minister of Fire

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    ya straight up would be best. but then id have to worry about trying to figure out how to seal around single wall pipe going thru the pole barn roof. (its metal sided and roofed)


    just seems easier to go at a 45 then maybe straight up the front side of the barn with all single wall stove pipe.
  20. pen

    pen There are some who call me...mod. Staff Member

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    I have a book on wood burning from the 70's that talks about this style chimney. Even back then they only recommended it if it were in something that were to be used for a weekend, once or twice a year and disassembled in between each use.

    Lay a block chimney if you need to save a buck. They aren't hard. Or shop craigslist for some used SS chimney

    pen
  21. greythorn3

    greythorn3 Minister of Fire

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    ya block in a earthquake state aint gonna happen with me. anyhow i will probably try it out and post the results. will just be a once in a thing tell i find more class a maybe, i dont think class a will matter much other then clearances since the building is aywhere from -15 (today) to what ever temperature the outdoors ususally is.
  22. Highbeam

    Highbeam Minister of Fire

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    Earthquake smearthquake, I am supposedly in an "earthquake state" too and I think it is a load of crap. I put it right up there with global warming.
  23. North of 60

    North of 60 Minister of Fire

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    Looks like we are twins here from your last pic. This is from the spruce beetle kill out of Haines Junction.
    I can get some wicked burn times out of it as you can pack the stove absolutely full and I mean full. Did I say full. You can pack it full. ;-) I wouldn't do this with my old secondary tube burner unit though.
    Cheers.

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  24. Dune

    Dune Minister of Fire

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    Put a regular metalbestus or whatever all fuel roof flange with a lenght or two (whatever you need) above the roof.
    Run from the stove straight up to the roof flange with single wall. That is the cheapest, best working system and meets the codes and saftey requirements.

    Your entire inside run is just black stovepipe, you only have to buy two or three components of the expensive stuff.
    Especialy since you don't have the second barrel, the long length of single wall pipe will radiate heat inside the building instead of outside.
  25. greythorn3

    greythorn3 Minister of Fire

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    oh boy! another slabber! had the nc30 up to 900F this last weekend when i packed it with slab, gotta be careful with that stuff! :) best to pack slab with a round i thinkin!

    i got one small 3 foot section of class a metalestos now, so maybe i will get another, not sure how i will secure it to the metal pole barn roof tho, sure dont wanna buy a rood support kit.
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