Dutchwest 2479...thoughts??

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Dumbfishguy said:
I have the2478 just put it in did 2 breaken s in june . Come on winter

Definitely let us know what you think of it when winter comes, and post any questions. You are not in a super cold climate zone so you might have a little trouble with easy consistent operation but things should be OK during the coldest parts of winter (you aren't THAT much further south than me...).

I hope you have REALLY dry wood (stuff that was split and sitting out to dry, off the ground, since last spring or better). You mentioned pallet wood in another post - this is a really good idea, I would go ahead and cut up a LOT of pallet wood, it will compensate for poorly seasoned wood and really get those temps up for efficient burning. I think pallet wood is one of those "secrets" of successful wood burning, personally. Even when you do have good seasoned wood, it make for great fire starting. And most people can get pallets for free, just have to be real careful when cutting it up, often lots of nails.
 
sullystull said:
I have found a Vermont Castings Dutchwest 2479 non-cat stove for sale. One year old, $850. Is this a fair price? Going to look at the stove tomorrow. Thoughts, comments, suggestions??????

I have a medium dutchwest in my shop 1600 sq ft two story. It equals the performance on my jotul f500 in my house, same sq ft. My brother and my son have the same stove and have had nothing but excellent results. Mine burns clean, and long. full load of oak in the dead of winter a good 7 hrs or longer. I think the people that have had problems either have chimney issues or wood issues.
 
I have a medium dutchwest in my shop 1600 sq ft two story. It equals the performance on my jotul f500 in my house, same sq ft. My brother and my son have the same stove and have had nothing but excellent results. Mine burns clean, and long. full load of oak in the dead of winter a good 7 hrs or longer. I think the people that have had problems either have chimney issues or wood issues

hanko, what kind of setup do you have for your DW? vertical or horizontal flue connection, internal/external chimney of masonry or classA, effective chimney height. Do you also burn 24x7 in winter or a casual burner? (sounds like the former)

From all the other threads, in addition to a good setup, I've found this stove requires 'more perfect' wood & outdoor conditions and is also far more sensitive to the coal depth and split orientation than other stoves. Admittedly, its my first downdraft style non-cat and there is a learning curve around that to be sure, but still find this stove far more finicky than every other cat/non cat stove I've ever used. But as you said, once ya get a good burn, its a darn effective full-home heating stove
 
class a chimney straight up total legnth approx 16 ft. about 3 ft above the peak. very good draft. I burn both stoves 24-7. I actually find my jotul more finicky and wood fussy than the DW. maybe Im one of the lucky ones. I also think I have a very good set up on the chimney and installation. I did add and out side air sourse, cause my shop is very tight with the few windows and insulatuion (dense pack foam). $$$$$$$ but worth it. not quite 2 cords of wood per year. 3 in the jotul for the house
 
I was going to guess that you had a vertical setup. So far the users that I've spoken with on this forum and others who have had the best success have a vertical exit & non-masonry chimneys. I have the exact opposite with a horizontal exit and a thick masonry (cement block w/ clay liner) chimney. From a cool/cold start, it takes about 2-3 hours before the masonry heats up enough to draft well enough to close the bypass. There certainly are times when I can do it in half that time if conditions are perfect. But even in 24x7 conditions with a thick coal bed, heated stack, dry seasoned red oak, etc, I still can get the infamous everburn 'stall' which goes from smokeless emissions to smoke dragon in about 30 seconds.
 
Hanko said:
class a chimney straight up total legnth approx 16 ft. about 3 ft above the peak. very good draft. I burn both stoves 24-7. I actually find my jotul more finicky and wood fussy than the DW. maybe Im one of the lucky ones. I also think I have a very good set up on the chimney and installation. I did add and out side air sourse, cause my shop is very tight with the few windows and insulatuion (dense pack foam). $$$$$$$ but worth it. not quite 2 cords of wood per year. 3 in the jotul for the house

Yea - you pretty much have an ideal setup for strong draft, not to mention you are in Michigan which is another factor in the success you have experienced. You may in fact have too much draft, particularly on very cold days. You mentioned 7 hours packed w/ OAK. BurningIsLove & I have been able to get 10 hour burns. Modifying the air intake is highly controversial, but it might be something you want to at least look into, it may even be easier with your outside air connection. See the threads on "Florida Bungalow Syndrome"
 
BurningIsLove said:
sullystull said:
Well...I bit the bullet and bought the DW 2479. I brought it home this evening and hooked it up. Thankfully, its a cool evening here in the WV mountains which gave me an opportunity to try it out. The first fire is going as I type this post. Everything seems to be okay. I'll keep you posted as I try to figure out the everburn system.

Definitely keep up posted, very curious to see how it works out for ya. I dont close the bypass (aka everburn) most times until winter conditions w/ long burn times needs. The thick cast iron makes it so I can burn a quick, hot fire w/ the bypass open (works great & VERY easily in this configuration) which will produce useful heat during the early winter/late spring when you dont need to burn 24x7.

If you are a 24x7 burner like tradergordo and myself and have a setup w/ decent draft, you wont find the the everburn as frustrating or difficult after some training time. If you just burn occasionally or not 24x7, you probably wont ever get the performance out of it that you want. The stove is REALLY geared for 24x7 burners in cold winters.

I will keep you posted as the winter creeps on. Thanks for the tips. The previous owner had cracked the side refractory (surprisingly not the one on the side loading door...but on the right side). I just purchased the castable refractory cement from Rutland and will be relying heavily on Tradergordo's detailed instructions on how to cast a new one.

I am a 24/7 burner and anticipate smooth burning this winter (fingers crossed). I am fortunate enough to live at a reasonably high elevation (3,500 ft--not bad for wv) and hopefully the strong winds and colder temps will be adequate for this temperamental stove. I had previously experienced a poor stack set up with my old smoke dragon. I recently had my masonry chimney lined with an insulated stainless liner...that, in conjunction with a new stove will hopefully treat us better from here on out.
 
Regardless of how much of a learning curve you have w/ secondary combustion, I guarantee that the stove will keep your place toasty warm. :)
 
If I and and these Holz Hausen's have anything to do with it...we'll be warm
 

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As I also stated, my $1200 douchewest preforms as well as my $2200 jethro tull (jotul)
 
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