Drolet ECO 65.

[DV]

Hi. Im new. First post. I have just ordered the drolet eco 65. I will be installing it in my basement and using to help heat my house. Couple basic questions which im sure could be found searching the site but figure i would post anyway. Where would be the best place to find hearth pads and 4 inch piping? Also any advice would be great. Thanks.

 

[smwilliamson]

This unit requires at least 3 feet of vertical venting AND 4" air intake

 

[DV]

The 4inch air intake states it needs to be exterior are for mobile homes only. Is this correct or do all installations require exterior air?

 

[Turbo-Quad]

Whate ever your manual says. Even if it says you dont have to, it only makes sense to do it. You wont regret it, big floor draft eliminator. When I first started burning pellets I couldnt understand why the thermostat said 80 but I was freezing. Hooked up the OAK and 80 feels like 80 now.

 

[76brian]

If you need a hearth pad, it's most economical to make your own. I made mine with 1 layer of 3/4" plywood on the bottom, then 2 layers of concrete board, then topped it off with ceramic floor tile. It was around $60 total. To buy one this size would be at least a few hundred bucks at a hearth shop. One layer of concrete board + tile is thick enough for specs, but I wanted it to be rigid enough to not flex if it's moved.

If you're installing in the basement, I would imagine you have a concrete floor somewhere, in which case you don't need a pad at all as long as any combustible flooring is outside of the clearance your stove requires. If you need it to look nice you can just put the tile directly on the concrete.

 

[DV]

Great advice. Thank you. I m thinking of making a hearth pad with plywood and some leftover patio pavers i have.

 

[DexterDay]

Been looking a this stove as a replacement to my Quad.

Looking forward to some install pics and your thoughts.

Can you post pics of the inside of the stove? Possible heat exchanger pics and also pics of the burn pot?

Welcome to the Forums. Venting from the basement, I would run 4" (even if you could use 3", I wouldnt) vent and also an OAK of similar size. Heating from the basement can be difficult. The 65 is a big unit, with a large distribution blower. Are you gonna use the optional duct kit?

Is your basement area finished (insulated)? If the stove is going on concrete, you dont need a hearth. If going in a finished area, then make sure the Stove doesnt require a pad with a certain R value.

Congrats on the stove.....

 

[DV]

I may use the optional duct kit not sure yet. Iwill install stove in my finished basement area of 650the square feet. The entire basement is insulated and approx 1300 square feet total.not all finished. For now i am going to install an open duct from the basement to my family room directly above the stove.i will experiment and see how well this works to determine if i need to install the duct to force the air upstairs. Once its installwd i will post pics.

 

[Love the Heat]

I may use the optional duct kit not sure yet. Iwill install stove in my finished basement area of 650the square feet. The entire basement is insulated and approx 1300 square feet total.not all finished. For now i am going to install an open duct from the basement to my family room directly above the stove.i will experiment and see how well this works to determine if i need to install the duct to force the air upstairs. Once its installwd i will post pics.

DV...I'm about at the same stage as you are with the same ECO-65.

Can you explain "open duct"???

in my case, I have also ordered the plenum kit and trying to find a magic answer
to see if I should or not hook it up to my existing duct system???

Cheers

 

[DexterDay]

All I will say is, check local codes before you go blasting holes in the floor of your home.

Even if its legal, they should be 10 ft away from the stove itself. There are ducts that have fusible links installed in them. So when they reach a certain temperature, they shut themselves. So that the fire has no means of spreading through that hole and feeding the fire.

Having a freestanding pellet stove for a few yrs and adding a pellet furnace this year. If you can duct that air to where you need it, you will be much happier. Trying to get heat to your living room, from the basement,may be challenging. But if its ducted there. It will be much easier and much more comfortable. IMO

Looking forward to both of your results. How you like them, and how the combustion trim on them work (2 blower exhaust/combustion system). That is a very nice stove, with some great features (>jealous<) ;-P

 

[DV]

I may use the optional duct kit not sure yet. Iwill install stove in my finished basement area of 650the square feet. The entire basement is insulated and approx 1300 square feet total.not all finished. For now i am going to install an open duct from the basement to my family room directly above the stove.i will experiment and see how well this works to determine if i need to install the duct to force the air upstairs. Once its installwd i will post pics.

DV...I'm about at the same stage as you are with the same ECO-65.

Can you explain "open duct"???

in my case, I have also ordered the plenum kit and trying to find a magic answer
to see if I should or not hook it up to my existing duct system???

Cheers

Yes. The open duct would be a vent register attached to the ceiling of my basement then a 2 foot section of sheet metal duct that then attaches to a vent register located on my family room floor. The idea would be to let the heat from the stove that builds up in the basement escape up through the duct into my family room directly above. The registers would also have the capability to shut for the summer. We did this at my cousins 2 story cabin with a wood furnace downstairs and it really helped move the heat to the second floor. I think it would also be effective in this application.

 

[DV]

After a little more review. What I'm going to do first is install the stove and use my central air/heat pump fan motor to move the air aorund my house. I have a return in my basement as well as on my ground level floor. I'm hoping once I heat up the basement I can move the air around the house using the fan. I will experiment with shutting the upstairs return and adjusting different registers in my basement. Any advice would be great. Thanks again.

 

[DexterDay]

Using the fan on the furnace and dragging the air through the cold air return, to the ducts. Will cool the air off considerably. Some people can makr it work. But of your ducts are not insulated, the heat loss will be very high.

Will decrease the temp in the basement. But wont raise the temp much upstairs.

It may work. But it might not. For most, it doesn't work. The temps are not as Hot by the time they hit the duct. Unless you duct it into them, using it as a furnace. Not trying to heat the basement room its in.

Good luck and keep us updated.

 

[DV]

Using the fan on the furnace and dragging the air through the cold air return, to the ducts. Will cool the air off considerably. Some people can makr it work. But of your ducts are not insulated, the heat loss will be very high.

Will decrease the temp in the basement. But wont raise the temp much upstairs.

It may work. But it might not. For most, it doesn't work. The temps are not as Hot by the time they hit the duct. Unless you duct it into them, using it as a furnace. Not trying to heat the basement room its in.

Good luck and keep us updated.

Gonna give it a shot. If it does not work I will install the duct kit and push the hot air directly upstairs. I know that will work. Gotta get the stove set up first.

 

[pete324rocket]

I have the eco-45...pleased with it. Have made a boot that goes over the heat tubes in the front of the stove to a pipe the goes directly to the main floor above to old heat register cut in floor(stove in insulated basement). This is the only way we have been able to be efficient in heating the main floor properly-normal convection, adding fans, etc didn't cut it. Only direct piping will. Cold air register are essential thoughout house for return or that area won't heat up. Save time and install duct kit-it only makes sense.

 

[Love the Heat]

I have the eco-45...pleased with it. Have made a boot that goes over the heat tubes in the front of the stove to a pipe the goes directly to the main floor above to old heat register cut in floor(stove in insulated basement). This is the only way we have been able to be efficient in heating the main floor properly-normal convection, adding fans, etc didn't cut it. Only direct piping will. Cold air register are essential thoughout house for return or that area won't heat up. Save time and install duct kit-it only makes sense.

Thx for your personal experience, really helps me in my decision.

with the ECO-65 and the duct kit, I think I will run 1 of the 2 run upstair and the other one in basement
outside the furnace room. I have cold return throughout the house.
If my furnace room keeps getting too hot, I will do an opening in my return in that room as well.

thx again

 

[DV]

I have the eco-45...pleased with it. Have made a boot that goes over the heat tubes in the front of the stove to a pipe the goes directly to the main floor above to old heat register cut in floor(stove in insulated basement). This is the only way we have been able to be efficient in heating the main floor properly-normal convection, adding fans, etc didn't cut it. Only direct piping will. Cold air register are essential thoughout house for return or that area won't heat up. Save time and install duct kit-it only makes sense.

Thanks for advice. I'm thinking my situation is very similar to yours. That duct kit comes off the stove with 2 registers. i wonder if they make one that has 1 register instead. I would only need 1. If not I will have to install a 2 by 1 adaptor.

 

[Love the Heat]

I have the eco-45...pleased with it. Have made a boot that goes over the heat tubes in the front of the stove to a pipe the goes directly to the main floor above to old heat register cut in floor(stove in insulated basement). This is the only way we have been able to be efficient in heating the main floor properly-normal convection, adding fans, etc didn't cut it. Only direct piping will. Cold air register are essential thoughout house for return or that area won't heat up. Save time and install duct kit-it only makes sense.

Thanks for advice. I'm thinking my situation is very similar to yours. That duct kit comes off the stove with 2 registers. i wonder if they make one that has 1 register instead. I would only need 1. If not I will have to install a 2 by 1 adaptor.

I'm no expert but working the physics of it, the fan CFM is to handle 2 registers so reducing it to 1 could maybe "choke" it
and increase the heat in the plenum way too much????

I would probably ask the question to DROLET on this one, they are pretty quick at answering question....
They told me to not run it into the cold air of my existing duct work, the heat dissipation would be too great
and loose too much of the generated heat...

Voila....

 

[DexterDay]

I have the eco-45...pleased with it. Have made a boot that goes over the heat tubes in the front of the stove to a pipe the goes directly to the main floor above to old heat register cut in floor(stove in insulated basement). This is the only way we have been able to be efficient in heating the main floor properly-normal convection, adding fans, etc didn't cut it. Only direct piping will. Cold air register are essential thoughout house for return or that area won't heat up. Save time and install duct kit-it only makes sense.

Thanks for advice. I'm thinking my situation is very similar to yours. That duct kit comes off the stove with 2 registers. i wonder if they make one that has 1 register instead. I would only need 1. If not I will have to install a 2 by 1 adaptor.

I'm no expert but working the physics of it, the fan CFM is to handle 2 registers so reducing it to 1 could maybe "choke" it
and increase the heat in the plenum way too much????

I would probably ask the question to DROLET on this one, they are pretty quick at answering question....
They told me to not run it into the cold air of my existing duct work, the heat dissipation would be too great
and loose too much of the generated heat...

Voila....

Yep.... Using existing is not a good idea (as stated before) to much heat loss.....

Thats a Huge unit and if installed correctly (ducts going where heat is needed most) they should fit the bill just fine.

Going down to one duct may affect the blower as stated. The staic pressure may need to be in a certain range (my pellet furnace states the # in the manual). I would look in the manual or call Drolet. Worst case scenario. You run one duct upstairs and leave the other off and heat the basement. Or run both upstairs (or run the 2 small ducts together, to one large duct with the same surface area as the 2 little ones)?

Looking forward to your results. Cant wait to see the duct kit!

 

[Love the Heat]

I have the eco-45...pleased with it. Have made a boot that goes over the heat tubes in the front of the stove to a pipe the goes directly to the main floor above to old heat register cut in floor(stove in insulated basement). This is the only way we have been able to be efficient in heating the main floor properly-normal convection, adding fans, etc didn't cut it. Only direct piping will. Cold air register are essential thoughout house for return or that area won't heat up. Save time and install duct kit-it only makes sense.

Thanks for advice. I'm thinking my situation is very similar to yours. That duct kit comes off the stove with 2 registers. i wonder if they make one that has 1 register instead. I would only need 1. If not I will have to install a 2 by 1 adaptor.

I'm no expert but working the physics of it, the fan CFM is to handle 2 registers so reducing it to 1 could maybe "choke" it
and increase the heat in the plenum way too much????

I would probably ask the question to DROLET on this one, they are pretty quick at answering question....
They told me to not run it into the cold air of my existing duct work, the heat dissipation would be too great
and loose too much of the generated heat...

Voila....

Yep.... Using existing is not a good idea (as stated before) to much heat loss.....

Thats a Huge unit and if installed correctly (ducts going where heat is needed most) they should fit the bill just fine.

Going down to one duct may affect the blower as stated. The staic pressure may need to be in a certain range (my pellet furnace states the # in the manual). I would look in the manual or call Drolet. Worst case scenario. You run one duct upstairs and leave the other off and heat the basement. Or run both upstairs (or run the 2 small ducts together, to one large duct with the same surface area as the 2 little ones)?

Looking forward to your results. Cant wait to see the duct kit!

Excellent suggestion Dexter..

 

[DV]

Yes. Good stuff. It all makes sense to me. Good suggestions.

 

[FyreBug]

I may use the optional duct kit not sure yet. Iwill install stove in my finished basement area of 650the square feet. The entire basement is insulated and approx 1300 square feet total.not all finished. For now i am going to install an open duct from the basement to my family room directly above the stove.i will experiment and see how well this works to determine if i need to install the duct to force the air upstairs. Once its installwd i will post pics.

DV...I'm about at the same stage as you are with the same ECO-65.

Can you explain "open duct"???

in my case, I have also ordered the plenum kit and trying to find a magic answer
to see if I should or not hook it up to my existing duct system???

Cheers

The ECO-65 is not certified as an 'add-on' furnace. Therefore you can never hook this up to your current ductwork. The purpose of the ducting kit is for those who have a small house with electrical heat (no ductwork), mobile homes, cabins, warehouse office etc... to distribute the heat.

The Fresh Air intake is also mandatory. The unit has to go through various tests and certifications and this is a requirement.

 

[FyreBug]

I have the eco-45...pleased with it. Have made a boot that goes over the heat tubes in the front of the stove to a pipe the goes directly to the main floor above to old heat register cut in floor(stove in insulated basement). This is the only way we have been able to be efficient in heating the main floor properly-normal convection, adding fans, etc didn't cut it. Only direct piping will. Cold air register are essential thoughout house for return or that area won't heat up. Save time and install duct kit-it only makes sense.

Thanks for advice. I'm thinking my situation is very similar to yours. That duct kit comes off the stove with 2 registers. i wonder if they make one that has 1 register instead. I would only need 1. If not I will have to install a 2 by 1 adaptor.

I'm no expert but working the physics of it, the fan CFM is to handle 2 registers so reducing it to 1 could maybe "choke" it
and increase the heat in the plenum way too much????

I would probably ask the question to DROLET on this one, they are pretty quick at answering question....
They told me to not run it into the cold air of my existing duct work, the heat dissipation would be too great
and loose too much of the generated heat...

Voila....

And the answer is..... NO you cannot block one of the outlet and we cannot make one with just one outlet. Heating appliance are heavily regulated for safety etc... The reason there is 2 outlets and the front plate from the kit does not block 100% of the unit heat exchange exhaust is that if one outlet gets blocked for whatever reason the temps in the other outlet will not go past a certain safety level.

 

[DV]

I have the eco-45...pleased with it. Have made a boot that goes over the heat tubes in the front of the stove to a pipe the goes directly to the main floor above to old heat register cut in floor(stove in insulated basement). This is the only way we have been able to be efficient in heating the main floor properly-normal convection, adding fans, etc didn't cut it. Only direct piping will. Cold air register are essential thoughout house for return or that area won't heat up. Save time and install duct kit-it only makes sense.

Thanks for advice. I'm thinking my situation is very similar to yours. That duct kit comes off the stove with 2 registers. i wonder if they make one that has 1 register instead. I would only need 1. If not I will have to install a 2 by 1 adaptor.

I'm no expert but working the physics of it, the fan CFM is to handle 2 registers so reducing it to 1 could maybe "choke" it
and increase the heat in the plenum way too much????

I would probably ask the question to DROLET on this one, they are pretty quick at answering question....
They told me to not run it into the cold air of my existing duct work, the heat dissipation would be too great
and loose too much of the generated heat...

Voila....

And the answer is..... NO you cannot block one of the outlet and we cannot make one with just one outlet. Heating appliance are heavily regulated for safety etc... The reason there is 2 outlets and the front plate from the kit does not block 100% of the unit heat exchange exhaust is that if one outlet gets blocked for whatever reason the temps in the other outlet will not go past a certain safety level.

Sounds correct to me. For my application the best bet would be to leave one duct open at the stove to heat basement and then run the other duct directly upstairs as Dexter stated.

 

[pete324rocket]

The stove will make plenty of heat to heat the basement without the added outlet. Do what your brain says and put the heat where you live and need it to be comfortable. Blocking one hole off would not cause me to lose very much sleep, and you will find this out by trial.It is a more rugged stove than mine.It should be therefore at least more apt to handle this. May I suggest a magnetic temp gauge on the front of the stove for real safety.