Drolet 1800i or Century CW2900... same fireplace?

[digitalmc]

So I'm looking for a budget fireplace with a little kick, enough to heat a 1600sq ft floor, and I've come across 2 finalists. They are the Drolet 1800i and the Century CW2900.

The thing is they seem pretty much identical. They are even made by the same parent company. Is one brand "better" then the other. Of these two fireplaces any noticeable differences? Both get great reviews

Any help appreciated!

 

[begreen]

From the same mfg. with small differences. Century->Drolet->Osburn (and Flame + Enerzone) are all variants.

Do you have the accurate full dimensions of the fireplace for the front and back and including the depth? I am wondering if a True North TN20 insert would fit or a Heatilator ECO-Wins18.

 

[digitalmc]

From the same mfg. with small differences. Century->Drolet->Osburn (and Flame + Enerzone) are all variants.

Do you have the accurate full dimensions of the fireplace for the front and back and including the depth? I am wondering if a True North TN20 insert would fit or a Heatilator ECO-Wins18.

So is Osburn better then Drolet which is better then Century... am I reading your scale right? I measured my fireplace and it's 36"w x 28"h x 33"d. It's a fairly big space. I'd love to get a bigger fire box. My hearth is only 13" out from the "wall" so I can't have anything that sticks out too far.

The TrueNoth only had a 2.0 cu.ft. fire box. I'd like it to be larger than that... at least 2.5 and ideally 3. Now the Heatilator also has a 2.0 cu. ft. firebox... what makes it so special? I noticed it had a longer burn time but only 41,000 BTU. Would this actually heat the floor? It's an interesting option.

 

[begreen]

The SBI specs are a bit exaggerated compared to some years back. The 2900 used to be listed as a 2.1 cu ft stove. You have a big space to heat and considering this is in a cold climate I would be looking in the 2.5 to 3.0 cu ft range. That would be the Osburn 2400 in the SBI line. The big firebox will allow more flexible loading options and longer burn time.

 

[digitalmc]

The SBI specs are a bit exaggerated compared to some years back. The 2900 used to be listed as a 2.1 cu ft stove. You have a big space to heat and considering this is in a cold climate I would be looking in the 2.5 to 3.0 cu ft range. That would be the Osburn 2400 in the SBI line. The big firebox will allow more flexible loading options and longer burn time.

Absolutely, problem is the Osburn 2400 sticks out 11.5 inches and my hearth is only 13". If it turns out it stratles the edge beyond what code allows I need to consider other options. I need to have space for a grate as well as I have children I need to keep safe.

 

[begreen]

Sounds like the solution is a hearth extension. Perhaps this can be taken care of with a hearth extension board or a permanent built, hearth extension. Got a picture of the current setup?

 

[PWash]

If your hearth is at ground level, CW2900 installation code will also dictate thermal protection in front of the stove. The CW29000 requires R=2.0 that extends out 16" (or 18" in Canada) from the face of the stove. If your hearth is raised off the floor (min 4.0"), then you don't need to worry about R value, and only ember protection (non combustible surface) is required 16" from the face of the stove.

The Osburn 2400 insert manual is less stringent and only requires a "R value" of 1.0 if the hearth is at ground level.

Each stove you look at will have different requirements. I second begreen's request for a picture. It would help identify if there are other installation issues, such as proximity to the mantle/side walls and floor protection requirements.

 

[digitalmc]

Sounds like the solution is a hearth extension. Perhaps this can be taken care of with a hearth extension board or a permanent built, hearth extension. Got a picture of the current setup?

I've uploaded pictures per your request. Hopefully this helps. The mantle is 10" off the ground and 12" out from the opening. A hearth extension could be tough because I'd have to re-built it an match the stone... unless I'm missing something.

@PWash Thanks for those numbers. It seems I MAY be alright if it's raised (which it is).

 

[begreen]

The elevated hearth helps. It looks like a simple ember-shielding hearth extension at floor level will work. This needs to extend at least 16" in front of the insert door. There are several options from pre-made to DIY. Here are some examples.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TNQGYA/?tag=hearthamazon-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E8O814/?tag=hearthamazon-20

 

[PWash]

There are also fiberglass mats you can use, woodland direct lists some.
You should check the side walls of the fireplace to see if their angle will limit how far back you can slide the insert. The mantle will have a clearance requirement but it doesnt look like it sicks out too far from the wall. Have you already taken a look up your chimney to see how easy you can slide a 6" dia liner thru the damper area?

 

[digitalmc]

The elevated hearth helps. It looks like a simple ember-shielding hearth extension at floor level will work. This needs to extend at least 16" in front of the insert door. There are several options from pre-made to DIY. Here are some examples.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TNQGYA/?tag=hearthamazon-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E8O814/?tag=hearthamazon-20

Gotcha, yeah it may be best to just buy something like this. Seems like it will look super silly but you gotta do what you gotta do. I am afraid if I tile it won't be thick enough for a proper temperature rating. I'll look into buying these.

@PWash I didnt measure the flu yet. I can measure. I'm so torn right now... These all look great, but they are an extra $1500 out the door.

At the end of the day, these Osburn fireplaces will cost additional $1500 bucks. Would the Drolet 1800i or Century CW2900 really be a terrible decision? They save so much money. And is one better then the other? Maybe not... Are they worth the extras $1500 bucks?

 

[begreen]

With the raised hearth, you should only need ember protection for the floor.

Where are you getting the pricing for the Osburn 2400 insert from? It should be about $2000 and that is before the $300 tax credit.
http://www.osburnwoodstoves.com/Osburn_2400_Insert_Osburn_Stove_Osburn_Wood_Stove_p/obo2401.htm

 

[digitalmc]

With the raised hearth, you should only need ember protection for the floor.

Where are you getting the pricing for the Osburn 2400 insert from? It should be about $2000 and that is before the $300 tax credit.
http://www.osburnwoodstoves.com/Osburn_2400_Insert_Osburn_Stove_Osburn_Wood_Stove_p/obo2401.htm

Well it's $2050 for the fireplace, + $150 for the door + $130 for the faceplate + $80 for the trim

If you have a better idea let me know.

 

[brenndatomu]

Would the Drolet 1800i or Century CW2900 really be a terrible decision?

No, they are both solid, respectable, quality heaters.
You are far enough south that I would think that you only have a few days per winter where either one wouldn't completely keep up. (unless your insulation is terrible) If it won't keep up that day then just run a lil fossil fuel to make up the difference...to me it's pretty hard to justify an extra $1500 up front when it will only save a couple bucks per month for 1, 2, maybe 3 months per year. People get too hung up on being able to heat 100% with wood (me included) what's wrong with 95%?

Just FYI, I'm not sure if you have a Menards in Cinci, I know there is one in Columbus. Watch their sale ads in the fall/winter, they have really good prices on both the CW2900 and the 1800i. I missed a sale two winters back where they were blowing the 1800i out for $700! They more commonly have it on sale for $995 or so...the 2900 maybe $100 less.
And don't forget the $300 tax credit that is available for 2016 too...

 

[digitalmc]

No, they are both solid, respectable, quality heaters.
You are far enough south that I would think that you only have a few days per winter where either one wouldn't completely keep up. (unless your insulation is terrible) If it won't keep up that day then just run a lil fossil fuel to make up the difference...to me it's pretty hard to justify an extra $1500 up front when it will only save a couple bucks per month for 1, 2, maybe 3 months per year. People get too hung up on being able to heat 100% with wood (me included) what's wrong with 95%?

Just FYI, I'm not sure if you have a Menards in Cinci, I know there is one in Columbus. Watch their sale ads in the fall/winter, they have really good prices on both the CW2900 and the 1800i. I missed a sale two winters back where they were blowing the 1800i out for $700! They more commonly have it on sale for $995 or so...the 2900 maybe $100 less.
And don't forget the $300 tax credit that is available for 2016 too...

Hey thanks man! Honestly we have 2 fireplaces, one in the front of the house and one in the back. If needed I could always throw a cheapie up in the front of the house to make up the difference. My big fear is longevity... in 5 years these lower end ones will start to break down. Not sure that is a valid fear though. People seem to really like them.

We do have a Menards in cincy actually. They are SOOO much cheaper its crazy. I'm almost afraid not to buy now in fear they will recognize a pricing error and adjust to $1800 lol. Is the $300 tax credit good for both of these? I did notice that and got pretty pumped about it.

 

[brenndatomu]

Hey thanks man! Honestly we have 2 fireplaces, one in the front of the house and one in the back. If needed I could always throw a cheapie up in the front of the house to make up the difference. My big fear is longevity... in 5 years these lower end ones will start to break down. Not sure that is a valid fear though. People seem to really like them.

We do have a Menards in cincy actually. They are SOOO much cheaper its crazy. I'm almost afraid not to buy now in fear they will recognize a pricing error and adjust to $1800 lol. Is the $300 tax credit good for both of these? I did notice that and got pretty pumped about it.

https://sbiweb.blob.core.windows.net/media/2065/centruy_irs-2016.pdf
https://sbiweb.blob.core.windows.net/media/1659/drolet_irs-2016.pdf
As far as durability/longevity, no worries SBI (parent company of Drolet and Century) builds decent stuff and they have a good reputation. As an example, they came out with a "clean burn" wood furnace a couple years back that has had widespread cracking issues, they have sent all the people (that I know of) with one that failed, a new furnace...in some cases even with solid proof of the customer improperly installing and/or abusing the furnace.
About the only stoves out there with as much bang-for-the-buck as these two (IMO) is a Englander NC30 stove (not an insert)
To me, the difference between these units and the Osburn, is kinda Ford vs Lincoln or Chevy vs Cadillac, it's just about how much "gingerbread" you want/need.
EDIT: They do all have different install requirements for clearances, etc so that may sway you to one or the other also...read up before buying!

 

[brenndatomu]

Oh, and as far as running 2 stoves...we do that. It works out pretty well but like I said earlier, sometimes I wonder if it really worth the extra money and time/trouble to heat with "100%" wood...if you can shave your heating bill down 90-95%, that is probably good enough for most people...but then wood heat does kinda tend to get into your blood...and then you get all obsessed about "using no oil"

 

[SeanG]

Hi DigitalMC,

Short version: I have the CW2900i and I would buy either of those stoves. If I could have gotten as good a deal on the Droilet I would have gone that route. The main difference I could decipher is that the Droilet has a different blower. According to SBI's customer support the Droilet has a different fan assembly and blower which has a thermodisk that automatically turns the blower on and off. The CW2900i has a simpler blower which is either on or off. The outer shells may be different too. Also, the trim piece that covers the fireplace opening is included in with the CW2900i but you have to pay for it with the Droilet. FWIW, I don't even use mine because I like how it looks without it and I think it heats better too. Someone else on here said that too. YMMV...

Long version: I installed a CW2900i myself last year after buying it from Northern Tool for $999. I had it shipped to the closest store to me for free and had them load it in my Honda Odyssey. It took a little muscle to get it out as the beast is 400 lbs. but I got it installed with a liner from Rockford Chimney Supply and was extremely happy last winter. I have an 1800 sq. foot house with a heat pump (thermostat on second floor set to 68) and two fireplaces. It's basically a four over four layout with a den and garage. Den is behind garage, has two exterior walls (exterior 15' chimney; raised masonry hearth) and only a 33" normal door opening into the kitchen/dinning area.

I'm in Charlottesville, VA so not the coldest locale but we have proper winters as we are at the base of the Blue Ridge mountains. That being said, my heat pump never went on until I stopped using the stove. I had great wood and loaded N/S 90% of the winter with great effect. My splits had to be 16" or less but most of them were. I burned mostly White Ash, a little white oak and a bunch of Eastern Red Cedar that was dry as a bone. I love that stuff. That was mostly my shoulder season wood but even so, that den was about 78 degrees and the kitchen was about 71. Yes, it was hot in the den but the rest of the house was quite comfortable.

I burned 24/7 for weeks at a time and only loaded the stove three times a day during the work week; when I woke up (full load), after work couple of splits if need be and before bed (full load). I do NOT have a block off plate either. Even though the Century Heat installation manual says to have one and their tech support/customer service recommend it (they are great by the way) I just couldn't get it to work with my fireplace. I installed the stove first so it was a huge pain in the but to try and bend the sheet metal etc... so I just said the hell with it and honestly, I don't think I need it for my environment. I also sealed my attic with spray foam in the summer prior to having the stove put in so I am probably retaining a lot more heat than I am wasting not having the block off plate.

Bottom line, these are great stoves. They are basic, not very fancy but I just couldn't spend another $2000 for the Hampton or Pacific Energy that I wanted and I wanted a secondary burner because I like to watch the fire show. I would always have about two hours of great blue and purple secondaries in the evening and I would just vegetate on the couch and watch the show after I put the kids to bed.

I hope that helps you make a decision. Lastly, the ability to burn N/S was a big plus when I was making my decision. I'll probably have to trim some of my wood this year to be able to fit my splits N/S but the benefit WITH THIS STOVE, was that I was able to burn wide open for about 15 minutes and then shut her down gradually after another 15-20 minutes and then go to work and not have to worry about anything for 9 hours.

All the best,

Sean

 

[digitalmc]

Oh, and as far as running 2 stoves...we do that. It works out pretty well but like I said earlier, sometimes I wonder if it really worth the extra money and time/trouble to heat with "100%" wood...if you can shave your heating bill down 90-95%, that is probably good enough for most people...but then wood heat does kinda tend to get into your blood...and then you get all obsessed about "using no oil"

Your input has been crucial. I can see how the 100% heating can be addicting. I'll probably buy one of these and maybe but a small one or the front of the house down the line. The only question now is do I wait for the deal... Thanks for the breakdown!

 

[digitalmc]

Hi DigitalMC,

Short version: I have the CW2900i and I would buy either of those stoves. If I could have gotten as good a deal on the Droilet I would have gone that route. The main difference I could decipher is that the Droilet has a different blower. According to SBI's customer support the Droilet has a different fan assembly and blower which has a thermodisk that automatically turns the blower on and off. The CW2900i has a simpler blower which is either on or off. The outer shells may be different too. Also, the trim piece that covers the fireplace opening is included in with the CW2900i but you have to pay for it with the Droilet. FWIW, I don't even use mine because I like how it looks without it and I think it heats better too. Someone else on here said that too. YMMV...

Long version: I installed a CW2900i myself last year after buying it from Northern Tool for $999. I had it shipped to the closest store to me for free and had them load it in my Honda Odyssey. It took a little muscle to get it out as the beast is 400 lbs. but I got it installed with a liner from Rockford Chimney Supply and was extremely happy last winter. I have an 1800 sq. foot house with a heat pump (thermostat on second floor set to 68) and two fireplaces. It's basically a four over four layout with a den and garage. Den is behind garage, has two exterior walls (exterior 15' chimney; raised masonry hearth) and only a 33" normal door opening into the kitchen/dinning area.

I'm in Charlottesville, VA so not the coldest locale but we have proper winters as we are at the base of the Blue Ridge mountains. That being said, my heat pump never went on until I stopped using the stove. I had great wood and loaded N/S 90% of the winter with great effect. My splits had to be 16" or less but most of them were. I burned mostly White Ash, a little white oak and a bunch of Eastern Red Cedar that was dry as a bone. I love that stuff. That was mostly my shoulder season wood but even so, that den was about 78 degrees and the kitchen was about 71. Yes, it was hot in the den but the rest of the house was quite comfortable.

I burned 24/7 for weeks at a time and only loaded the stove three times a day during the work week; when I woke up (full load), after work couple of splits if need be and before bed (full load). I do NOT have a block off plate either. Even though the Century Heat installation manual says to have one and their tech support/customer service recommend it (they are great by the way) I just couldn't get it to work with my fireplace. I installed the stove first so it was a huge pain in the but to try and bend the sheet metal etc... so I just said the hell with it and honestly, I don't think I need it for my environment. I also sealed my attic with spray foam in the summer prior to having the stove put in so I am probably retaining a lot more heat than I am wasting not having the block off plate.

Bottom line, these are great stoves. They are basic, not very fancy but I just couldn't spend another $2000 for the Hampton or Pacific Energy that I wanted and I wanted a secondary burner because I like to watch the fire show. I would always have about two hours of great blue and purple secondaries in the evening and I would just vegetate on the couch and watch the show after I put the kids to bed.

I hope that helps you make a decision. Lastly, the ability to burn N/S was a big plus when I was making my decision. I'll probably have to trim some of my wood this year to be able to fit my splits N/S but the benefit WITH THIS STOVE, was that I was able to burn wide open for about 15 minutes and then shut her down gradually after another 15-20 minutes and then go to work and not have to worry about anything for 9 hours.

All the best,

Sean

Dude awesome review. I really appreciate it Sean. I'm glad to hear you can make it overnight with the CW2900i. That was one of my biggest fears. I never even considered the block off plate but I may just fashion one out of some tin. Not sure... I'll have to look into what this will take. Do you use a fresh air intake or do you use your house air?

At any rate you've really help me settle in on this guy... I feel much better about my desicion now.

 

[SeanG]

Dude awesome review. I really appreciate it Sean. I'm glad to hear you can make it overnight with the CW2900i. That was one of my biggest fears. I never even considered the block off plate but I may just fashion one out of some tin. Not sure... I'll have to look into what this will take. Do you use a fresh air intake or do you use your house air?

At any rate you've really help me settle in on this guy... I feel much better about my desicion now.

You're welcome. I am glad I can give back as I've learned so much from this site and the wonderfully helpful people here.

I do not have a fresh air intake. My house was built in 1966 so I have plenty of fresh air coming in already. I don't have a vent hood for my stove but once we covert to a gas range we'll put in a vent hood and that may change things but for right now I'm fine.

The only thing I don't like about this stove is that I have to scoop the ashes out more frequently then I'd like. I probably have to do it every 10 days or so. I'm sure I pushed it to 14 or maybe even 20 but I don't like doing it that often. I really wish it was a deep vertically as the Blaze King stoves but it's a shortcoming I can live with given the other positives.

Regarding the overnight burns, I always had plenty of coals in the morning or after work, the stove front (my thermometer is on the door in the top center, it may not be a true representation of the temp of the stove but it's the best I can do) is always warm but never hot and the fan will be blowing warmish air into the room. I simply rake the coals forward to the air intake, crack the door to get a roaring draft to stoke the coals/embers and then add more splits. I'll keep the door cracked while sitting at the stove to ignite the splits (damper wide open at this point as well) and once the splits are burning I'll close the door so that it won't open but it will not be so tight that the gasket is fully sealed. I find this increases the airflow and helps char all the splits nicely before I crank the door shut tight and start turning down the air.

 

[digitalmc]

You're welcome. I am glad I can give back as I've learned so much from this site and the wonderfully helpful people here.

I do not have a fresh air intake. My house was built in 1966 so I have plenty of fresh air coming in already. I don't have a vent hood for my stove but once we covert to a gas range we'll put in a vent hood and that may change things but for right now I'm fine.

The only thing I don't like about this stove is that I have to scoop the ashes out more frequently then I'd like. I probably have to do it every 10 days or so. I'm sure I pushed it to 14 or maybe even 20 but I don't like doing it that often. I really wish it was a deep vertically as the Blaze King stoves but it's a shortcoming I can live with given the other positives.

Regarding the overnight burns, I always had plenty of coals in the morning or after work, the stove front (my thermometer is on the door in the top center, it may not be a true representation of the temp of the stove but it's the best I can do) is always warm but never hot and the fan will be blowing warmish air into the room. I simply rake the coals forward to the air intake, crack the door to get a roaring draft to stoke the coals/embers and then add more splits. I'll keep the door cracked while sitting at the stove to ignite the splits (damper wide open at this point as well) and once the splits are burning I'll close the door so that it won't open but it will not be so tight that the gasket is fully sealed. I find this increases the airflow and helps char all the splits nicely before I crank the door shut tight and start turning down the air.

Great advice... I'm starting to get the itch now. Never thought I'd be excited about winter time. I will probably forgo the fresh air intake. I think this is going to be a winner for sure. Thanks for all the great details!

 

[yooper08]

I also have the CW2900 - unfortunately I can't give you any experience with it as I just got it this year other than I'm excited to use it. This will be my first winter with it.

I was in the same predicament as you (saw the other thread as well). Couldn't/didn't want to spend the extra money on the higher-end models, 1) because what I'm using it for it didn't make sense, and 2) I have a NG boiler, which is cheap to run compared to oil/electric.