Here are some things I've learned here:
1. codes are there for your protection
2. have your chimney cleaned prior to a liner install
3. an insulated liner may not be needed, but it will help
4. creosote is bad and builds up when the flue temp is less than 250
5. break in fires are good
6. stove will probably smell first few times
7. a back off plate is important
8. the search function is very helpful
9. burn dry wood
10. the top down kindling fire is easy (can't wait to try it)
11. each application and stove is different and takes time to learn and optimize
12. secondary burn is cool (can't wait to see that either)
13. I'll burn much less wood
14. not all prefabs are created equal--zero clearnace boxes are thin, other metal boxes for true masonry applications can be 3/8" plate steel and weigh in at 400 pounds or more
15. new efficient inserts don't require huge amounts of indoor air to burn
16. raking coals to front and loading up
17. high temp sealant comes in a caulking tube and is easy to apply
18. it's good to get very informed because you may know more than the installer
19. the quality of inspections varies greatly
20. insurance companies also vary in terms of what they require if anything
21. a man can never have too much wood
22. buying 'seasoned' wood doesn't mean it's ready to burn
23. pine isn't a bad wood to burn as long as it is properly seasoned
24. great kindling a.k.a. fat wood is to had from pine stumps
I think that about covers it. I'm jonesing for a fire!
About the pictures, the existing facing was at 37 inches from the hearth. After much consternation and reading about mantle shields, I decided to the easiest thing to do in my situation would be to cut off 2" of trim to get to the minimum 39" That left a 2" gap at the bottom. A couple of more pics will show the bottom result.
1. codes are there for your protection
2. have your chimney cleaned prior to a liner install
3. an insulated liner may not be needed, but it will help
4. creosote is bad and builds up when the flue temp is less than 250
5. break in fires are good
6. stove will probably smell first few times
7. a back off plate is important
8. the search function is very helpful
9. burn dry wood
10. the top down kindling fire is easy (can't wait to try it)
11. each application and stove is different and takes time to learn and optimize
12. secondary burn is cool (can't wait to see that either)
13. I'll burn much less wood
14. not all prefabs are created equal--zero clearnace boxes are thin, other metal boxes for true masonry applications can be 3/8" plate steel and weigh in at 400 pounds or more
15. new efficient inserts don't require huge amounts of indoor air to burn
16. raking coals to front and loading up
17. high temp sealant comes in a caulking tube and is easy to apply
18. it's good to get very informed because you may know more than the installer
19. the quality of inspections varies greatly
20. insurance companies also vary in terms of what they require if anything
21. a man can never have too much wood
22. buying 'seasoned' wood doesn't mean it's ready to burn
23. pine isn't a bad wood to burn as long as it is properly seasoned
24. great kindling a.k.a. fat wood is to had from pine stumps
I think that about covers it. I'm jonesing for a fire!
About the pictures, the existing facing was at 37 inches from the hearth. After much consternation and reading about mantle shields, I decided to the easiest thing to do in my situation would be to cut off 2" of trim to get to the minimum 39" That left a 2" gap at the bottom. A couple of more pics will show the bottom result.
