EKO 25 new owner

[OrangePower]

Hello guys.

I`m new here.

I see that you have a lot of info regarding boilers.

I get good deal on used eko 25 boiler and now I have few questions.

First, problem is that wood burns too fast ower nozzle and remaining wood don`t fell down to burn so I must go every hour to boiler, open it and collaps remaining wood.

Nozzle is not in perfect condition so I Will replace it today.

Do I have to take care something when I Will replace nozzle?

Second, It is hard do heat 1600L storage tank and heat two flors at the same time. It looks like goiler is not strong enough. Before I had heating with plain wood boiler (26KW) and it was powerful enough.

Maybe my nozzle is causing this problems...

Third, I see that you are talking about regulating air flow and speed of fan.

How do you have set your parameters on boiler regulator (it is the one with digital display - not sure what name)?

Sorry on my englis.

Thank you

BR

 

[OrangePower]

Other thing

Both U block in chamber are broken but all pcs are there so I can put them together.
Is this also making problems with burning and lower power of boiler?

 

[stee6043]

Welcome, Orange. You've got a good boiler there. Here are some responses based on what I've learned over the years.

1.) You're experiencing what we would call "bridging" I believe. This is when the wood hangs up in the upper chamber and doesn't fall down onto the coals. Unfortunately, the only real way to solve this problem is to cut your firewood into smaller pieces. Large splits of wood just don't work very well in downdrafters. Try splitting your existing splits in half. I'd bet this will help you tremendously.

2.) Nozzle replacement isn't exactly easy on an EKO. You can search around on this website and find threads from others who have done it. But to answer your question, YES, if your nozzle is in really bad shape it could be affecting your secondary air ports. This would surely impact performance of the boiler.

3.) Your EKO25 is more than powerful enough to heat 400 gallons of water. Do you have a ball valve on your mixing loop? If so, is it closed 90% of the way? This will help. How big is your load? Most homes should be fine for the EKO25 with a smaller amount of storage. You may load it a few more times than us guys with a 40 but it's more than enough boiler to do the job in most cases assuming it's running properly.

Here is a link to the controller manual. Enjoy.

http://www.newhorizoncorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/RK-2001UA-ENG12.pdf

 

[OrangePower]

1.) will try that
2.) I replaced nozzle today, out was easy in was not so easy and still now it isnt perfect. Nozzle is missing 0,5cm to seat all the way down. There was no time for grinding nozzle anymore because I need heating and hot water. I will try to do this over weekend.
3.)mixing loop have ball valve. I thing that I have to tune heating regulator some more because I have motor driven valve and it is controlled with regulator that controlls complete heating.

My load is aprox. half ful.
I will see today how long load will last and how quick I must go to boiler and get rid of "bridging" now with new nozzle. Right now my exhaust gas temp is holding 183°C - 361.4 fahrenheit

My controler is newer model I belive it is EKOSTER 2 - completly digital

 

[Nofossil]

Drier wood seems to eliminate bridging for me. Some of these boilers have issues with the secondary air passages - the tubes not being welded to the boiler frame on the fan end, or not being aligned with the holes in the nozzle. Mine also was *way* out of adjustment on primary air when I got it (new).

 

[OrangePower]

How did you fix that?

 

[Nofossil]

How did you fix that?

You can take off the cover over the blower and then remove the panel that the blower is mounted on. The primary inlets are horizontal sliding plates. I think the right opening is around 6 or 7mm. The outer ends of the secondary tubes are visible at the same time, right behind where the blower is mounted.