Englander 25-pdvc OAK

[dhungy]

So back in March I grabbed a 25-pdvc off a craigslist for a crazy good deal. The only problem is it didn't come with the OAK. Now my Avalon is a much larger stove and it is not pulling air from the outside. Do I need the 25-pdvc so be pulling fresh air? Other then safety reasons is there any advantages to using fresh air?

Thanks,

 

[MCPO]

Mine runs with or without it and no difference but the maker highly recommends and includes it with all their models (to my knowledge).
I think the general consensus is to install an OAK.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Other then safety reasons is there any advantages to using fresh air?

Thanks,

Well if you look at code where you are and if it says to install according the manufactures instructions then your installation would not be to code and your insurance company is likely to give you a real good hassle if there is a fire even remotely connected to the stove.

Nothing like not being able to rebuild because of that and to still have to pay a mortgage on a no longer usable house.

Maybe you like pulling in heated air and sending it out the vent while pulling even colder air into the house through its many air leaks.

Then if you are running two stoves instead of just the original one, combined they may not be able to get enough air to burn properly, leading to additional cleanings, and wear and tear on gaskets, etc...

 

[dac122]

This is a topic that comes up periodically. Shakespeare might have said 'To OAK or not to OAK that is the question.'

The bottom line is you are burning air from somewhere. Negative pressure is a real issue. With two stoves not using an OAK, and maybe some other appliances (e.g, hot water tank, dryer, bath and kitchen vent vans, etc.) you may notice some serious drafts around the house, particularly doors and windows.

I would put it in just to be on the safe side.

 

[jtakeman]

A good test to OAK or not OAK:

Start the stove as normal with no OAK connected. Let it run for a bit and get up to temp. NOW= pull the plug and stand back. See how much smoke comes out the OAK connection on the stove. Be ready to reconnect the OAK or plug the stove back in ASAP!

"When there's smoke one must OAK!"

 

[dhungy]

I see the OAK is $60 on there site. Any other options?

 

[vvvv]

A good test to OAK or not OAK:

Start the stove as normal with no OAK connected. Let it run for a bit and get up to temp. NOW= pull the plug and stand back. See how much smoke comes out the OAK connection on the stove. Be ready to reconnect the OAK or plug the stove back in ASAP!

"When there's smoke one must OAK!"

good point! wonder how it might affect smoke/heat migration into the bin?

 

[jtakeman]

A good test to OAK or not OAK:

Start the stove as normal with no OAK connected. Let it run for a bit and get up to temp. NOW= pull the plug and stand back. See how much smoke comes out the OAK connection on the stove. Be ready to reconnect the OAK or plug the stove back in ASAP!

"When there's smoke one must OAK!"

good point! wonder how it might affect smoke/heat migration into the bin?

bin=hopper, I take it?

 

[vvvv]

A good test to OAK or not OAK:

Start the stove as normal with no OAK connected. Let it run for a bit and get up to temp. NOW= pull the plug and stand back. See how much smoke comes out the OAK connection on the stove. Be ready to reconnect the OAK or plug the stove back in ASAP!

"When there's smoke one must OAK!"

good point! wonder how it might affect smoke/heat migration into the bin?

bin=hopper, I take it?

yes, the storage in the stove

 

[jtakeman]

A good test to OAK or not OAK:

Start the stove as normal with no OAK connected. Let it run for a bit and get up to temp. NOW= pull the plug and stand back. See how much smoke comes out the OAK connection on the stove. Be ready to reconnect the OAK or plug the stove back in ASAP!

"When there's smoke one must OAK!"

good point! wonder how it might affect smoke/heat migration into the bin?

bin=hopper, I take it?

yes, the storage in the stove

Don't know or have I considered it. Would also depend on top feed or bottom feed stove. I got smoke in the hopper on my top feed old quad when I lost power without an OAK. Hopper was almost out of fuel and the stove was a direct vent. Since then I always put in some verticle rise and install an OAK.

 

[imacman]

.......the maker highly recommends and includes it with all their models (to my knowledge).
I think the general consensus is to install an OAK.

I agree 100%.....install an OAK on BOTH stoves.

 

[dhungy]

are OAK standard is there a general kit I can purchase that will work for both stoves are are they specific to the make and model?

 

[imacman]

are OAK standard is there a general kit I can purchase that will work for both stoves are are they specific to the make and model?

If you can find a kit that is the right size for the stoves, any OAK will work.....it's just an air tube w/ an outside cover & screen. If the air inlet on the Astoria is the same as the Englander, you could buy 2 from Englander directly.

 

[smwilliamson]

I'm of the opinion that all stoves and heating situations always have more to gain than lose from the OAK. There is also the added drama of creating a "sick" house by not having enough make up air. That alone prompted me to install one for the house. The garage and shop do not have one. You can make this out of any type of tubing so long as it is sealed to the outside and is of a greater diameter than your stove requires. Length is also an issue. Try to keep it short with few bends.

 

[dhungy]

I have a old house.. so its definitely not "air tight" I suppose I should have at least one of the stoves drawing fresh air..

 

[vvvv]

aluminum dryer hose + ring clamp+ hole in wall+ screen on outer end of hose to keep critters from crawling in & plugging the hose= cheap
my setup involves a plastic vac cleaner hose that i hook up or remove at will= supposedly dangerous. WITH OAK DISCONNECTED & DRAWING ROOM AIR FOR THE FIRE, THE STOVE ACTS AS A VENT & REMOVES MY CIGARETTE SMOKE [some] AS IT PULLS FRESH AIR FROM ANY LEAKS IN MY WALLS. THE VOLUME OF AIR EXHAUSTED BY THE STOVE IS NOTHING LIKE A BATHROOM FAN/VENT SO I CONSIDER THE HEATLOSS INSIGNIFICANT WITHOUT THE OAK. IT WOULD BE NICE TO KNOW THE ACTUAL CFM THAT MY ENGLANDER 25PDVC EXHAUSTS BUT MY ESOTERIC QUESTIONS TO ENGLANDER TEND TO BE IGNORED AS THE YEARS PASS

 

[imacman]

I have a old house.. so its definitely not "air tight" I suppose I should have at least one of the stoves drawing fresh air..

Again, this is another reason to install the OAK....if you have the stove(s) going, and the house is "leaky", the air needed to run the stove(s) will just be drawn in through the cracks, cooling down the rooms you're trying to heat.

If the air is drawn through an OAK, it does NOT add to the negative draft.

Once again, I suggest adding an OAK to both. If you decide to add just one, add it to the Englander.

 

[jtakeman]

aluminum dryer hose + ring clamp+ hole in wall+ screen on outer end of hose to keep critters from crawling in & plugging the hose= cheap
my setup involves a plastic vac cleaner hose that i hook up or remove at will= supposedly dangerous. WITH OAK DISCONNECTED & DRAWING ROOM AIR FOR THE FIRE, THE STOVE ACTS AS A VENT & REMOVES MY CIGARETTE SMOKE [some] AS IT PULLS FRESH AIR FROM ANY LEAKS IN MY WALLS. THE VOLUME OF AIR EXHAUSTED BY THE STOVE IS NOTHING LIKE A BATHROOM FAN/VENT SO I CONSIDER THE HEATLOSS INSIGNIFICANT WITHOUT THE OAK. IT WOULD BE NICE TO KNOW THE ACTUAL CFM THAT MY ENGLANDER 25PDVC EXHAUSTS BUT MY ESOTERIC QUESTIONS TO ENGLANDER TEND TO BE IGNORED AS THE YEARS PASS

No need to yell we can hear you. pook????

I was thinking of getting an Anemometer.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/EXTECH-Anemometer-1PKZ4?Pid=search

I suppose it would need to be installed in line with a sealed OAK. Should give a close CFM value anyway. Kinda pricey for cheap old me though!

 

[vvvv]

aluminum dryer hose + ring clamp+ hole in wall+ screen on outer end of hose to keep critters from crawling in & plugging the hose= cheap
my setup involves a plastic vac cleaner hose that i hook up or remove at will= supposedly dangerous. WITH OAK DISCONNECTED & DRAWING ROOM AIR FOR THE FIRE, THE STOVE ACTS AS A VENT & REMOVES MY CIGARETTE SMOKE [some] AS IT PULLS FRESH AIR FROM ANY LEAKS IN MY WALLS. THE VOLUME OF AIR EXHAUSTED BY THE STOVE IS NOTHING LIKE A BATHROOM FAN/VENT SO I CONSIDER THE HEATLOSS INSIGNIFICANT WITHOUT THE OAK. IT WOULD BE NICE TO KNOW THE ACTUAL CFM THAT MY ENGLANDER 25PDVC EXHAUSTS BUT MY ESOTERIC QUESTIONS TO ENGLANDER TEND TO BE IGNORED AS THE YEARS PASS

No need to yell we can hear you. pook????

I was thinking of getting an Anemometer.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/EXTECH-Anemometer-1PKZ4?Pid=search

I suppose it would need to be installed in line with a sealed OAK. Should give a close CFM value anyway. Kinda pricey for cheap old me though!

just played with 25pdvc, & 10w blower = 10cfm? blowing outside from stovepipe

 

[jtakeman]

aluminum dryer hose + ring clamp+ hole in wall+ screen on outer end of hose to keep critters from crawling in & plugging the hose= cheap
my setup involves a plastic vac cleaner hose that i hook up or remove at will= supposedly dangerous. WITH OAK DISCONNECTED & DRAWING ROOM AIR FOR THE FIRE, THE STOVE ACTS AS A VENT & REMOVES MY CIGARETTE SMOKE [some] AS IT PULLS FRESH AIR FROM ANY LEAKS IN MY WALLS. THE VOLUME OF AIR EXHAUSTED BY THE STOVE IS NOTHING LIKE A BATHROOM FAN/VENT SO I CONSIDER THE HEATLOSS INSIGNIFICANT WITHOUT THE OAK. IT WOULD BE NICE TO KNOW THE ACTUAL CFM THAT MY ENGLANDER 25PDVC EXHAUSTS BUT MY ESOTERIC QUESTIONS TO ENGLANDER TEND TO BE IGNORED AS THE YEARS PASS

No need to yell we can hear you. pook????

I was thinking of getting an Anemometer.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/EXTECH-Anemometer-1PKZ4?Pid=search

I suppose it would need to be installed in line with a sealed OAK. Should give a close CFM value anyway. Kinda pricey for cheap old me though!

just played with 25pdvc, & 10w blower = 10cfm? blowing outside from stovepipe

Are you really burning pellets in this heat and expecting anything worth validating????

 

[vvvv]

aluminum dryer hose + ring clamp+ hole in wall+ screen on outer end of hose to keep critters from crawling in & plugging the hose= cheap
my setup involves a plastic vac cleaner hose that i hook up or remove at will= supposedly dangerous. WITH OAK DISCONNECTED & DRAWING ROOM AIR FOR THE FIRE, THE STOVE ACTS AS A VENT & REMOVES MY CIGARETTE SMOKE [some] AS IT PULLS FRESH AIR FROM ANY LEAKS IN MY WALLS. THE VOLUME OF AIR EXHAUSTED BY THE STOVE IS NOTHING LIKE A BATHROOM FAN/VENT SO I CONSIDER THE HEATLOSS INSIGNIFICANT WITHOUT THE OAK. IT WOULD BE NICE TO KNOW THE ACTUAL CFM THAT MY ENGLANDER 25PDVC EXHAUSTS BUT MY ESOTERIC QUESTIONS TO ENGLANDER TEND TO BE IGNORED AS THE YEARS PASS

No need to yell we can hear you. pook????

I was thinking of getting an Anemometer.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/EXTECH-Anemometer-1PKZ4?Pid=search

I suppose it would need to be installed in line with a sealed OAK. Should give a close CFM value anyway. Kinda pricey for cheap old me though!

just played with 25pdvc, & 10w blower = 10cfm? blowing outside from stovepipe

Are you really burning pellets in this heat and expecting anything worth validating????

no, i turned on the stove,went out & felt the airflow. then i came in & felt the blow from a 10w blower which felt similar. then i guessed= if a 40w blower blows 40cfm, then a 10w blower blows 10cfm. i know my bathfan blows about 40 cfm & burns 40w. i know my 10wblower burns 10w [kilawatt] but it doesnt have a cfm rating on it= educated guess?