double-wall stovepipe temp?

[beefstew]

I'm getting used to a Drolet Eldorado EPA, non-cat stove. About 3 days of ~14hr long fires so far. Burning dry oak, split into 3-5" diameter pieces.

Double-wall stovepipe is about 3' vertical, then 3' horizontal to the Selkirk double-wall chimney.

So far, I haven't seen a stovepipe temperature above ~450F, and typical stovepipe temperature is about 300F. Measurement is taken with an SBI thermometer, which is a probe-type that sticks into the middle of the stovepipe. I installed the thermometer about 24" above the stove, and the above-stove damper has only ever been wide open.

So, is this an ok stovepipe temperature? Is there something else I should be doing (or burning) to get the temp higher?

 

[Warm_in_NH]

Seems high for the probe install, is that where they call for not to be put?

Those terms are low. I have a non cat stove 2 cubic foot box, double wall pipe is routinely cruising around 500-600 with a probe.

Probably either installed too high up or a bad thermometer. I have trouble seeing how the pipe could consistently stay so low.

 

[WiscWoody]

My Drolet 2.2 CF non cat EPA rated stove will run between 400-700 depending on how dry the wood is, how much wood is being burned and the primary air setting. I run it at 700ish if I'm warming up the house after it has cooled down to 57 or 58 and around 450-500 degrees if it's close to my comfort range in the home.My probed gauge instructions said to mount it at 18" above the stove top. And I clean the probe every once in awhile for faster readings. I wouldn't have a damper installed in a modern stove if you have air control on the stove as even if it's open it will still restrict the smooth draft. Someone should jump in here to confirm this before you remove it though.

 

[farmboy05]

I have mine at 18" above my Drolet Escape and it'll run between 400-700 typically. I also have the same probe and double wall pipe. I'm burning soft and silver maple though so I think it burns hotter and faster. What are your turndown steps though? I found that have to wait until said probe is around 200 before I can close my door, then I'll wait for the probe to be around 400 or more before I start closing the primary air. Although I base the primary air more on the stove top temp and just how the fire looks.

Also, I found early on just how much dry wood is critical. I was having issues getting up to temp and I found that I was pulling wood from a wetter area on my pile, so check your wood moisture?

 

[begreen]

Temps are a bit low. How full are you filling the firebox? How hot has the stove top been getting?

 

[mepellet]

My temps on my Selkirk double wall stove pipe prove thermo read 500-600 usually when cruising. Once in a while gets up to around 900.......

 

[beefstew]

I have access to a non-contact thermometer - how hot should the outside top of the stove be while running?

Also, do I understand correctly that some of you run the draft wide open/door cracked until you reach a certain temp? What is that temp?

The wood I'm using cane from a friend's pile - it (oak) had dried for several years at his place and then it got rained on (!?!!?!) at my place for a day before the ground finally froze (last week).

I can actually hear the chimney "rumbling" right now - I assume its turbulent combustion air.

I feel like the chimney probe thermometer instructions said to install at least 18" above the stove - that's why I went with 24" - I can't imagine the temperature drops 100F in 6" travel.

 

[Warm_in_NH]

Rumbling chimney usually isn't good....

My stove top right now is 340, probe is reading 600 inside the pipe.

Check your owners manual, should tell you where to measure your stove top temp and what it should be. Usually in the 300-550 range.

Little rain shouldn't hurt the wood too much.

On a fresh (cold ) start, I will crack the door depending on atmospheric conditions, until I get the flu into the "good zone to establish a strong draft.

Thinking you have a bum thermometer. I just checked my stove top with an IR thermometer and it appears to be 50-100 degrees off depending on how hot it is.

 

[begreen]

I wouldn't worry too much about 18" vs 24 ". Describe the chimney system that this stove is tied into. And describe this rumble in more detail.

 

[CRE10]

Where can I order one? I was going to order through Menards, but they want $18 to ship two of them

http://www.menards.com/main/heating...er-w-probe-for-double-wall-pipe/p-2123023.htm

 

[farmboy05]

Where can I order one? I was going to order through Menards, but they want $18 to ship two of them

http://www.menards.com/main/heating...er-w-probe-for-double-wall-pipe/p-2123023.htm

Check Amazon, but fleetfarm has them as well and is usually priced pretty well.

http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/drolet-magnetic-chimney-thermometer-with-probe/0000000036318

 

[CRE10]

Check Amazon, but fleetfarm has them as well and is usually priced pretty well.

http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/drolet-magnetic-chimney-thermometer-with-probe/0000000036318

Thank you. Amazon is around $30 shipped for one.

 

[rideau]

Yes, chimney rumbling is not something you want.

If your probe is not defective, you are not getting your stove hot enough if you are not getting higher flue temps than that on start up, and you certainly don't need a flue damper. Sometimes a flue damper IS needed

I just loaded the stove about ten minutes ago, opened flue damper, bypass an stove air all the way. Three minutes probe thermometer at 450, closed flue damper all the way (which closes flue 80%), reduced air feed to half way; at 10 minutes probe thermometer 800 degrees and very active fire. Closed air to barely open, closed bypass, now two minutes later, secondaries and 600 degree probe temp. That temp will go down gradually now throughout the burn.

I'd be worried about creosote formation further up the pipe with those low temps being your maximum temps.

Can you tell us what your burning technique is and whether you are getting any secondary burn?

 

[beefstew]

Well, after a few more fires I've learned to start with much smaller pieces of oak and palletwood. I start the stove with door 1/4" open and flue 100% open. After the kindling breaks down into coals I load the box full of split oak (mostly). Pieces are no more than 3" diameter. With flue 100% open I can get the stovepipe temp up to maybe 500F (according to SBI probe thermometer @24" above stove). When the wood burns down to coals the temp drops to 250-300F.

Still haven't taken a stove-top reading. Also haven't checked probe w/ a replacement from Fleet Farm.

One related thought - stove is burning household air (no cold air intake). What would be symptoms of insufficient combustion air?