I aggree with everyone on the good cleaning. I use a drill wheel brush hose clamped onto a piece of 3/8" pex that does the job (by hand, no drill) but if you can find a tube brush that would be better. Incidently although I am 95% pollack myself I shake by head when I look at the turb cleaning setup. I will eventually remove that entire "claptrap" and replace with log chains like someone mentioned in Fred61 post awhile back. Back to wood. It has to be dry. I've got away in the past with burning some wetter wood in the top 1/3 or so of a load but only after I have a good bed of coals. Some on here say the splits should be no bigger than the size of a playing card. I always split oak up well since it takes so long to dry out. Walnut and elm seem to season easily in 1 year for me, but not oak. When I build a fire I start with thin cardboard (like beer or soda comes in) torn up in about 4" pieces over the nozzle and a 2 or 3 of my driest, smallest pieces of wood on top of that. Bypass and lower door open. I let this run 10-15" to warm the flue and get the splits red hot. Others have good luck using a propane torch on the bottom of a load for a minute or so but I have found this the easiest way for me to get a hot bed of coals. Then I close the lower door, load it to the top, close bypass and start the fan. Using this method, I have noticed this year that I get almost no smoke when loading it to the top. I believe this is because the chimney has such good draw from the 10-15" warm up that everything is drawn through the nozzle and the tubes even when the top door and bypass are open. Settings. 150 for pump launch is way to low. I'm not sure how that could be the default value. Mine comes on at 165 and shuts off at 160 (165 & 5). Others here use 170 and 165 (170 & 5). The hotter you run the better it will gassify.