Thanks to everyones input I nuckled down and invested in an Englander nc-30. Its taken some time but I am finally learning how to operated this stove correctly. I have tried loading it north to south, east to west and also both direction stacked. i wanted to ask what is the proper way to load this type of stove. Also how deep should I let the bet of ambers get before I start to remove some? And I have a pipe dampener installed, if Im going to use it what is the proper setting for it? Thanks in advance for the info.
Englander nc-30
- Thread starter meatis20b
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Great stove (I'm biased), before I share my 2 cents, could you tell us about the flue / chimney this is hooked too? About how tall? What type? What size? Insulated or not? Interior or exterior? Using single or double wall pipe to connect to it?
pen
pen
Its located in my basement. Its single wall 4' foot riser off the stove 90 degree bend with a 3' horizontal run into a 20' masonary chimney. No problems with the draft or anything.
Basement install here too. Used to have it feed into a 7x7 masonry chimney and I lined it w/ SS 2 years ago.
I prefer N-S burning, but others have reported success w/ E-W. Each time I try E-W I'll get a longer burn but I need to leave the air open more, I get a much cooler stove top, and I end up making a bunch of charcoal. If it were in the upstairs of the house, I might have better luck w/ the E-W and experiment more with it but I need the higher stove top temps from the basement so I go w/ the N-S almost exclusively.
During the shoulder season, when I am only putting partial loads once or 2x per day, in I'll let the ashes get pretty deep as they help keep the coals longer so I don't have to start from a cold stove. During this time, I'll let them get deep enough to almost block the "doghouse" air (that air intake front center of the firebox). During 24/7 burning in the dead of winter when I need this thing cranking, I empty the ashes pretty often (every 3rd day or so) to maintain maximum room int he firebox.
I also have a pipe damper on my stove. I don't recommend using it unless you find that your stove top temps are excessively high (can't control the burn down low enough w/ the stove's draft control). I'd recommend a stove top thermometer centered on the stove just in-front of the step. I'd suggest a condar stove-top unit or better yet, an InfraRed hand-held thermometer. My average "redline" for the stove is 750 although it has been known to go higher from time to time. In 3 years with the unit I've only personally used the damper 3 or 4 times because of windy and extremely cold (lots of draft) conditions making the stove take off on me. For 99% of my burns, I pretend it's not even there. My wife has a knack at getting stoves really hot accidentally, she tends to use the stove pipe damper as an emergency brake. If you use the damper in any condition other than an excessive draft situation, you'll disrupt the pattern of airflow through the stove and it may not burn as efficiently.
Hope you are as happy with yours as I have been with mine.
pen
I prefer N-S burning, but others have reported success w/ E-W. Each time I try E-W I'll get a longer burn but I need to leave the air open more, I get a much cooler stove top, and I end up making a bunch of charcoal. If it were in the upstairs of the house, I might have better luck w/ the E-W and experiment more with it but I need the higher stove top temps from the basement so I go w/ the N-S almost exclusively.
During the shoulder season, when I am only putting partial loads once or 2x per day, in I'll let the ashes get pretty deep as they help keep the coals longer so I don't have to start from a cold stove. During this time, I'll let them get deep enough to almost block the "doghouse" air (that air intake front center of the firebox). During 24/7 burning in the dead of winter when I need this thing cranking, I empty the ashes pretty often (every 3rd day or so) to maintain maximum room int he firebox.
I also have a pipe damper on my stove. I don't recommend using it unless you find that your stove top temps are excessively high (can't control the burn down low enough w/ the stove's draft control). I'd recommend a stove top thermometer centered on the stove just in-front of the step. I'd suggest a condar stove-top unit or better yet, an InfraRed hand-held thermometer. My average "redline" for the stove is 750 although it has been known to go higher from time to time. In 3 years with the unit I've only personally used the damper 3 or 4 times because of windy and extremely cold (lots of draft) conditions making the stove take off on me. For 99% of my burns, I pretend it's not even there. My wife has a knack at getting stoves really hot accidentally, she tends to use the stove pipe damper as an emergency brake. If you use the damper in any condition other than an excessive draft situation, you'll disrupt the pattern of airflow through the stove and it may not burn as efficiently.
Hope you are as happy with yours as I have been with mine.
pen
Thanks for the info. I havent messed around with the pipe damper much because I myself wasnt sure how it would go with this stove. It was here when I bought the house. The family before me had installed it with theyre old stove. Its 25 degrees here now and the house is 70 so I think Im doing alright. The upstairs of my house is only 1100 sqft. and my basement minus the garage is prob about 700 sqft. I am happy with the stove though good burn time with less wood works for me. Im happy that I havent turned on my heat yet this year. Plus I picked it up at lowes for $750 and that includes the delivery fee. I appreciate the help. Thanks again
Sounds like our homes are about identical in size.
I only have something like R-9 insulation in the walls and R-38 in the ceiling. Basement is only 4foot concrete walls and studded above.
Only time I struggle to keep it 68 or higher in here is when we have days w/ highs in the single digits. Even then, if I use the oven to cook supper that usually bumps the heat up enough to make up the difference so that it's comfortable for the evening upstairs. Or, we just head down to the family room in the basement w/ the stove and enjoy the evening there.
Worst case scenario I have a 6 foot electric baseboard heater that I can turn on to supplement or just let the furnace run for 20 mins or so to catch things back up. During a typical winter, I don't have to worry about this more than a handful of times. The other 90+% of the time this is more than enough stove.
pen
I only have something like R-9 insulation in the walls and R-38 in the ceiling. Basement is only 4foot concrete walls and studded above.
Only time I struggle to keep it 68 or higher in here is when we have days w/ highs in the single digits. Even then, if I use the oven to cook supper that usually bumps the heat up enough to make up the difference so that it's comfortable for the evening upstairs. Or, we just head down to the family room in the basement w/ the stove and enjoy the evening there.
Worst case scenario I have a 6 foot electric baseboard heater that I can turn on to supplement or just let the furnace run for 20 mins or so to catch things back up. During a typical winter, I don't have to worry about this more than a handful of times. The other 90+% of the time this is more than enough stove.
pen
SlyFerret
Minister of Fire
I don't think there is a "Proper" way to load the 30. I try not to lost it above the firebrick, and I try to leave a little airspace behind the load, and on the sides too on the occasions that I pack it full.
I burn in cycles, which helps not to build up tons of coals. I would hate to remove hot coals if I didn't have to. Its wasted BTU's if you ask me.
Building a small hot fire might help you burn the coals down. I would think that experimenting with load size and reload timing could help solve that problem.
What type of wood are you using? The type of wood is actually something else we have under our control, so it is worth thinking about.
-SF
I burn in cycles, which helps not to build up tons of coals. I would hate to remove hot coals if I didn't have to. Its wasted BTU's if you ask me.
Building a small hot fire might help you burn the coals down. I would think that experimenting with load size and reload timing could help solve that problem.
What type of wood are you using? The type of wood is actually something else we have under our control, so it is worth thinking about.
-SF
leeave96
Minister of Fire
meatis20b said:
I tried all kinds of burning techniques when I got my stove with mixed results. Now I burn N/S, set the damper to maintain a 550ish stove top temperature and enjoy the stove. Pretty simple to operate and really throughs the heat! I have a stove pipe damper only there to help squash a run away burn - which I've never had.
Good luck,
Bill
I burn mostly oak, some black locust and I have a little tulip. I generally dont burn big loads accept for at night. I usually refuel at 300 on cold days but mostly 250ish and I still have a huge bed of ambers. I just dont want the temp to get to low. Anything you could recommend?
I also have the 30 and I mostly load it N/S and at times go cross NS/EW and i usually keep the stove top at 450 to 500. I burn mostly black locust this year since is what I cut nearly two summers ago in my backyard. I also have some maple that has been split for about a year and a half. Im still learning my 30 but its working great for us.
I burn the 30 mostly N/S. Every year I start off burning E/W because dang it that was what it was designed for. And this year for the first time figured out how to do it fairly well. Then got tired of jacking with it when it got cold and went back to N/S. That square firebox just screams for N/S loading with 16" to 18" splits.
I usually rake the coals to the center and put 1 large split on each side of the coals, then one split in center on top of the coals. Learned that one on this forum last year and it works well. At times there is a tunnel under the center split and secondary's ignite from back to front.
I have never removed amber's from the stove just rake them forward and open the draft. Cracking the door slightly for a couple minutes will really get them glowing.
Mrs. Krabappel
Minister of Fire
The 30 owners on this board are a very high brow bunch. ;-) You may need to ask for extra starch in your shirts to fit in.
Agent
Member
I find that if I wait to reload until 200ish, then I don't have near the buildup of coals for when reloading hotter.
raybonz
Minister of Fire
GAMMA RAY said:Did I tell you all how much I love my 30?
He gives me hours and hours of pleasure, warmth and entertainment....I can't imagine life without him...
:lol: :coolgrin:
Sounds like one hot guy!
Ray
Dix
Minister of Fire
GAMMA RAY said:Did I tell you all how much I love my 30?
He gives me hours and hours of pleasure, warmth and entertainment....I can't imagine life without him...
:lol: :coolgrin:
Geez, I hope George isn't reading this.
*waves to George*
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