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Eko bridging solution...?

Post in 'The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces' started by hkobus, Feb 17, 2008.

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  1. hkobus

    hkobus Member

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    Hi all,

    Finally got a Saturday to work on the boiler and see if I could improve a few things. I started with the install of a Tjernlund AD-1 fan to evacuate the smoke at reloading. I just have it set to turn on manually but will install a micro switch on the bypass next week so it turns on when the bypass gets opened. The result is no more smoke in the boiler shed :) . The temps on the unit stay well within range.

    The second thing I did was lining the firebox with 1.25 " firebrick. My thoughts were that the wood was cooling of or not getting to the right temps for a good constant gasification. No I have no hard data, just observation and "gut feel" on this one. ( farmers science in other words :) )
    I just installed 4 bricks on end on both sides and two on side on top of those. I skipped doing the back and front for time saving as I would have to cut bricks to fit. The tar in the steel has kept them in place for me for now.

    Observation so far: It took a bit longer to get the unit to temp, but it was very cold after being down for the day. Once the boiler got to temp the flame went really blue and stayed that way. When the wood bridged a bit, but kept the flame blue and going, a bit smaller than normal but it still made heat and no smoke or smell. Then 10 to 15 min later the bridge collapsed and the boiler was running full again and didn't bridge again.

    I have also found much less ashes and embers (or unburned coales) in the secondary chamber. This looks to me like a win,win situation and I added an other row of brick on top as the first bridge was hanging on the brick edge.

    Henk.

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  2. Eric Johnson

    Eric Johnson Mod Emeritus

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    Do you have the older style EKO with the flat refractory base in the firebox, or the newer design with the refractory "trough" on either side of the nozzle, Henk?
  3. hkobus

    hkobus Member

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    Eric,

    I have the flat base, I did not know, until a few weeks ago that there is a "trough" bottom. What is yours like?
    Part on the reason that I made this change was a discussion with a Atmos dealer last year, he said that when you burn dry wood you don't need the lined chamber. For poor quality wood they recommend the lined chamber.

    Henk.
  4. Eric Johnson

    Eric Johnson Mod Emeritus

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    Mine looks like this.

    I've never had a bridging problem, so maybe this fixes it.

    Attached Files:

  5. hkobus

    hkobus Member

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    Very interesting Eric, I am starting to wonder how old my unit is, eventhough I got it in Sept. '07. I think now that I would have been better of with a 60, as it holds more fuel and with the right storage could reduce the work load.
  6. Eric Johnson

    Eric Johnson Mod Emeritus

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    That's interesting. I got mine in Sept. 07, too. Does yours have the hx cleaning handle? Does it have turbulators?

    I imagine the Canadian distribution chain is different. Sounds to me like you got the regular Orlan, instead of the Orlan Super, which is what all EKOs sold in the U.S. are now, I believe.
  7. sled_mack

    sled_mack New Member

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    Hogstroker,
    Could you post come pics of what you did? I've been thinking of doing something similar for a variety of reasons. Also, I'm curious if you'll have problems with them falling over as you load wood, or as the fire burns down?

    Thanks.
  8. hkobus

    hkobus Member

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    I do not have the super, I wish I did. I have added turbulators made from surplus flex auger. They work very well.
    How much flat area does the bottom of your floor have, and how high does the slope go?

    Henk.
  9. hkobus

    hkobus Member

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    I will post some pic's when I get a chance to make some. The bricks are staying in place very well at this point, it seems that the tar present on the walls is acting like a glue.

    Henk.
  10. Eric Johnson

    Eric Johnson Mod Emeritus

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    The sides probably slope up around 6 inches. I'd estimate that the "trough" between them is around 12 inches. Maybe later when the fire has burned down I can measure it for you.
  11. barnartist

    barnartist Minister of Fire

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    Id like to see it too Hog. On a side note, what kind of wood are you burning? I am thinking I tend to bridge more when im using greener wood, or really hard wood- like Locust. I don't have a problem with really dry stuff much.
    How much and where can I find your draft inducer toy? I need one badly. How do you plane to rig a switch with the damper flap?
  12. hkobus

    hkobus Member

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    The wood I'm burning right now is not bad, sugarmaple that was dropped 3 years ago, but just split. I also had to endure some greener soft woods and for a while even truss end that were wet on the outside(worked really well though) The start of the season was very dry wood, mainly ash and soft maple.
    The reason for all this is that we just bought this house and had to do a lot of work on it(radiant infloor etc.) this did a real number on my wood gathering time... But I still need heat, too cheap to use to much gas and so we have to make do with what we have, just makes for a steep learning curve.

    Here is a link to the one I used http://www.tjernlund.com/Retail/auto-draft.htm When I wire the switch to the bypass flap, I will use a micro switch on low voltage to a relay running the AD-1.

    Henk
  13. rsnider

    rsnider New Member

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    i was thinking of doing that with the bricks in a new boiler eko 40. what are the inside dem. of the 40 before the bricks. i cant get the dem. on the eko website they give gallons or something i cant figure out. pics would be great.
  14. Eric Johnson

    Eric Johnson Mod Emeritus

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    On the 60 there's 12 to 14 inches between the ceramic sides of the "trough" above the nozzles.
  15. barnartist

    barnartist Minister of Fire

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    Hog, looked at the draft fan you bought. So you are happy with it then? and does it pull all of the smoke out really well? Is this one the nicest price-im sure you researched a bit.
    Thanks! Looks like a nice investment for me.
  16. rsnider

    rsnider New Member

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    barnartist thanks for the look at your boiler very nice setup. wow that storage tank was big. it got me thinking of how much storage i may need. on the draft inducer did you check ebay yet ?
  17. barnartist

    barnartist Minister of Fire

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    None on e-bay at this time, other than the e-bay store, and they want an extra 100 bucks for some reason.
  18. rsnider

    rsnider New Member

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    any eko 40 users out there give me the inside dimensions of the feed chamber? just wondering how much wood can be loaded.thanks for any response. still like to see some pics hogstroker when you get a chance.
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