Electric usage pellet stove vs lp furnace

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jjk454ss

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Oct 8, 2013
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Michigan
How does a pellet stove compare to a gas furnace when it comes to electric usage? They both have fans as the main source of usage I assume? The pellet stove has an electric igniter, my furnace has a pilot light.

My electric usage right now is higher than I expected. I get a monthly usage report from the energy company. I'm normally always in the middle of average and low, this month I'm above average. I know it's not only the pellet stove, and maybe it's not the pellet stove at all. We have used an electric oil radiator in the bathroom this year because the pellet stove doesn't heat in there very well. That is saying it's using 540 watts, so maybe that's the only reason my usage went up so much? How much in $'s is 540 watts per month on average?
 
How does a pellet stove compare to a gas furnace when it comes to electric usage? They both have fans as the main source of usage I assume? The pellet stove has an electric igniter, my furnace has a pilot light.

My electric usage right now is higher than I expected. I get a monthly usage report from the energy company. I'm normally always in the middle of average and low, this month I'm above average. I know it's not only the pellet stove, and maybe it's not the pellet stove at all. We have used an electric oil radiator in the bathroom this year because the pellet stove doesn't heat in there very well. That is saying it's using 540 watts, so maybe that's the only reason my usage went up so much? How much in $'s is 540 watts per month on average?
we used a 10,000btu space heater last winter in our bedroom at night[approx 8 hours].
electric went up around $25.00......that was with it being plugged into a themostat control that shut it off at 70 degrees and turned back on after 2 degree drop.
you know, the tall oil filled radiator looking type..." Non-digital so it will not go back to factory default when power is cut to it..
Past month we stopped using it so curious myself to see how much HarmanP61A uses with exhaust and distribution blowers running all the time. Igniter is once a day on room temp as we switch to manual after it lights up.
 
we used a 10,000btu space heater last winter in our bedroom at night[approx 8 hours].
electric went up around $25.00......that was with it being plugged into a themostat control that shut it off at 70 degrees and turned back on after 2 degree drop.
you know, the tall oil filled radiator looking type..." Non-digital so it will not go back to factory default when power is cut to it..
Past month we stopped using it so curious myself to see how much HarmanP61A uses with exhaust and distribution blowers running all the time. Igniter is once a day on room temp as we switch to manual after it lights up.

That's the same type of heater, I'm not sure the btu on mine though, I plugged it into a killawatt meter to see the usage. It's set pretty low, but not on a thermostat. I thought the oil ones were actually more efficient without a thermostat since it can take a while to heat the oil back up to temp.
 
That's the same type of heater, I'm not sure the btu on mine though, I plugged it into a killawatt meter to see the usage. It's set pretty low, but not on a thermostat. I thought the oil ones were actually more efficient without a thermostat since it can take a while to heat the oil back up to temp.
you could be right... although we have a poorly insulated bedroom so I think it may only shut off 30 minutes max of which it's still in a warmed stage [simmering?] when it kicks back on.
 
That's the same type of heater, I'm not sure the btu on mine though, I plugged it into a killawatt meter to see the usage. It's set pretty low, but not on a thermostat. I thought the oil ones were actually more efficient without a thermostat since it can take a while to heat the oil back up to temp.
First of all, efficiency of the heater has nothing to do with recovery time. All electric heaters are by definition 100% efficient. All of the electrical energy is converted to heat.
Second, If you have a killawatt meter, it will tell you directly what the cost of operation is. Just enter the cost per kilowatt-hr and leave it to monitor the heater for a week to get a representative measure of it's power consumption.
 
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First of all, efficiency of the heater has nothing to do with recovery time. All electric heaters are by definition 100% efficient. All of the electrical energy is converted to heat.
Second, If you have a killawatt meter, it will tell you directly what the cost of operation is. Just enter the cost per kilowatt-hr and leave it to monitor the heater for a week to get a representative measure of it's power consumption.

So your sayings it better to unplug it or set it on a thermostat? Even if it's converting electric to heat, if that electric is making heat to bring it up to temp that's kind of wasting it I would think?

As far as the killawatt, I do t have the manual, I found this online but it doesn't tell me much, so I thought I'd ask here.

http://www.p3international.com/manuals/p4400_manual.pdf
 
How does a pellet stove compare to a gas furnace when it comes to electric usage? They both have fans as the main source of usage I assume? The pellet stove has an electric igniter, my furnace has a pilot light.

My electric usage right now is higher than I expected. I get a monthly usage report from the energy company. I'm normally always in the middle of average and low, this month I'm above average. I know it's not only the pellet stove, and maybe it's not the pellet stove at all. We have used an electric oil radiator in the bathroom this year because the pellet stove doesn't heat in there very well. That is saying it's using 540 watts, so maybe that's the only reason my usage went up so much? How much in $'s is 540 watts per month on average?
540 watts is just over ½ a kw. Over 24 hrs, that'd be 12kwh. Over a month that'd be 360kwh. Multiply by your electric rate. Here in Maine it's about 14 cents per kWh, so you'd be paying $50 extra IF that heater ran all the time. That's not the case, as it will turn on and off in order to maintain some set temperature, but it's easy to see that you could easily add $20 to an electric bill by running a room heater.

My understanding is that the oil heaters have thermal mass, so that the heat radiates, smoothing out the ups and downs when the electricity cycles on and off. Your typical electric heater is either on or off, which means hot or cold. The oil just smooths out the heat cycle. It's not more efficient.

If you're not using a thermostat setting on the unit, they typically have two switches, one for low and one for medium, and both on for high. The low one is usually around 600watts, while the other one is 900 watts. When both are on, you use 1500 watts.
 
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So your sayings it better to unplug it or set it on a thermostat? Even if it's converting electric to heat, if that electric is making heat to bring it up to temp that's kind of wasting it I would think?
The heater is simply replacing heat lost from the room. The losses from the room are proportional to the temperature. Whenever you can lower the room temperature you can save energy. A thermostat helps by running the heater only when it is needed. The ability to set back the thermostat helps more.
 
I believe those 540 watts are during start up of the pellet stove to start the igniter. Once kit and running I think it drops down to around 300 watts for combustion and distribution blowers.
 
540 watts is just over ½ a kw. Over 24 hrs, that'd be 12kwh. Over a month that'd be 360kwh. Multiply by your electric rate. Here in Maine it's about 14 cents per kWh, so you'd be paying $50 extra IF that heater ran all the time. That's not the case, as it will turn on and off in order to maintain some set temperature, but it's easy to see that you could easily add $20 to an electric bill by running a room heater.

My understanding is that the oil heaters have thermal mass, so that the heat radiates, smoothing out the ups and downs when the electricity cycles on and off. Your typical electric heater is either on or off, which means hot or cold. The oil just smooths out the heat cycle. It's not more efficient.

If you're not using a thermostat setting on the unit, they typically have two switches, one for low and one for medium, and both on for high. The low one is usually around 600watts, while the other one is 900 watts. When both are on, you use 1500 watts.

Thanks, that's what I needed.
 
The heater is simply replacing heat lost from the room. The losses from the room are proportional to the temperature. Whenever you can lower the room temperature you can save energy. A thermostat helps by running the heater only when it is needed. The ability to set back the thermostat helps more.

Yeah, I just thought depending on how long it was off, and how much electricity it used to get up to temp, it was better to set it on a lower temp and just leave it.
 
I believe those 540 watts are during start up of the pellet stove to start the igniter. Once kit and running I think it drops down to around 300 watts for combustion and distribution blowers.

The 540 is the electric heater, I haven't tested the pellet stove yet.
 
First of all, efficiency of the heater has nothing to do with recovery time. All electric heaters are by definition 100% efficient. All of the electrical energy is converted to heat.
Second, If you have a killawatt meter, it will tell you directly what the cost of operation is. Just enter the cost per kilowatt-hr and leave it to monitor the heater for a week to get a representative measure of it's power consumption.

I think the model I have does not let you set your rate.
 
Pellet stoves electric usage depends on the fans and feed motor. Our Elena-Ecoteck with german fans on lower settings averages about 75 watts running, 250 watt igniter but usually only on for less than 5 minutes per ignition cycle. The Harman PC45 is a real power hog on startup with exhaust fan, auger,air pump and a big igniter. Luckily only starts once a ton.
 
Yeah, I just thought depending on how long it was off, and how much electricity it used to get up to temp, it was better to set it on a lower temp and just leave it.
One thing you can consider is putting the oil heater on a timer. Have it turn on in the morning, giving it plenty of time to warm up, and then in the evening.
 
Pellet stoves electric usage depends on the fans and feed motor. Our Elena-Ecoteck with german fans on lower settings averages about 75 watts running, 250 watt igniter but usually only on for less than 5 minutes per ignition cycle. The Harman PC45 is a real power hog on startup with exhaust fan, auger,air pump and a big igniter. Luckily only starts once a ton.

Thanks
 
One thing you can consider is putting the oil heater on a timer. Have it turn on in the morning, giving it plenty of time to warm up, and then in the evening.

I thought about that too, but I have had pipes freeze in the wall in that bathroom, that was with the furnace on but the vent in the bathroom closed, so I figured it just keep it on to be safe.
 
yep.. exact one we used with the space heater...
worked fine.... but only works with a analog or manual type appliances[ knobs u turn etc.... Most digital appliances like heaters/air conditioners will default back to Factory settings when power get's Interupted..
 
my pellet stove uses about 45 watts for fans, and another 40 for the auger. probably averages about 60 watts constant. Honestly, it's negligible on the bill. <$10 a month.
 
Once kit and running I think it drops down to around 300 watts for combustion and distribution blowers.
That would be a very inefficient pellet stove. About the most one would expect is just over 100 watts, and that's on an older or inefficient stove by current standards. My Quad MVAE uses 27 watts for both blowers and the auger motor, all in. The ignitor itself is only 300 watts.
 
I think the model I have does not let you set your rate.
So your Kill-a-watt meter only displays KWH usage over time?

Then you can (manually) multiply the KWH usage by the KWH rate.

Ex: Device used 60 KWH per month:

60 KWH x $0.075 per KWH = $4.50.
 
So if you translate all this wattage talk into layman's terms for those of us less capable of understanding, lol, what could one expect to see as a typical increase on the electric bill while using an average pellet stove heating a 2000 square foot drafty house? Still in the deciding phase, trying to figure out which kind of stove will best suit our needs.
 
So if you translate all this wattage talk into layman's terms for those of us less capable of understanding, lol, what could one expect to see as a typical increase on the electric bill while using an average pellet stove heating a 2000 square foot drafty house? Still in the deciding phase, trying to figure out which kind of stove will best suit our needs.
About the price of lunch one day.

I did the math for two stoves (one very efficient, using my MVAE as an example) and one not so efficient (using my old Whitman Quest as an example, and adding in a high wattage ignitor). I came up with $5.40 / month for a low (MVAE) and $13.88 for a high (Quest, but it doesn't actually have an ignitor).

And to make it really easy, here's a spreadsheet that'll do it for you. Enter your own numbers in the unshaded cells. You'll need to unzip the file.
 

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