Dutchwest - Everburn not kicking in

[branchburner]

Downdraft stove designs are not user-friendly, regardless of user IQ. Period.
Downdraft stove refractories are not highly durable, regardless of user IQ. Period.

I think my downdraft stove is great, too, but it does not change those two facts.

 

[ecocavalier02]

Downdraft stove designs are not user-friendly, regardless of user IQ. Period.
Downdraft stove refractories are not highly durable, regardless of user IQ. Period.

I think my downdraft stove is great, too, but it does not change those two facts.

+1

 

[Engineer2]

My fountain appears to be in pretty good shape .. I edited your fountain image. see the yellow lines. This passage on both sides is clear. I thought that
was the was it is supposed to be. Notice the red area, are you saying that there IS supposed to be some other like of wall inside this?
If there is some other kind of baffle that is supposed to be there, well that explains my problem. There is are no additional walls inside the fountian. Just
the two openings (which are clear) that I indicated with the yellow lines.
The distributor told me that this is not covered.....I should ask again or possibly send a note to VC and ask.

 

[bsa0021]

If my memory is correct from two years ago, there should be an opening were you drew your red box. I extended your yellow line to show the path of the gases (Both sides are the same of course). I also included the opposite side of the fountain. I'm not sure how you checked the condition of the flue as you describe. Did you remove the back refractory from the inside of the stove? When I took my fountain out, it came out in several pieces. The pictures you see are after I pieced the puzzle back together. Did youfind any cracks anywhere in the stove?

 

[bsa0021]

The original warranty was lifetime and two years ago the fountain was warranted but I think it was only 2 or 5 years. However, with all the trouble the company has had they may have eliminated covering the fountain altogether. If this is the case, you may be out of luck.
Before you spend $300/400 on a fountain, make sure you do not have any other issues. On my stove, one year after replacing the fountain the corners of the damper door cracked. I could have repaired this but I doubt my new fountain would last more than a few years which was more money than I wanted to put into the stove. Also, I found a Englander NC13 that was burned twice for $300 and it seemed like my best option. I'm finally getting time to install it.

 

[Engineer2]

Hi bas0021,
There are no other cracks anywhere that I can see. I did have the top off so I had a good view of the damper door and it is fine.
I did not actually the the fountain off. This thing does indeed seem pretty fragile, so I have only inspected it in place with the center shoe
off of course.
I am reluctant to spend the 300/400 dollars if i'm not really sure this is the problem.
The stove is just starving for air once the damper is closed. It really has trouble maintaining a small flame and the temp will continue to fall.
It burns, but with a lethargic flame.
I have used this stove for 6 seasons with pretty good results. This situation has not happened before. For this reason I really believe that there is something
drastically worn somewhere, I simply cannot find it.
:-(
I'm actually thinking of just getting a new stove......and possibily changing to pellets .....

Thanks,
John

 

[webby3650]

Hi bas0021,
There are no other cracks anywhere that I can see. I did have the top off so I had a good view of the damper door and it is fine.
I did not actually the the fountain off. This thing does indeed seem pretty fragile, so I have only inspected it in place with the center shoe
off of course.
I am reluctant to spend the 300/400 dollars if i'm not really sure this is the problem.
The stove is just starving for air once the damper is closed. It really has trouble maintaining a small flame and the temp will continue to fall.
It burns, but with a lethargic flame.
I have used this stove for 6 seasons with pretty good results. This situation has not happened before. For this reason I really believe that there is something
drastically worn somewhere, I simply cannot find it.
:-(
I'm actually thinking of just getting a new stove......and possibily changing to pellets .....

Thanks,
John

You could change stoves with success, but change to pellets and we will see a thread titled "What have I done?" :ahhh:

 

[pyper]

When I started the stove with the from door open, it fires up well and in short time reads over 400. At 450 I closed the damper
and did not hear the typical roar that the secondary burn produced. Shortly after the damer is closed the flame becomes lethargic.
The tempature continually drops until it reaches 250 to 275.

Sometimes mine works just fine, but sometimes it does what you describe. In my case, it seems to be due to the wood, how dry it is, and what type it is.

 

[Engineer2]

Hi Pyper,
Yep, I realize that this stove is picky as far as the wood is concerned. I've actually had pretty good success for the past few years.
Now, it simply will not sustain a fire once the damper is closed (air control is all the way up.....I almost never burned it with the air control all the way up
because the fire would burn too quickly.)
Something has changed and I cannot figure out what it is.
Really, if I cannot figure out what is wrong, I'm thinking pellets

-- John

 

[bsa0021]

Check the intake air openings and make sure the holes in the refractory are open. Insert an opened paper clip into each hole. If you still can't get the stove to operate properly, then there isn't anything else remaining except a piece of the fountain broke off and is blocking the chamber.
Since you have owned this stove for 5 years, I am assuming that your wood is properly dry and your flue is clean.
You could also contact VC and/or the dealer to see what they think the problem could be.