Englands 25 pdv/55shp10

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whitneya

New Member
Dec 15, 2011
4
Mountains of VT
My stove, a 2005 25PDVC was a hand-me-down from my mother. I assumed that all the parts were there but I was trying to do some problem solveing to figure out why the right side of the vent does not blow as hard as the left. I found out that I am missing my Impingement Plate, the plate that would normally be above the burn pot blocking the vents from ash. I have ordered it. The tech guy said to bang on the back wall with a rubber mallet to free up the right side. Any advice thoughts or concerns.
 
whitneya said:
My stove, a 2005 25PDVC was a hand-me-down from my mother. I assumed that all the parts were there but I was trying to do some problem solveing to figure out why the right side of the vent does not blow as hard as the left. I found out that I am missing my Impingement Plate, the plate that would normally be above the burn pot blocking the vents from ash. I have ordered it. The tech guy said to bang on the back wall with a rubber mallet to free up the right side. Any advice thoughts or concerns.

I'm assuming the advice was to loosen up ash, if that was the case I'd also recommend using a leaf blower in vacuum mode on the venting to remove what you loosen up.

Basically any used stove, no matter where it comes from needs a full tear down and cleaning, all blowers need to be removed and cleaned (and if there are oil ports oiled with the correct oil), this requires gaskets before doing the work, in addition all gaskets need to be tested and replaced if they fail the dollar bill test.
 
Is there any major damage that could have happen becuase the pellet stove was run without the plate. I am asuming the plate also controls the amount of fly ash is sucked out the pipe and I am hoping the plate will also bring down the amount of ash on the side of my house
 
whitneya said:
Is there any major damage that could have happen becuase the pellet stove was run without the plate. I am asuming the plate also controls the amount of fly ash is sucked out the pipe and I am hoping the plate will also bring down the amount of ash on the side of my house

The damage if any should show up as warpage and cracks. The fact the plate was off wouldn't be the problem, the problem would happen due to continuously running the stove with a bad ash blockage, the stove will then overheat warping and or cracking parts of the firebox.

Usually such an overheating situation gets caught by the heat sensor and the stoves controller then shuts the stove down tossing an over fired indication. But it is possible that the blockage also prevents the sensor from seeing the condition (ash is an excellent insulator).

ETA: That plate also controls the air flow paths through the stove so it extracts more heat from the fire. It is critical to the heat output and without it the exhaust goes through the stove too fast.
 
Does anyone have an image or the schematics of the heat exchange pipes and the outgoing smoking. I just have the picture from the manual but it really does not show how, where, why air is being moved/ smoke. I just want to better understand the air exchange system so when I clean it I know what is important for me to get clean
 
I don't or I'd post it. That is something that should be in any manual the owner gets.

Send a PM to member stoveguy2esw and ask about such a diagram. He is Mike Holton, head tech support chap at England Stove Works, nice guy, contributes here all the time (fits right in with the rest of us inmates ;-) )
 
There is no airl flow diagram in the manual. It blows more and hotter on the left due to air flow from convection fan.
 
Using a flash light I look into it, It looks like there are two completely different sides or channels for air. Did Englanders have two fans at one point??
 
whitneya said:
Using a flash light I look into it, It looks like there are two completely different sides or channels for air. Did Englanders have two fans at one point??

Yes they did. But are you just looking at the convection side, got to keep the fact there are two sides of a heat exchanger in mind.

A left hand and right hand side.

If you go to their site in the parts section you'll see references to which stove had this configuration and when ordering replacement parts you had to specify which side the replacement blower was for.
 
My brand new 25-PDVC blows harder from the left side than the right and I have seen others here say the same thing about theirs.
 
If you look through the grill it looks like it has two ducts, look through the back and you'll see it has one. I think it's a v shaped deflector to split air flow to left and right sides.
 
TLHinCanada said:
If you look through the grill it looks like it has two ducts, look through the back and you'll see it has one. I think it's a v shaped deflector to split air flow to left and right sides.

Depending upon the stove and when it was made a number of England stoves actually did have two convection blowers, I do not believe that any of their current ones do.
 
TLHinCanada said:
There is no airl flow diagram in the manual. It blows more and hotter on the left due to air flow from convection fan.

Ah, but it should be and if enough owners growl perhaps Mike will see that the air paths are spelled out in the manual for all stoves.
 
Your right and at the same time the path for the exhaust should be included. It would make knowing how to clean the stove properly much easier. This stove weighs around 290 lbs. when its in your basement its there to stay. Most people learn how to clean there stove by reading a thread by someone who is already in trouble, for me I didn't see any threads for the system and didn't realize how much the stoves performance was being degraded. It took me 4 months to find the point in exhaust path were the ash was piling up and make a 1/2" hose adapter for the shop vac. I now clean these points weekly. I did note recently in another thread Mike from
englander told an OP to make up a garden hose adapter for the shop vac. I didn't know whether to feel wonderful that I solved the problem in the same way or irate that englander didn't put it in the manual. Having said that, part of the fun of owning a pellet stove is solving these problems and not paying for a service call (as well as getting covered in soot up to the elbows every week).
 
TLHinCanada said:
Your right and at the same time the path for the exhaust should be included. It would make knowing how to clean the stove properly much easier. This stove weighs around 290 lbs. when its in your basement its there to stay. Most people learn how to clean there stove by reading a thread by someone who is already in trouble, for me I didn't see any threads for the system and didn't realize how much the stoves performance was being degraded. It took me 4 months to find the point in exhaust path were the ash was piling up and make a 1/2" hose adapter for the shop vac. I now clean these points weekly. I did note recently in another thread Mike from
englander told an OP to make up a garden hose adapter for the shop vac. I didn't know whether to feel wonderful that I solved the problem in the same way or irate that englander didn't put it in the manual. Having said that, part of the fun of owning a pellet stove is solving these problems and not paying for a service call (as well as getting covered in soot up to the elbows every week).

That 4 months is one of the reasons I bring up the leaf blower trick when the opportunity presents itself, it is the super shop vacuum of last resort, if your stove is really plugged a bit of poking with brushes, pounding on walls (not cast iron ones), and then attach that to the end of the exhaust outside let it rip, go back inside and do more wall tapping (watch out this is not good for cast iron) , open and close the door a few times, it will do an excellent job of removing the ash. There are other aids one can use as well.

Just be kind to the neighbors and never aim that thing at anything you don't want buried in ash or to change color.

Plugged exhaust paths can show up in so many different ways it is just incredible. This is also the reason most of us want to start from a known clean stove before implicating a part as being bad.
 
my exhaust is 6' from my neighbors house, what do you think he would say. Sometimes the only way to clean it is to tear it down once a year, and during the year find all the nooks and crannies. With this model there is no tubed heat exchanger, its very simple. Fortuately the exhaust path isn't to long and a flex hose can reach the fan from the firebox side and the cleanout tee.
 
TLHinCanada said:
my exhaust is 6' from my neighbors house, what do you think he would say. Sometimes the only way to clean it is to tear it down once a year, and during the year find all the nooks and crannies. With this model there is no tubed heat exchanger, its very simple. Fortuately the exhaust path isn't to long and a flex hose can reach the fan from the firebox side and the cleanout tee.

In that case you need to construct a filter bag for the leaf blower or attach a hose to the blower's exhaust long enough to get the end away from the neighbors place. That is why I said be kind to the neighbors. Likewise it is possible to attach a hose to the vacuum end and the exhaust. You can also use a high powered shop vac with appropriate filter, the leaf blower usually has a larger air flow than the shop vac. and makes short work of matters and it keeps the ash out of the room that stove is in, that is provided you don't hook up the wrong end to the venting.

I'm fortunate. I have several hundred feet of firing range and I aim for the lawn. I call it liming the lawn while cleaning the stove and ash traps, less walking, reuse of a waste product, and a nice clean, happy, safe, and warm stove. A multi win. As a bonus it even helps melt the snow in the winter.
 
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