Englander 25pdvp reinstalled, gasketed, cleaned....waiting to see if she heats now

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joelswork

joelswork

New Member
Nov 9, 2010
86
central TN
Ok, got on of the reps right before close yesterday and control board setting "b" is the factory setting, we are trying at 6-4-1 on the lower 3 for right now. I took out the old wood stove 6" pipe that I had adapted this too (all 20 ft of it) and decided to run the venting directly out the back....through an old brick chimeny that is still there for some reason and out/up/ended! 3 ft horizontal, 3 ft up and capped. the old vent was full of ash and was fairly clean when I took the wood stove out/cleaned it.

Cleaned every knook and cranny, I had a new room blower so I just replaced the other and will do a service on that later. upper auger bearing needs replacing and will get that ordered but is working decently now. Exhaust blower only had 3 of the 5 screws in it and one was stripped, cleaned and replaced the screws, re-adjusted the oak cause it is now sitting directly under the mantel and is only 6" from the wall as opposed to 12 like before. The hardest part was drilling though/fixing the brick chimeny, it hasn't been used in 40+ years and was never capped, however it was kinda cememented off. I hit something and all 40+ years of "stuff" came running in the house/ out the hole I broke though outside. I have about 40 gallons of decomposed material, dead animals, bugs of all kinds just filling my house. Glad the wife was gone for the night. I'll get some pictures up soon. Hopefully this resolves the low heat issue!
 
Still not keeping up, air is just warm out of the tubes. I have soot in my new pipes outside and I've burnt for 2 days, is this a low air problem? New gaskets, new blower motor for the room, cleaned the old exhaust blower good (wasn't all that bad). Trying to figure out the best setting for the lower 3 but according to the link imacman sent me from Mike H., it might not effect me anyways because of the age of the stove and I don't dare burn below 5 or 6....we would freeze to death!
 
If you have black soot in the pipes, that is probably a lack of burn air...the stove air/fuel ratio is too "rich" and isn't burning at a high enough temp. Typically, the ash in a pellet stove that's burning correctly will be a light greyish color.

Since you're running on a heat setting above 2, the bottom buttons shouldn't be having any effect....there still seems to be an airflow problem through the stove, and through the burnpot in particular.

Maybe another call to Englander telling them what you've tried/changed.
 
New clues.....I. red to get this thing figured out...I think that is a big clue there!
 
Joel, are you running this stove on a stat? If not, is the jumper wire still connected in the terminals on the control board? If not, the stove will never go out of Lo fire.
 
On the back of the control board, there should be 2 terminals near the bottom with small set-screws in the centers. On the bottom of those terminals, there should be holes to insert a wire for a stat connection. If no stat is being used, a piece of solid copper wire should be inserted into the 2 holes.

This is from your owners manual:

"After unplugging the unit, locate the jumper wire (J-3) on the bottom of the control panel. The two screws should then be
loosened and the jumper wire removed from the board. Next, the two thermostat lead wires should be slipped into these openings and the screws tightened; the jumper wire should be saved for future operation without a thermostat."
 
Ding ding ding ding! If it is the little black box on bottom corner with the two little flat head screws. Now do I need to have the stove go through the complete cool down or just turn it off and unplug it?
 
the bell rang too early! After getting the board off the stove to put in the jumper in, I realized it had one....a very, very, very small one, but one none the less. I did replace it, but from what a low burn sounds like, I might have one. Any thing else you can think of right off hand? I did see that the chip in my board is an "Englander 98 revision 2A....don't know if that makes a difference, it has been replaced or something as the power cord does not enter the gromet and part of the old cord is still in the gromet. Maybe the 98 is a newer than 2000 program that makes the bottom 3 work, maybe not...maybe it was from 1998? hard to say, looking for more clues....if I run across a blue dog and a funny looking guy in an odd striped shirt........
 
Wow, too bad....I thought that was the problem. Well, I'm out of ideas.

You might want to call Englander tomorrow and try to speak to Mike Holton.....tell him the info you found on the board. Since you now know what number and revision it is, he may have more ideas based on that info.

Sorry I can't be of more help...good luck!
 
He chimed in on one of my other threads, I sent him a PM but at least I took this out of the equation. I can't believe the thickness of that jumper, we are talking the same as a paper staple, I switched it out with a copper wire I already fabbed up. Thanks for the suggestion, it made sense...low air to fuel ratio....now, what is causing it?
 
joelswork said:
He chimed in on one of my other threads, I sent him a PM but at least I took this out of the equation. I can't believe the thickness of that jumper, we are talking the same as a paper staple, I switched it out with a copper wire I already fabbed up. Thanks for the suggestion, it made sense...low air to fuel ratio....now, what is causing it?
Click to expand...

Improper venting also.
 
venting is good now, questionable before. now it's striaght out 3ft, up 3 ft elbowed and capped. 3" duravent. How much air should be blowing out of the exhaust? Seems like a pretty small amount. The OAK is holding a playing card up to it (I heard that was a good test, but let me know if i can test it some other way.

170 degrees (with the highly scientific meat thermomter) placed 2" from the outlets in the room and I'm burning somersets, fresh bags

Edit: I have the top 3' section and elbow off right now till I get this fixed (had to rob them anyway to hook to the dryer vent and unfreeze the pipes).

Oh, and the outside temp is getting close to my inside temp. Overnight low was 19, house got to 45...now it's 37 and house is at.........45 (had to shut it down while on hold with englander, then was told to just leave Mike a message after the hour hold time.....wife didn't get out from under the covers until 11) ERRRR, sorry to vent guys, this is just frusterating me cause I completly took out my old wood burner that kept us warm so we didn't have to worry about the ash/air quality with the boys we are adopting cause they have down's syndrome and some respitory issues. Stove was given to us but I have $400 in venting and have spent a small fortune on pellets that are not close to working right.
 
The funny thing is the exhaust temp is blowing way hotter than the room blower, now if I didn't mind the funny feeling in my head.....I could just blow the exhaust right back in the house....only kidding but I'm running out of patience/warm blood
 
Upper limits on both, 9/9 6-4-1 lower settings but those don't play well with anything above 2.
 
Can you post a picture of the flame without opening the door?

Is the stove other than in a living room?

What shape are the insulation and windows in?

Do you have a multimeter?

If so, could you provide the voltage from the combustion blower on both heat setting 1 and 9? The same thing for the room air blower on fan 1 and fan 9?
 
Windows are sealed up, old single pane wood windows, full storm windows and I have sealed them with plastic...no leaks except around the front door which isn't too bad. We actually do have blown in insulation in the lower level (upper is sealed off till spring). I do have the multimeter...check

As for the pictures, the camera just doesn't like the contrast of the flame and the lighting, they all look bad. Add in the sooty glass and It makes no difference anyway.

Am I gonna have to stop the fire to test the blowers or can I just probe the ends? Break it down for me
 
If you know what you are doing and the stove allows access to the motor power at the control board or the blower, you should be able to take the readings with the stove running.

Please be careful you can be killed by what is inside that stove when it is plugged in let alone turned on and burning.

The multimeter across the two leads to each blower motor is what we are after?

Just trying to see if they both actually step.
 
Fire on 6
 

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