Englander 30 and an OAK?

[BobUrban]

I may be mistaken but after reading posts I just want to gather information about the stove(s)

Does the 30 or any comprable stove have air control for the secondaries? I have read posts where it sounds like secondaries on many stoves have no control and this is a area of potential "run away" fire issues? Many state that they had a ball of foil or other capping device on hand for just such an emergency.

If this is true that there is no(or little) control of the back side air intake has anyone put a valve in their OAK with shut off capabilities? Could even do it without and OAK and just a short pipe and plumbing valve. Is this a common mod? Anyone use this idea? I am just thinking ahead, prior to the install of my new stove as any simple mod would be much simpler if I thought them through prior to having the stove up and running.

I have also read, recently, that many stoves have loose or leaky inakes and some have modified for more control. My chimney set up is a straight shot, through the house and about 16' with most of it being 8" not 6" so I am not super concerned about too much draft as some with really tall 6" chimneys have run into.

Just fishing for information - thanks for any input.

For the record I think this forum should be getting paid a sponsorship fee from Englander - I know with all the positive feedback here their numbers must have improved. You all certainly have my attention.

Bob

 

[pen]

The secondary air intake is a rectangular opening found above the large circular opening where the OAK would attach.

It would be possible but you'd have to decide if it would be really worth it or not. If your chimney is not excessively long, and / or you have few bends, this may be a non-issue for you.

I have about 20 feet of chimney liner, the total height would be 25 feet if you measure from the basement floor up. I have 2, 90 degree bends. I only have trouble w/ over drafting on rare occasions (like last night actually). I left the air control right where I normally run it for a cruise of about 750 and things got up to 877. I used the pipe damper and closed it for about 10 minutes and things came back to normal. Opened the damper back up and everything was fine.

Since this happens less than a handfull of times a winter for me, the pipe damper was the easiest solution for me and easiest for the wife to use as well.

If it were a more frequent or constant problem, I would consider welding a line to that secondary air inlet point and then an adjustable valve.

pen