dutchwest blues

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pilgrimtt

New Member
Mar 4, 2010
5
central mn
My Dutchwest 2461 is just finishing season number 6. It is all warped on top. The bypass won't even open. Any of you folks gone to the trouble to rebuild one of these? or should I junk it?
 
get a big steel unit: LOPI, PE, Etc... If you like the downdraft aspect, get a Harman... stay away from DW
 
I just bought one about the same age. It has no warped parts, but the bottom grate is cracked. It was completely taken appart re-cemented, new gaskets and repainted. Looks brand new. The guy who rebuilt it is an installer/repairman for a stove shop. He seems to really take pride in his work. He said they come appart fairly easily. Expect to strip out and break some bolts. Taps and drills may be necessary. If you like how it heats, rebuilding it may be worth it in my opinion. What parts on top are warped?
Some people may try to make you feel like the Dutchwests are the only stoves that have ever had warped metal. Don't be fooled, both cast iron and steel, when heated up enough will warp. Some less or more than others. The parts for the DW are not the cheapest made or the most expensive. In fact, the guy who rebuilt my stove had a Jotul in his shop that had two cast iron firebox pieces that were being replaced due to warpage. These were his words: "I don't care what anybody says, if you heat primarily with a wood stove, parts will eventually warp, no matter what the brand." No stove is indestructible, afterall there's some pretty freaky stuff that goes on inside them when you burn 24/7! Good luck, if you decide to rebuild it, I can ask the guy some questions for you. Such as: good price for parts, tricks to take them appart, etc...
PM me if you wish.
 
A warped top and a rebuild required in season 6. Junk it and get into the groove with something that has a more reputable name. Learn about using thermometers and over firing etc.... All that can be learned here. You will be $ ahead with happier results to boot. Cheers.
 
My brother in law has a Consolidated Dutchwest nearly 15 yo and the family loves it. Heats their entire 28k home and to my knowledge has never been rebuilt. I mention that because I'm pretty sure he would rebuild that stove before getting a new one.

Their home is in an airport landing approach so the airport authority pays for super insulation and windows for noise abatement.
 
WTF, are we gonna start this crap again.
 
I would buy a new stove personally. I have sold the Dutchwest stoves on and off for over 20 years. They have always been a "decent" stove with had way to many parts when compared to other stoves. I would own one being that I'm in the business and all, but I wouldn't want to sell one to a customer. Sure, any stove can warp, any car can have a sticky gas pedal and the finest eatery can give you food poisoning. I just like to play the odds. For me, traditionally, the CDWs lacked the durability of a lot of other stoves out there..thats just my observation and opinion.
 
Hanko said:
WTF, are we gonna start this crap again.
LMAO, Hanko, :lol: !!!
As Dutchwest owners we know these things work. and work well. Watch the temperatures, don't overfire it, operate it the way it should be operated, and it will serve you right. I'm new with the Dutchwest, but have noticed that the pipe temps can go form 250 to 650 in a matter of seconds. The fire is directly going up the flue hitting the damper bypass on its way up. If you have a roaring fire with a loaded firebox, the flames can go a foot or more up the connector pipe on a top vent hook up. You HAVE to watch the fires and pipe temps closely because if they are constantly high in the reload process this CAN cause parts to warp. Any metal when exposed to extreme temps a couple times a day for six burning seasons would warp. You have to establish the fire slowly, over the period of a half an hour, in order not to overfire, like any other stove. The manufacturer recommends operating the stove according to side loading door temperatures. IMO, this is not the only place you should have a thermometer. Temperatures going up fue flue collar can go up much quicker without being detected by the side door thermometer, and achieve overfire temps of 600 and beyond very quickly while the door is still under 400. My Rutland thermometer has a burn zone range of ~ 280-570. If you put one as low as possible on your pipe connector this will indicate the temps near the damper. Keep the temps there less than 600 and you will increase the life of your damper. In my case a blower fan has also helped lower the temps and distribute the heat. The $140 was a good investment IMO.
I'll say it again, there may be better stoves out there, but I'd love to see a thread about THE BEST STOVE on the market. It's all on the eye of the beholder. If your Dutchwest has heated yor house well, it may be worth rebuilding the stove, if you do it yourself. I guess it would depend on how many parts you have to replace. Sorry about the long winded post, I hope it helps.
 
I hope when mine finally gives up, ILL be out of this winter wonderland as they call it. As ive said till im blue in the face, there are three of the DW's in my family and we have all had good luck. with good seasoned wood and a good chimney and most of all, average intellegence, i think they work fine. No problems with mine, 5 th year now. You can F up an iron ball if you try hard enough,
 
pilgrimtt said:
My Dutchwest 2461 is just finishing season number 6. It is all warped on top. The bypass won't even open. Any of you folks gone to the trouble to rebuild one of these? or should I junk it?
If the costs of replacement parts exceeds the original cost of the stove or the cost of a new different brand, buy a new stove. Right now you can get Englanders for clearance prices as low as $599.
 
I loved my 2460 Dutchwest, but I'll agree that a lot of the inner top parts, which are exposed to the HIGH temperatures of the catalytic combustor, are very subject to warping and cracking.
 
Hum, 4 post and your a big talker. I said average intell, looks like that counts you out
 
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