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E-Classic 2300 -working out the bugs

Post in 'The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces' started by No Smoke, Jan 18, 2009.

  1. kenkressin

    kenkressin New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2008
    Messages:
    18
    Loc:
    Minnesota
    After 3 months, my side firebrick was buldging out. I removed the four worst ones, and the more intense heat melted a 1/2 inch wall of creosote away. I was then able to scrape it clean and fully insert the brick back in. Thus, I think the creosote coming down the wall sides is working its way behind the brick. I plan to try keeping the brick in for the time being. I have been fairly satisfied with the 2300 so far, but there are many design changes which really should have been made first. I agree that this unit looks rushed to market and I bought a CB because I was expecting better. I did pay top dollar and I am a bit disappointed.

    Here is a list of design issues I encountered:
    1) Box fire brick buldging
    2) Heavy firebox creosote seems part of the design, although it burns clean
    3) Leak in flange above pump wrecks pump (water drips right into pump electronics).
    4) Insulation in back of unit is user installed, yet critical to be done right to prevent freezing or over-insulating pump motor
    5) Areas (crevases) in firebox difficult to clean
    6) No included alarm system to detect power failure, pump failure, or low fire which could result in poor operating or frozen system
    7) Damper door difficult to open
    8) Light above door gets smoke covered quickly
    9) Need to stir bottom coals and ashes to prevent air holes from plugging
    10) Damper only slightly prevents fire from rolling out the front door
    11) Reactor chamber bricks came loose.
    12) Reaction chamber door and cover design is awkward (removing cover, where to put while cleaning, etc)
    13) Color of unit helps it look rather ugly as it gets "dirty"
    14) Better insulated thermopex with real specification on how much energy is lost
    15) Better integration with existing boilers - mine has been poor, Pumps need to be matched, prevent boiler from firing, etc.
    16) Better sealing adjustment system on door.
    17) Less power consumption of fan - mine runs on "low" always, but the design simply partially "plugs" the fan opening which I bet is not the best design.

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  2. antos_ketcham

    antos_ketcham Member

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2008
    Messages:
    155
    Sorry to hear folks are having issues. Mine has been working fine and I am pretty happy so far - knock on wood. I took my fire bricks out and I took out the middle grate as CB recommended. All running well. I think my biggest challenge is not getting fumigated when I load it. I had this problem with my Greenwood as well. Despite my concerns, I think for next winter I am going to increase my chimney to 4 or 5 sections. I have 3 now. With the increased draft it may reduce the fumigation factor. For now I am wearing a respirator when loading. Anyone else have any lung saving recommendations with their units?

    Good luck everyone.

    Pete
  3. logjammed

    logjammed Member

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2008
    Messages:
    63
    Loc:
    western ma
    Pete, I try to load when under burn and let bypass run open a little bit before opening door. I assume you have done that also and that your loading sometimes when full of wood and blower off. that's the worst and i try to avoid those times. then it's an extra trip outside. I am also happy with the unit at this time and just thinking about how long i am going to burn for DHW. also what mods to make his off season. has anybody got extra storage tied into unpressurized boiler loop???
  4. ecrane99

    ecrane99 New Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2008
    Messages:
    57
    Loc:
    CT

    I am happy with mine so far. My biggest challange is keeping the creosote clear of the 2 rear air holes (those holes are not the primary air feed, so no biggie). I agree, cleaning this rig requires googles and a respirator.
    I also have water that turned light brown over the winter and seems to contain clear globuals -Like grease (i will change that this summer = i may have added just a bit too much water treatment).
    Other tham some minor annoyances, the unit burns over 24hrs before needing a reload and keeps the house nice and toasty with minimal smoke output.
  5. rpote

    rpote New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2008
    Messages:
    14
    Loc:
    Adirondacks - Lake George, NY
    I agree, my EC2300 has run pretty well this winter. Startup in November and we'll probably end up with 10 full cords burned in Adirondacks so not too bad. I think, based on my reading all the posts on both this and the forestry forum, that some lemons definitely got out of the CB shop. It sounds like John's unit was a really bad one. I didn't install thermopex and I am paying for it (lots of melted snow areas on top of ditch) I suspect after digging up the 180' of underground line this coming summer and doing it right with 1" thermopex my consumption will drop further (anyone spray insulated their pex? cost vs. thermopex?). This is on a house that used, on average, 1800 gal/yr of oil so my payback is still about 4-5yrs. Not too bad.

    Pulled bricks out of firebox. I just found two of the tubulators burned off at ends. When I emailed by dealer he said they should be warranted by any CB dealer (he's not what I call "customer-oriented"). Anyone have tubulator damage? Curious.

    Craig - did you use fireplace grates from the house? Standard size or something special?
  6. Johnbull

    Johnbull Member

    Joined:
    May 30, 2008
    Messages:
    18
    Loc:
    Central PA
    Sorry, didn't catch your question sooner. I used cast iron grate curved somewhat with the appearance of a rib cage. Worked well but noticed that the temperature didn't seem to be holding at the end of the burn- before reloading. Pulled it out for now but will continue to experiment. Still having side firebrick issues. They keep being forced out by the creosote. Does anyone have knowledge of an alleged CB bulletin that says the bricks can be removed and it is ok to operate without. Was told the new units come with out brink on the side walls but that is still rumor to me.

    Craig Ormsby
    Martinsburg PA
  7. No Smoke

    No Smoke New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2009
    Messages:
    12
    Loc:
    Shantytownn
    January 2010 UPDATE Much happier with the stove this season- changed out the pumps that the dealer had put on- asked our plumber friend about our concerns and asked him to take a look at the pumps- he saw what pumps were installed and had a fit- apparently they were bottom of the line and could not push much water- we changed them and have had good luck keeping water temp up. Have burned less wood- maybe 4+ times less wood than last year at this time!!!!! For some reason the electric bill also is way down- probably blower or pumps are running less?????? Sad thing is that we had to figure everything out pretty much on our own and with the help of message boards and friends- seemed like the company just wanted the sale- and apparently had not done any of their own testing! Also- we early purchase people missed the tax break for buying one!!! How is everyone else doing?????????????????
  8. ISeeDeadBTUs

    ISeeDeadBTUs Guest

    I see E-classics springing up around here, but haven't had a chance to talk to any operators.

    As already posted, the fact that CB has told operators to remove firebrick indicates that they didn't test these things very well(or not at all) and they probably didn't design them either.

    When it comes to sales/service, I found that my local dealer sucks. But I'm glad they do. It kept me from buying one of their units. I would NOT want to burn that much wood :gulp:
  9. FBKS

    FBKS New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2008
    Messages:
    3
    Loc:
    North Pole, AK
    Hi, 5 of us have these e-classic units here in interior AK, bought them last year so this is the second heating season. We have had similar issues and every time it came back to the wood not being dry -- I know that you said your wood had been under a roof & so had some of ours but WELL seasoned wood make these things work way better!! Get a moisture meter & check your wood or go buy a cord of really dry stuff and try that. 20 cords is to much though, I have not burned that much this year on a marginally insulated house/garage (2,500 SF) that my daughter likes warm. I like mine, have not turned on the oil boiler yet this year, the pumps will use some power, just look at your data sheet with the pump, it will let you expected usage or buy an inexpensive plug in meter and measure it for a few days. Let us know what works, PM me if you have specific questions, would be glad to help if we can.
  10. shagy

    shagy New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2009
    Messages:
    81
    Loc:
    N NY
    Wonder when was the last time he talked to his dealer??? There have been some updates on those early boilers. Dealer did some work on my neighbors this fall and what a difference
  11. No Smoke

    No Smoke New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2009
    Messages:
    12
    Loc:
    Shantytownn
    Dealer says he will get to us with our concerns- its summer 2010- apparently if there are fixes---- we do not get the information- will have to stay active on this board!
    He says there are some kind of holes the company says to drill in the thing-

    I'm posting concerns for my husband- we loved it this winter but now find the inside of the thing is melted in the bottom- will know more after the dealer checks it out-

    this has been a time consuming investment- and a big investment at that!

    Thanks to all who share experiences!
  12. shagy

    shagy New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2009
    Messages:
    81
    Loc:
    N NY
    "we loved it this winter" Why would a dealer fix something that works? Why didnt you call your dealer when you received the diverter valve and the instructions on adding the extra holes a few months ago? Did you call your dealer when you noticed the fusion chamber "melted" I sure would have but I bet you didn't. Do you know your dealers phone #?
  13. No Smoke

    No Smoke New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2009
    Messages:
    12
    Loc:
    Shantytownn
    "Why would a dealer fix something that works? Why didnt you call your dealer when you received the diverter valve and the instructions on adding the extra holes a few months ago? Did you call your dealer when you noticed the fusion chamber “melted” I sure would have but I bet you didn’t. Do you know your dealers phone #? "

    Actually we did get in touch with him about the damage we recently noticed and he is coming to look at it. It is shut down for the summer. Are you implying that it really doesnt need to be fixed or that it is not anything to be concerned about? Hate to bother him if its just suppose to be that way. Looks like its just not right-it worked this winter but hate to have problems in the middle of next winter.

    As for a diverter valve- have no idea what your speaking of, am sure he will explain it to my husband along with explaining the extra holes- have not received any literature about this- dealer knows we have had concerns and what model it is so I expect he would get to us with those fixes if they are of importance. Phones work both ways and he has our number and am sure he will try to keep his customer happy so quit the blame game- its the product thats broke and we all just want a good outcome-
  14. shagy

    shagy New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2009
    Messages:
    81
    Loc:
    N NY
    [quote author="larry4406" date="1233334370"]I am interested in the E-Classic 2300. I have been surfing this site and another site for quite some time http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?board=50.0 This other site seems to have a lot of E-2300 users. Apparently this unit is having teething pains. In particular, the threads on the other site dicuss:

    - the fire bricks have been falling off (apparently new units are being shipped without)
    - failure of bricks (cracking and loosening) in the reaction chamber
    - Cracking of welds on the draft door

    Is this unit really that bad?[/quote
    The early 2300s had some issues. Many people that went by the book did alright. I have #28 and no upgrades. Works great as long as dry wood is used and cleaned as instructed.The fusion chamber on early ones did not hold up. Mine is still in good shape.Had it for 2 and 1/2 winters. Burn about 5 to 6 cord of wood per yr.There is a update on those who call dealers and inform them of this. That has been totally redesigned in the 2400.The firebrick was removed in the firebox because it traps moisture behind them if furnace falls below 150 deg causing corrosion. After seeing the 2400 any novice can easily see the improvement. Look at the E2400 or the E1400.
  15. bobbys

    bobbys New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2010
    Messages:
    15
    Loc:
    Central N.H.
    I've been using my new e-classic for the last 2 weeks and I'm pretty happy now that I seem to be getting over the learning curve.
    My story is interesting. While delivering my owb this spring, my (not C.B's) delivery guy dropped it in my driveway requiring me to send the unit back to C.B. for repairs. While at the factory, they upgraded my 2009 model. They took out the firebricks, drilled more holes in the firebox, put a raised plate against the door, hung bars on firebox side to keep wood away from air holes. I may be missing a couple of things here, but these are some of the changes that have been made on the new models.

    My only complaint at this point is that on warmer days (50 degrees plus) I'm losing my bed of coals when the boiler sits idle for 3 or 4 hours straight. It's easily re-ignited with some kindling and a little newspaper. Some times just leaving the door open for a few minutes does the trick. I have heard of the solenoid paper clip trick, but I've ordered the pulse air kit trying to do the right thing.
    I think once we get some cold weather and I have my d.h.w. hooked in this problem will go away with a steady call for heat.
    Hope to hear from other 2300 owners.
  16. shagy

    shagy New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2009
    Messages:
    81
    Loc:
    N NY
    You need to change the pulse on controller. The stove needs have air injected about every 20 min and for 40 t0 50 seconds. Or it will go out when on a lite load
  17. ISeeDeadBTUs

    ISeeDeadBTUs Guest

    Lol, NoSmoke, pay no attention to shagy. He's a salesman. And as you can tell from his attitude, he's obviously a CB salesman.

    Keep posting your experiences and questions here. Some of the people who actually KNOW something about these units - and don't stand to make any pecuniary returns off you - will help you out.

    Rock on.
  18. shagy

    shagy New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2009
    Messages:
    81
    Loc:
    N NY
    Well I own 2 of these and would think I would know more about it than the little lady.
    I have updated one(last winter)but the other one has not been . They both work fine as is. Why? Maybe I know what Im talking about. Heaven forbid anyone listen to there dealer. They sure do not anything about there product.
    On Feb 23rd 10 these owners were mailed the updates and what to look for that are in question.The husben amitted this .
    As with all other owners on here of other brands there is a learning curve.We see all different brands having problems. Is it the stoves fault or the owner? Probably the owner.
    I think these people are getting much better treatment from CB than what Greenwood owners are getting from Greenwood.Dont ya think?
  19. shagy

    shagy New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2009
    Messages:
    81
    Loc:
    N NY
    Well I own 2 of these and would think I would know more about it than the little lady.
    I have updated one(last winter)but the other one has not been . They both work fine as is. Why? Maybe I know what Im talking about. Heaven forbid anyone listen to there dealer. They sure do not anything about there product.
    On Feb 23rd 10 these owners were mailed the updates and what to look for that are in question.The husband admitted this .
    As with all other owners on here of other brands there is a learning curve.We see all different brands having problems. Is it the stoves fault or the owner? Probably the owner.
    I think these people are getting much better treatment from CB than what Greenwood owners are getting from Greenwood.Dont ya think?
  20. bobbys

    bobbys New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2010
    Messages:
    15
    Loc:
    Central N.H.
    I did receive my pulse controller but haven't had a chance to install it yet. Mine didn't come with one.

    I've noticed a big difference with my bed of coals this weekend as high temps. stayed in the upper 30's/lower 40's while lows were in the upper 20's. No problems with the coals going out, everything burned completely overnight.
    I suppose what's helping too is that my DHW is being produced by the OWB now.
    One more positive factor is that I've been burning marginally seasoned pine and various hardwoods I've found already down in the woods. If this stuff is burning well, I'm sure when the real cold comes my seasoned wood will be even better.

    Seems like the e-classic prefers any wood over about 4" to be split

    Are you guys using Ashtrol?
  21. Como

    Como Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2008
    Messages:
    866
    Loc:
    Colorado
    There is one installed not far from me, burning mainly pine. I was speaking to the dealer and asked how much wood they were going to be using. I did not get a reply.

    Now there were 3 propane furnaces each about 330,000 btus gross. The Central Boiler brochure says it can replace up to 800 gallons of fuel oil, so assuming this would be maxed out that is about 100m btus a month.

    Pine is about 17m btu's a cord, so 6 cords multiplied by efficiency, 50%? So 12 cords a month for now until May ish. I do not think the owner has thought through exactly how much will be going through this puppy.

    I know it has a big firebox, but is this even physically plausible?
  22. ISeeDeadBTUs

    ISeeDeadBTUs Guest

    Hows it gonna gasify with the load door always open? :coolsmile:

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