Drolet ECO 45 help please

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pete324rocket said:
I get the "p" error every once in awhile and I attribute it to maybe the stack pressure in the flue is too much due to the atmospheric pressure and maybe cuz it is extra cold out,but regardless,it usually goes on the second or third reset. The sensors are there for safety,although they sure can be troublesome.
Annie it is good to see you finally got some justice.It sure took a long time and I don't think I would be as patient. I have to wonder if somehow these defective stoves somehow don't make it back to the factory and end up on someone elses dinner table. Maybe your stove is on a new journey that we will be reading about in a future episode.

I have had this stove for 3 years now I believe the 2nd generation of the eco45 witch changed the convection blowers from the good old hamster wheel"squirl cage" design that may have been a little noisier, to the over sized computer fan style tubaxial blowers witch is subject to bearing failure within 3 seasons

The "P" error issue is caused by the pressure switch, if your stove has been running ok but later after weeks or months if use develops the "P" code you need to clean the rubber air tube & the nipple, ensure that the stove is in the off mode & completely cool, open the left side panel & remove the lower left skirt panel, with your right hand reach in behind the exhaust blower assy (be careful of sharp screws from upper deck) you want to feel the top rear of the blower housing where the rubber air hose pushes on to the blower nipple, with your left hand pull the rubber hose off the nipple from the upper deck compartment, remove the rubber hose from the pressure switch noting witch port it attaches to, check the hose for obstructions & flush with hot water then dry the hose & blow air through it to ensure all the water is out of the hose, next take a very large paper clip about 1/16" diameter & bend it into an "L"shape about 4" x 1.5"

with your right hand in the lower compartment on the blower nipple use your left hand to lower the long end of the paper clip through the square pressure hose hole in the upper deck, use your right hand to guide the paper clip into the nipple, with your left hand run the paper clip up & down 3 or 4 times like a reamer inside the nipple to clear any build up( it should go all the way down with no obstructions), remove the paper clip & with your left hand & lower the rubber hose through the deck hole guiding it onto the nipple with your right hand pushing it all the way down, remove your hands from the stove & connect the other end of the hose to the pressure switch.

if you have the tubaxial convection blowers on your model clean or vac the screens while you have the stove open.

close up the stove & put the paper clip with your stove cleaning tools for future use.

I open each side panel on alternate weeks to vac the intake screens so every 2nd week I open the left side & take the extra 5 minutes to clean the nipple with the paper clip, I have never had to wash the hose again I just pull it off the blower nipple end ream the nipple then replace the hose,this is most important in milder temps when the stove starts & stops several times a day, I have never had a "P" error since.

a few notes on this stove:

Convection blowers are cheap sleeve bearing type that will last 2 to 3 seasons
The fan manufacturer is EBM PAPST model 4600N
you could spend the extra money & buy the EBM PAPST 4606N with ball bearings it should 8 to 10 years but will produce a higher noise level so don't go this route if you sit close to the stove & fan noise bothers you

I bought from newark canada online

The igniter is Tempco brand 120V 300W HDC16484 with 12" leads & QTA terminator but its listed as special item, I am trying to find out if they have a generic that will work as the generics are about $35.00 over the $120.00 SBI wants for their part.

I have read that Aklands Granger USA parts 4NJG6, 2F439, 1PZH2 can be used to make a generic version for about $35.00 but I have not confirmed this.

The burn pot is too thin of stainless so I would recommend buying one through SBI so you have a spare as they will crack from the heat

someone mentioned a repair for the auger motor I would be interested in any info on this, mine is still running great but I know some day it will crap out & the SBI replacement is over $100.00

The last thing is if you have a model that has a lid on the ash drawer & a 1" gap between the stove bottom & the top of the ash drawer you can do a little mod to eliminate the fly ash plume that occurs when you sweep down the ash that gets into the back of the stove & gets blown into the room air by the intake blowers, I will post this later.
 
Wrong....at least in my case. Sure I know about the pressure switch,hose and I love nipples. Did you see my post on removing the left inside baffle for cleaning? See here:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/68380/

I looked at this for a long time in the owners manual until I realized they weren't joking. If they have used "girly screws" get ready for an adventure. I assume you have not been there yet. In hindsight,I think a very good "dremel-type" instrument with a cutting wheel would take care of this much better....but a cold chisel is next in line.I have checked out the new models and they have switched to slotted cap screws,which may or may not come out either. I got a good hold on one of the phillips screws they used on mine and broke the head off....and it still wasn't over.
Anyways,I cleaned out this passage,which was half-full of very fine fly-ash, and the error problem went away.It is the passage to the combustion blower,and of course,it makes sense that the error code is linked to this.

About the auger motor.It should only need bearings. I covered something about this maybe three years ago when mine crapped the bed. Luckily,warranty covered it. It was so noisy,it kept me awake at night and so I think if I recall,I sent a recording of it to the warranty dept. There was a guy on the internet(Kijiji) in Halifax who was rebuilding them,as a business. A good side business and not too complicated,and he didn't charge much.
 
pete324rocket said:
Wrong....at least in my case. Sure I know about the pressure switch,hose and I love nipples. Did you see my post on removing the left inside baffle for cleaning? See here:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/68380/

I looked at this for a long time in the owners manual until I realized they weren't joking. If they have used "girly screws" get ready for an adventure. I assume you have not been there yet. In hindsight,I think a very good "dremel-type" instrument with a cutting wheel would take care of this much better....but a cold chisel is next in line.I have checked out the new models and they have switched to slotted cap screws,which may or may not come out either. I got a good hold on one of the phillips screws they used on mine and broke the head off....and it still wasn't over.
Anyways,I cleaned out this passage,which was half-full of very fine fly-ash, and the error problem went away.It is the passage to the combustion blower,and of course,it makes sense that the error code is linked to this.

About the auger motor.It should only need bearings. I covered something about this maybe three years ago when mine crapped the bed. Luckily,warranty covered it. It was so noisy,it kept me awake at night and so I think if I recall,I sent a recording of it to the warranty dept. There was a guy on the internet(Kijiji) in Halifax who was rebuilding them,as a business. A good side business and not too complicated,and he didn't charge much.

thanks I guess I was lucky my cleanout panel was held on by 10mm hex head screws, I use an original US dirt devil 503 hand vac with the attachment kit for cleaning (the type with the red cloth bag on the back end) makes a perfect vac for cleaning up the glass & inside of the door & ash ledge too, the hose with or without the attachment will go all the way into the cleanout hole, I tried other cheap filter type vac but they plug up & I wanted a small that I could keep behind the stove.
 
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