Econoburn 100 Nozzle length

[NNYorker]

Installation complete 11/22 with no problems. Gasification achieved with a little guidance by nofo and his fire start post. Wood is far from ideal as I get the burger "sizzle" while burn takes place. Still learning to maintain a good fire--size of wood load, weather, heat demand......

Looked in secondary burn chamber at nozzle and measured the nozzle length at 5 3/4". Refractory has mold imprint of what appears to be a longer length nozzle of approx. 7 3/4" . One end of the nozzle is square while the other is angled with an outline of a larger nozzle opening???? Any thoughts? Curious if this is a factory screw up or not. Any 100 owners have any measurements?

No storage yet--idle temp right off flue with magnetic therm.--150-160*. Scraping creosote off primary door ledge to keep off door gasket.

Anybody tweaking the Pri./Sec. air adjustments like the EKO's--would be nice to have a reference like the EKO manual.

Pictures to follow...

 

[antknee2]

Hi Jim
I just measured the nozzle in the secondary combustion chamber it is 5 3/4'' like yours . Taking advice from Dale at Econoburn I leave the primary air factory setting { fully open } . I played around with the secondary air settings and ended up back at factory settings which 3 1/2 turns out from fully closed position . Jim are you happy with the heat output so far ? If you were to take some of the wood and split it in half and measure the moisture what is the reading ? Are you getting clean secondary combustion ?
Anthony

 

[Piker]

The portion of the refractory that does the job of gasification is the small ceramic insert at the bottom of the top burn chamber... it is imbedded inside the rest of the refractory, which is made from a different mix than the insert. The opening into the secondary burn chamber is not critical, and may vary a little bit from boiler to boiler depending, I suppose, on placement of the form used to cast the refractory.

Creosote buildup in the burn chamber of any wood boiler is normal. You can decrease the amount by burning seasoned wood, and by installing thermal storage to keep the boiler from idling, but you can't get rid of it altogether. It's just one of the physical properties of a boiler. I have found that the creosote that gets onto the door gasket doesn't really negatively affect the seal. When you open the door, just remove the bulk of the ribbon like strands of creosote with your fingers... they harden as soon as the cool air hits them, so they shouldn't be a mess. I have also discovered that a little mineral oil (baby oil) applied to the gasket will keep the rope pliable. Some suggest doing this once per week.

You will also probably find that the factory settings are pretty close with regard to primary and secondary air mix. Theoretically, you could be chasing those settings forever as your moisture content changes with whatever you're burning on any given day... also barometric pressure, relative humidity, etc etc. My advice is to light the boiler, let it burn, and enjoy the heat.

Happy Thanksgiving
Cheers

 

[NNYorker]

Hi Jim
I just measured the nozzle in the secondary combustion chamber it is 5 3/4'' like yours . Taking advice from Dale at Econoburn I leave the primary air factory setting { fully open } . I played around with the secondary air settings and ended up back at factory settings which 3 1/2 turns out from fully closed position . Jim are you happy with the heat output so far ? If you were to take some of the wood and split it in half and measure the moisture what is the reading ? Are you getting clean secondary combustion ?
Anthony

Primary air was set at about 1 1/2" open--I fiddled with it with no real different results--I set it right back where it was. Have not pulled the panel to even look at the secondary air. I'm happy with the unit so far, but I know it is capable of so much more with better wood. Split random pieces today--Cherry-20% , Ash-25/26% ,Maple-31% All this wood was prepped for the heap currently sitting in the barn-lg. rounds. Clean sec. comb? Nice blue jet exhaust is hit & miss- I am getting some creosote in the sec. comb. chamber. Pri. gasket leaks a little now because of creosote sticking/ripping gasket.

 

[antknee2]

Hi Jim
I found the big heavy loading door and secondary door do need adjustments as the gaskets settle . It took me quite a few attempts to get them to the point that I do not smell a slight odor when in the boiler room , luckily for me the boiler is separate from my residence . I had a hard time working with those big 1 1/8'' hinge bolts , one had to be loosened the other tightened , for each hinge .

 

[pybyr]

When you open the door, just remove the bulk of the ribbon like strands of creosote with your fingers... they harden as soon as the cool air hits them, so they shouldn't be a mess. Happy Thanksgiving
Cheers

yes, happy thanksgiving, but might as well use a stick or a piece of wood you'll be burning anyways, not your fingers ... creosote is pretty significantly carcinogenic. if you are not worried about yourself, also consider that it is, if I remember, rather mutagenic, too (causes genetic defects in offspring).

not trying to sound alarmist, as there are a ton of other things in the natural and human-made chemical soup that we all inhabit that are in the same categories (apparently byproducts of grilling food over an open flame are full of the same substances, though in far lesser doses)--

so/but if you can limit your degree of exposure without elaborate measures, might as well try to do so...