EFFECTA 60KW on the way------3 Tanks Thermal Storage Questions

[NP ALASKA]

I am expecting my system to be delivered in June. I have received a wealth of infomration from dealer.
I am wondering a few points:

1. I currently have OWB running to FP exchanger in garage next to where the Effecta will go. I have read that connecting to the FP would not be as efficient as other optitons.

2. Should I connect new boiler storage directly to oil boiler the same place I had the FP exchanger?

3. The manifolds for my zones sit on top of my oil boiler should I raise these instead and run new storage directly to zones, bypassing the oil boiler?

4. I have 3 tanks going in. 2-500 Gallon tanks stacked and 1-250 Gallon tank (vertical). My Effecta is dual fuel Pellet/Wood-----the plan is to use the 250 when in pellet mode and all 3 (1250) when in wood mode. My question is the different options I have for piping the 3 tanks- allowing my to bypass the 2-500's and incorportate when needed?

Best regards

 

[hobbyheater]

3. The manifolds for my zones sit on top of my oil boiler should I raise these instead and run new storage directly to zones, bypassing the oil boiler?

Running the two system in parallel would be more efficient when it comes to wood consumption. Running the water to the zones through the oil boiler will result in a lot of BTUs going up the chimney.

 

[NP ALASKA]

Lay out I have dreamed up so far

 

[NP ALASKA]

My current oil boiler
Plan to raise zones and "tee" in from new system

 

[SmokeEater]

My current oil boiler
Plan to raise zones and "tee" in from new system

NP, looking at you pic of your oil boiler, the zone valves on the manifold look like the White-Rogers 1311 series? If so, I have one connected through a Taco ZVC 406 zone valve controller. W-R sent a wiring diagram for the valve, but it's not an easy read and so I contacted Taco. They had a much easier diagram to follow, but when I got it all connected the W-R would open ok, but when the thermostat demand was satisfied, the valve would not close. I still don't have that valve working the way it should and W-R isn't any help. Maybe down the road you could advise me as "how to"? I have the Harman pellet boiler and a 100 gallon buffer tank all just installed in Feb of 2012. A 250 sure would be nicer.

 

[NP ALASKA]

NP, looking at you pic of your oil boiler, the zone valves on the manifold look like the White-Rogers 1311 series? If so, I have one connected through a Taco ZVC 406 zone valve controller. W-R sent a wiring diagram for the valve, but it's not an easy read and so I contacted Taco. They had a much easier diagram to follow, but when I got it all connected the W-R would open ok, but when the thermostat demand was satisfied, the valve would not close. I still don't have that valve working the way it should and W-R isn't any help. Maybe down the road you could advise me as "how to"? I have the Harman pellet boiler and a 100 gallon buffer tank all just installed in Feb of 2012. A 250 sure would be nicer.

As things progress June July timeframe I will let you know.

 

[NP ALASKA]

Running the two system in parallel would be more efficient when it comes to wood consumption. Running the water to the zones through the oil boiler will result in a lot of BTUs going up the chimney.

Thanks for the input, I have decided to back up to the point where the zones enter the house and redo it all. Probably use PEX as it is easier than copper in most instances.

 

[NP ALASKA]

Well started getting things ready. Completely re-worked the manifolds on the oil boiler. I purchased two 1 1/4 trunked copper manifolds and prpoceeded to cutting out existing manifolds. The picture above shows the old and I have attached the new picture. Check valves and ball valves in place. A check valve on the oil boiler to stop flow. The new storage feeds dirctly into the zones without needing to enter the heart of the oil boiler. "Thanks much Hobbyheater"

Regards,

 

[NP ALASKA]

New lay out. Hows it look?

 

[stee6043]

My first thought is that I'd run the same diameter pipe throughout the system. At the very least this will keep all of your fittings common size.

For the cost of the controls and fittings I'm not sure isolating that 250 gallon tank is going to give you much ROI nor significantly enhance performance. I personally would stack it with the other two and run them all as one storage location.

 

[Karl_northwind]

I believe that 250 gallon tank is for buffering when he's burning pellets in the boiler, and the full 1250 is for wood burning. the only control is an additional ball valve (the one at the bottom of the 250 G tank ) that when open allows short looping thru the 250 only. when closed it will load the whole system in series. I know a little about his system, but Morgan can go into more detail.

 

[NP ALASKA]

Karl,

Thanks for clarifying. Yes I will be using the 250 for pellet mode.

your input has helped a bunch, I hear the shipment is in from sweden and will ship my way as soon as tanks are ready.

Regards, Morgan

 

[NP ALASKA]

Just got in from Idaho this morning, was visiting family.

Gonna kick into high gear when the equipment arrives.