englander 30 nch stove heat shields

[greythorn3]

i was looking on the englander website to see if i could order heat shields to reduce my rear clearance but all they sell is the side heat shields, well where the heck are you supposed to get the rear ones from?

very strange...

i want to reduce the rear clearances not really the sides... but you have to have all 3 as far as the instructions go. but they only sell the sides! maybe i should just make heat shields.

anyone have them that can give me some dimensions thickness and distance to bends and such?

 

[pen]

All of them come w/ the rear shield installed already. The sides are optional.

pen

 

[begreen]

With the side and rear shields + a double-wall connector pipe the clearances are reduced to 5". Not bad at all for a big heating beastie.

 

[realstihl]

With the side and rear shields + a double-wall connector pipe the clearances are reduced to 5". Not bad at all for a big heating beastie.

The rear only. Wish they would have made something full length for the sides so those clearances could be reduced.

 

[pen]

personally, I'd prefer putting a shield on the wall w/ 1 in spacers behind it rather than putting the side shields on my stove if I were in this situation. That would help reduce clearances by 1/2 I do believe (7 inches, someone please check me).

pen

 

[begreen]

With the side and rear shields + a double-wall connector pipe the clearances are reduced to 5". Not bad at all for a big heating beastie.

The rear only. Wish they would have made something full length for the sides so those clearances could be reduced.

The table doesn't list rear shield only, which is odd considering that is how they are sold, unless they meant no side shields for the no heat shields column. Mike?. For their testing and listed clearances it looks like a wall shield is not a big advantage.

 

[BrotherBart]

Fact is, it is a big heat tossing mutha. It needs some room to toss it. If you need a close clearance stove it aint it.

I let the back half toss that heat into the fireplace bricks and give it back later.

 

[greythorn3]

well i was hoping to get the chimney straight up but i might have to use a offset to the stove if i dont move it back, i guess that would be ok, but i do love straight chimneys. so if i could construct the side heat shields that would be great.

that backwall idea is a great one, but there is nothing in the instructions about that and rreducing clearances. im afraid to mess to much with saftey

 

[begreen]

Order up some side shields and use double-wall pipe and you are good to go.

 

[greythorn3]

i dont want to order shipping would be bad at 40 lbs to alaska i bet. i could just buy steel and bend it up and paint it, i might just bend some aluminum up in diamond plate tho that would be unique and get polished aluminum, thats what i have on my blazeking.

 

[begreen]

Got it, I forgot about having to barge everything up north. Maybe ask Englander what the carrier would be. If UPS, maybe not too bad?

How are you doing with the heatwave up there?

 

[greythorn3]

Got it, I forgot about having to barge everything up north. Maybe ask Englander what the carrier would be. If UPS, maybe not too bad?

How are you doing with the heatwave up there?

its brutal it is 75F right now! can barely stand it!

Maybe i could have them send the shields to you and you can get um to me cheap.

I think i will just go off pictures and make them a little larger then they look for extra protection

 

[begreen]

20F cooler here right now. Hope nature checks the thermostat soon and gets things rebalanced.

 

[iceisasolid]

Englander lists the NC 30 as 5" clearance without side shields, but only from the back of the stove and only with dbl wall stove pipe.

 

[begreen]

I'm not seeing that in the clearances table posted above. 5" requires rear + side shields and double-wall pipe.

 

[iceisasolid]

Yes, you are correct about the listing, I miswrote this. When I spoke with the Englander customer service about this, they stated that out of the box, there was 5 inch clearance to an unprotected rear surface from the rear of the stove if using a dbl wall stove pipe. The unprotected sides required 20 inches. I will be calling Englander about this. Perhaps I will be buying the side shields for insurance purposes. Thanks for re-posting.

 

[begreen]

You are not the first to be confused by these docs. Odd thing is that you can add the side shields+ double-wall pipe and still get no side clearance reduction.

 

[iceisasolid]

One piece of evidence for me about the "out of the box" clearance is that the wall shield that I have on is always able to have a hand rested on it at ANY point during the burn cycle and is never too hot to rest a bare hand on. The 24 AC, with the rear heat shield,that I was using at 10 inches from the wall made the wall too hot to touch, thus I put up the rustic appearing wall protection with conduit spacing, durarock, and galavanized tin.

 

[greythorn3]

I put up the rustic appearing wall protection with conduit spacing, durarock, and galavanized tin.

thats the layers you got? 1" air space between wall and panel? how thick is your wall then? i layer durock and what tin? a sheet of tin?

 

[begreen]

The key protection for the wall shield is the air gap behind it and the fact that it is open, top and bottom to allow good air convection behind it. It can be just metal, like painted (or raw) sheet metal, or stainless, or stamped tin, etc. Or it can be fancier with tile or stone on cement board. As long as it is ventilated and totally non-combustible, and extending 6" higher than the flue collar, it should work well.

 

[iceisasolid]

I put up the rustic appearing wall protection with conduit spacing, durarock, and galavanized tin.

thats the layers you got? 1" air space between wall and panel? how thick is your wall then? i layer durock and what tin? a sheet of tin?

Conduit runs vertical and is screwed to the wall. I would have just put the tin, but running ridges vertical made it too floppy to work with, so I put the durarock behind it to make it sturdier and also should I choose, I can hang non-combustable implements from it now. The minimum needed would be 1" conduit and a noncombustable surface. I like the look of painted corrugated tin and it's very cheap. I paid about 12-17$ for the tin and the conduit combined. I chose conduit because was cheaper than the ceramic spacers and they provide more support for wall shield.

The wall is only finished on one side and is uninsulated. Not sure why you ask, though. It is an internal wall separating an unfinished basement from the finished basemement. The wall temp behind the barrier never gets hot. Heck, the heat shield never gets too hot to hold a hand to it.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

With the side and rear shields + a double-wall connector pipe the clearances are reduced to 5". Not bad at all for a big heating beastie.

The rear only. Wish they would have made something full length for the sides so those clearances could be reduced.

The table doesn't list rear shield only, which is odd considering that is how they are sold, unless they meant no side shields for the no heat shields column. Mike?. For their testing and listed clearances it looks like a wall shield is not a big advantage.

its a standard chart , the reason is says "no heat shield" is because the rear shield is not "bolt on" its welded on so its part of the stove , it really should read "rear shield only" i guess but that confuses folks too as they call asking for the rear shield. so "no shields" means no side shields in this case, if the stove didnt have an integral welded on rear shield the clearances in the rear would be much larger.

anyway , here's the poop;

right outta the box , use the clearances for "no heat shields" 20,14 &15; inches note a rear clearance of14" will bring your single wall pipe to 16 inches, which will require wall protection from the pipe, so if the stove is set 16 inches out you would make your clearance of 18 inches, i'll explain this mess below, i aint happy with it but its out of our hands)

if shields are added use the clearance specified depending on which connector pipe you use remember with single wall the 18 inch clearance applies also.


now getting to the pipe clearance and stove clearance mess; when the stoves are tested for UL 1482 compliance(not epa mind you , thats emmissions, UL is safety) the clearances recorded and specified are made with no regard for where this places the connector pipe its done strictly by reading heat output from stove surfaces at different distances (they do this with moving walls that have thermocouplers mounted on them) so they are testing the stove heat output , not the connectors heat output, therefore NFPA 211 clearances have to be observed 18" for single wall 6" for double wall

 

[stoveguy2esw]

personally, I'd prefer putting a shield on the wall w/ 1 in spacers behind it rather than putting the side shields on my stove if I were in this situation. That would help reduce clearances by 1/2 I do believe (7 inches, someone please check me).

pen

clearances reduction from NFPA 211 is max of 66% or as close as 12 inches, inside 12 inches wall protection does NOT allow further reduction, in other words if your stove requires 36 inches you can reduce to 12 (66% right) however, if your stove's listing ALREADY gives you say 9 inches (just to use a number) you CANNOT reduce that by 66% (or close as 3 inches) it doesnt work that way so with a rear clearance of 14 " listed you would only be able to reduce to the minimum allowed which is 12 inches , not the full 66%

pen, its a common misconception unfortunately ive broken many hearts with having to explain this to customers over the years

heat shields integral with stoves generally give closer clearances than wall protectors do simply due to physics, a heat shield is designed (as a wall protector is) to change the direction of heat through passive convection. it works like this;

heat radiates from the firebox, the heat warms a space(the air) between the shield and the firebox on a stove , or the space between the wall protector and the wall in that case causing it to rise, the reason both are left open above and below is to allow warmed air to leave and cooler air to enter creating almost a chimney effect. this changes the direction of the radience (heat) from horizontal to vertical, keeping the radiation from warming the protected surface too much by removing it and replacing with cooler air constantly. the reason that heat shields allow closer clearances is that this redirection of heat occurs farther from the protected surface with heat shields than it does with a wall mounted protector.

make sense bro?

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Got it, I forgot about having to barge everything up north. Maybe ask Englander what the carrier would be. If UPS, maybe not too bad?

How are you doing with the heatwave up there?

carrier would be UPS, the OP can call my parts department and ask for bianca,800-516-3636 she can get you a quote on shipping with a zip code feel free to tell her i said to ask for her