Englander 30 NC, questions

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Dustin

Minister of Fire
Sep 3, 2008
613
Western Oregon
A couple of quick questions for you 30 owners....

Can you / have you ever shortened the legs to make this fit into a fireplace? (completely masonry fireplace, no combustible clearance issues.

If they make a short leg kit, how tall is the stove with that kit installed?

And finally, has anyone ever cooked on this thing? Is it possible?

I've decided I need something that I can cook on, or at least heat some soup during my often and long power outages we get during the winter. It's either that, or an insert that will do the same thing...

Thanks in advance,
Dustin
 
I would assume NO, as the 30 has a very high R value needed for the hearth (MIN of 1.5)... so you go and shorten the distance below it and I think you are asking for trouble. My two cents.
 
If your installing the stove in a full masonry fire place (non combustible floor) and you have the proper hearth in front you could shorten the legs, as far as cooking the stove top does get hot enough to boil water so anything is possible, just don't spill anything in the stove, it will leave a mark. Also kind of a catch 22 with the stove needing to be shorten to fit in the fire place but room on the top for cooking (unless its partially installed in the fireplace)
 
No legs = No OAK = No Thank You (for me).
 
With the optional six inch legs the stove top is 27" high but the flue collar adds another two inches. So 29" high.
 
Don't see how no legs would block the OAK as it is on the back side vertical surface. It may though be sitting right on the ash pan drawer which still would not block any the intakes
 
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I chopped mine off so the ash pan sits about an inch off the ground and slid it into my fireplace.

Works great.

20161122_210242.jpg
 
Don't see how no legs would block the OAK as it is on the back side vertical surface. It may though be sitting right on the ash pan drawer which still would not block any the intakes

From the Englander 30-NC manual:

Note on page 1:

"THIS STOVE IS MOBILE HOME AND DOUBLE WIDE APPROVED (WITH OUTSIDE
AIR HOOK-UP) FOR THE PEDESTAL MODEL ONLY – NOT FOR LEG MODELS."

Outside Air Connection on page 13:

"Outside Air Connection

When installing this model in a mobile home or double wide it is necessary to supply the
combustion air into the unit from outside the dwelling. NOTE: THIS STOVE IS MOBILE HOME AND
DOUBLE WIDE APPROVED (WITH OUTSIDE AIR HOOK-UP) FOR THE PEDESTAL MODEL ONLY
– NOT FOR LEG MODELS."
 
The pedestal has to be used in order for the secondary air intake to draw from the OAK.
 
The pedestal has to be used in order for the secondary air intake to draw from the OAK.

I dint think so bb. I have the pedestal on and it's only a three sided deal. The oak still only can feed one of four inlets to the nc30. The nc30 does not offer a "real" outside air supply option.
 
That would just leave the ped being a requirement for bolting it to the mobile home floor.
 
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We may have a winner, here!

BB, if I remember right your stove is a downstairs install. Did you have to do anything to restrict the secondary air on really cold days? I remember reading a post years ago about that, I thought.

Mine will go on the bottom floor of my second story with about 25 feet of SS liner, give it take a few feet..
 
Yes, Pedestal for floor bolting as code required for mobile home- course if ya ain't draging the 60-90 ft x12-16 wide box around what's the point. at 400# it ain't going anywhere unless the floor is weak and then it's going to be straight down.
 
We may have a winner, here!

BB, if I remember right your stove is a downstairs install. Did you have to do anything to restrict the secondary air on really cold days? I remember reading a post years ago about that, I thought.

.

My chimney is one third taller than the required height. So I placed a rectangular magnet over 1/3 of the secondary air intake. Balanced it out pretty well. Still lots of secondary air.
 
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