Electrical outlets near stovepipe.

[rcook430]

Buying a harman pellet stove soon. Im trying to decide where to place it. We moved into house in June that was built in 2002. It has alot of electical outlets and windows. Ive never installed a pellet stove before. My problem is I need to route exhaust pipe straight out wall from stove due to the numerous windows on exterior walls. But with the abundance of electical outlets I feel like I have wiring everywhere and it is the same height as where the stovepipe will exit. Anyone else ran into this problem ? Thanks.

 

[bogieb]

First, I strongly suggest you run a dedicated outlet and breaker for your stove. I had to do so for the Harman as there were no existing outlets very close in the basement. I chose to do so with the Hastings as the electrical run would have contained my tv/cable box, and computer (in another room) as well as several outlets and probably some lights. I was lucky and my BIL split off the nearest outlet from the run, and put in a dedicated line and breaker (Otherwise I would have had to hire someone). You can get an outlet tester to find out what all is on each breaker to at least make an informed decision.

I am unsure how to detect where wires are. In my case, I was tearing out walls anyway to install insulation, so it was abundantly evident where lines were.

You can always place your stove on a pedestal to get it above the line run. Or, use a T w/cleanout and run up one foot, then a 90 elbow to pipe out (which is what I did to keep heat away from the wires). All the pipes are still behind the stove that way.

 

[bogieb]

Also, installing an OAK at the same time will give you shorter clearance to windows (I think 9", but check you manual, which you can find online - I may be remembering from the Hastings and not the Harman)

 

[jdinny]

Yes, we had a cable outlet we had to remove, and an electric outlet right in line with our vent. We used an Excel insulated thimble and just routed the wire down under the thimble.
No problem at all, Actually, the outside of the thimble between the walls are quite cool to the touch.

 

[mik_kane]

First, I strongly suggest you run a dedicated outlet and breaker for your stove. I had to do so for the Harman as there were no existing outlets very close in the basement.

This is the first time I have heard anyone say you need a dedicated outlet for a pellet stove

 

[jdinny]

This is the first time I have heard anyone say you need a dedicated outlet for a pellet stove

You don't

 

[bcarton]

Running up then out might be a good idea regardless. I you ever change out your stove, you won't be faced with the challenge of lining up the new stove to the old straight-out-the-wall vent.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

This is the first time I have heard anyone say you need a dedicated outlet for a pellet stove

You don't and she didn't say that you did. She had to because there were none near where she put the stove.

 

[rcook430]

I didnt know if codes would allow me to just push electical wire around the insulated stovepipe. It will probably be my only option because my outside walls are literally all windows and electical outlets.

 

[mik_kane]

You don't

If you think I am tearing up my walls to run a dedicated line (which you absolutely do not need) for the pellet stove, you better think again. What a waste of time and money imo.

 

[mik_kane]

You don't and she didn't say that you did. She had to because there were none near where she put the stove.

Read the first sentence
First, I strongly suggest you run a dedicated outlet and breaker for your stove.

 

[jdinny]

If you think I am tearing up my walls to run a dedicated line (which you absolutely do not need) for the pellet stove, you better think again. What a waste of time and money imo.

I thought I just said you don't need one. Have another beer

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Read the first sentence
First, I strongly suggest you run a dedicated outlet and breaker for your stove.

Strongly suggesting is not the same as must have.

 

[IHATEPROPANE]

Read the first sentence
First, I strongly suggest you run a dedicated outlet and breaker for your stove.

To suggest strongly is not the same as need.......

 

[LordmetalZ28]

This is the first time I have heard anyone say you need a dedicated outlet for a pellet stove

Those motors draw so little amprage

 

[mik_kane]

Strongly suggesting is not the same as must have.

To suggest strongly is not the same as need......

It is still bad advice to someone that is looking to install their first pellet stove IMO

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

It is still bad advice to someone that is looking to install their first pellet stove IMO

Not really.

I'd strongly suggest that you are going to need more than just the power required to run the stove.

You might want enough power to operate a rather strong vacuum at the very least near the stove, not to mention the power tools to do the installation.

 

[IHATEPROPANE]

It is still bad advice to someone that is looking to install their first pellet stove IMO

False, to go above and beyond is not bad advice.

 

[rcook430]

Alright alright lol. I was going to run a dedicated line anyhow. I have reseached that much. I did take the outlet cover off and itooks like the wires exit the bottom of the box. I hope they stay down there because if they exit the side it would dead center the stovepipe exhaust. I just hate to cut a hole in my wall just to look and maybe not install it there.

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Locating a pellet stove can be a challenge at times, especially with a lot of windows, wiring, plumbing etc in the walls.

As far as a dedicated line ???? I would not consider it unless the circuits already there were loaded to the max.

A pellet stove uses so little current

Once a possible location is chosen some mockup is in order.

A cardboard mockup of close size with a circle drawn as close as possible to the location of the vent is in order.

Move you Faux stove around and get a good recon on how it looks, clearances, set backs etc.

The next thing is to scope out the walls for stud locations and make sure your "sweet spot" is not going to drive your vent right into a stud or wires.

A stud finder with electrical finder is a cheap investment.

Make sure your pipe will pass far enough away from the studs to allow the thimble to have some room.

Load the electrical circuit and find the wires and make sure there are no issues there too.

Most stoves the vent near the bottom of the chassis could aim the vent close to wires in the wall.

If this is an issue, no sweat, build a raised hearth to put some distance between the vent and the offending items.

Windows are generally no biggy, as long as the do not open.

Corners can be a great location.

I am a big fan of direct venting, as it makes cleaning a quick and easy chore.

The install costs are far cheaper than tall setups.

Always follow codes.

Once your chosen spot checks out (and you have located the exact spot for the vent) carefully drill a 1/8 to 3/16 inch hole through the sheet rock, then carefully push your loooooooooooooooooooooooong drill through by hand to make sure there are no obstructions.

Level and square the drill and go through the siding.

Your ready to enlarge the opening.

BE SURE YOU ACCOUNT FOR THE FLOOR /HEARTH PAD BEFORE MARKING FOR THE HOLE.

Pretty easy

Good luck and be safe

Snowy

 

[jdinny]

Cut the hole for the vent pipe, and if the Romex cable is in the way, just move it abit.
it won't be strung tight like a guitar string, there will be slack in the cable.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Then there are these critters http://www.amazon.com/Underground-Locator-Sprinkler-Electrical-Telephone/dp/B0086GE2C2.

I haven't used any of these but the electronic stud finders work just fine, I expect these to as well.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Remember that it isn't just the vent that goes into that hole it is a thimble and all combustibles (includes the wiring and any paper backed insulation, etc ..) must be outside of the thimbles heat shield that the vent passes through..

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Don't count on wires having slack, been there done that one, and they were TIGHTLY stapled to the studs somewhere

The stud/electric finder is the ticket.

JUST BE SURE TO LOAD THE OUTLETS ON EITHER SIDE OF WHERE YOU ARE GOING TO GO THROUGH.
A small lamp, anything to cause current to flow, and that will allow the finder to work.

The finder if moved up and down across the area will allow you to find cables fairly close.

It is a good idea to shove the insulation back away from the thimble a tad bit to allow a bit of air space around the thimble.

 

[bogieb]

This is the first time I have heard anyone say you need a dedicated outlet for a pellet stove

My strong suggestion was because he probably doesn't know what all is run on that circuit. Please note that further down I stated: "You can get an outlet tester to find out what all is on each breaker to at least make an informed decision". I ran new lines/breakers for the St. Croix because I have older (1960) wiring and was unsure what was actually behind the rest of the walls (I found many places where there was only partial upgraded wiring - enough to pass a cursory inspection). However, since I tested outlets to breakers, I knew for a fact that there was plenty of stuff on the breaker, and to be safe, I ran a new line.

If you think I am tearing up my walls to run a dedicated line (which you absolutely do not need) for the pellet stove, you better think again. What a waste of time and money imo.

He's already tearing up (putting the hole in for the thimble) a portion of the wall next to where electrical wires run - don't need to tear up more than that. In my case, I had almost no insulation, and big holes in the plywood under the siding, so I didn't tear up a wall just to do wiring, although in my case, I would have anyway just because I have plenty of load on the breaker that serviced that outlet.