Hi everyone at Hearth Forum.
I'm Foxler and owner of a 2011 Englander 25-PDVC. I must say doing install and setup is a lot of work, but what made it harder was getting it to work. Since I've installed my stove 2 months ago. It never seem to work right, wouldn't start sometimes or burn it's self out. No matter what setting I used from factory 6.4.1 or 4.4.1, even 6.9.1 (Englnader Tech said so). Wouldn't work right, even changing heat mode from A to d. I was about to pull out my fur and kicking the stove didn't do much, but make my stove pipe fall from the ceiling.
I did spent more than few phone calls with Englnader with no help. Only ofter I got was spent money on replacement parts and hope it works. Here what I spec out for this stove, I used 15' Selkirk Direct Temp with their pellet kit. Pipe goes vertical through the roof (old fireplace). There no air leaks in pipe or intake so it should work one might hope. So what caught my eye on issue was, it was feeding to late. Fire was already out when it would drop pellets. I was thinking must be setting I'm missing. I try everything and some nights it would stay on all night, but when it got really cold. Take forever get it working so it can reach normal temp.
I started pulling stove apart, when I did I found nothing wrong. Motors, feeder, vacuum switch, temp, door seals and hoses were perfect. I did find inside my pipe, it was almost clogged. Only 2 month of use, look like bad end of sewage pipe. By this time I was going to buy new stove, this was wast of time, but I gave it one more try without any of the sensors and it work great. I was able to trim down my setting to 3.2.1/d. It would feed fire just before it would go out.
This what I found, look like the vacuum switch for the fire box only coming on after all fire gone and once fire kick up after loading it with massive pellets. It kick off right away. From my understand this not normal, so do I have a weak vacuum switch? Shouldn't switch only come off if fire box blower fails or door is open? As of now I have bypass only firebox switch and still running great.
Any help on this matter would be great. I must say this was a lot harder than hacking PayPal (banned in 2006)
Was it really that simple
??
Foxler
I'm Foxler and owner of a 2011 Englander 25-PDVC. I must say doing install and setup is a lot of work, but what made it harder was getting it to work. Since I've installed my stove 2 months ago. It never seem to work right, wouldn't start sometimes or burn it's self out. No matter what setting I used from factory 6.4.1 or 4.4.1, even 6.9.1 (Englnader Tech said so). Wouldn't work right, even changing heat mode from A to d. I was about to pull out my fur and kicking the stove didn't do much, but make my stove pipe fall from the ceiling.
I did spent more than few phone calls with Englnader with no help. Only ofter I got was spent money on replacement parts and hope it works. Here what I spec out for this stove, I used 15' Selkirk Direct Temp with their pellet kit. Pipe goes vertical through the roof (old fireplace). There no air leaks in pipe or intake so it should work one might hope. So what caught my eye on issue was, it was feeding to late. Fire was already out when it would drop pellets. I was thinking must be setting I'm missing. I try everything and some nights it would stay on all night, but when it got really cold. Take forever get it working so it can reach normal temp.
I started pulling stove apart, when I did I found nothing wrong. Motors, feeder, vacuum switch, temp, door seals and hoses were perfect. I did find inside my pipe, it was almost clogged. Only 2 month of use, look like bad end of sewage pipe. By this time I was going to buy new stove, this was wast of time, but I gave it one more try without any of the sensors and it work great. I was able to trim down my setting to 3.2.1/d. It would feed fire just before it would go out.
This what I found, look like the vacuum switch for the fire box only coming on after all fire gone and once fire kick up after loading it with massive pellets. It kick off right away. From my understand this not normal, so do I have a weak vacuum switch? Shouldn't switch only come off if fire box blower fails or door is open? As of now I have bypass only firebox switch and still running great.
Any help on this matter would be great. I must say this was a lot harder than hacking PayPal (banned in 2006)
Was it really that simple
??Foxler
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