Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by loudog, Oct 8, 2012.
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No, you don't need to burn full stove loads of wood if the temps outside are milder. And the fan trick I mentioned really works at both tempering the stove room and convecting the heat to the rest of the house.
No fireview, but here is another angle taken with a REAL camera!
Great, that's good to know. Thanks.
Hoping the local place has a Clydesdale on display...if so, the wife'll be going to scope it out today.
I was going to jump,in here and recomend the VC montpelier but I don't think the fire place is wide enough at 24" We really like ours.
That's a really nice looking stove. It would actually fit, the hearth depth is 24" but the fireplace opening width is 35", so it looks like it'd fit. We like the stoves that stick out a bit so we can throw a kettle of water on there to keep the air from drying out too badly, again though, that's a nice looking stove. I'll have my wife check it out when she's at the local dealer today. Though, I've read some discouraging things about VC in my searching, so that brand isn't at the top of our list.
Hot dog...didn't know the Clydesdale was so expensive, $3,400 at our local shop (without installation). Very nice though. Guess we'll have to compromise somewhere...price, style, or size.
Yes we are in peak season now and this is a premium unit. Maybe back to the Enviro 1700 with a small shim on the surround?
We love the Boston/Venice and would be buying one of those, but the stove is 1/2" too deep. So, without working on the fireplace...it wont' fit. Bummer. Might be cheaper to work on the fireplace though as opposed to buying the Clydesdale.
Edit: Oops, didn't see your comment about the shim somehow!
As mentioned earlier, you can shim the surround. A 1/2" gap is pretty easy to handle. Or just go for the Regency.
Yeah, I'm starting to think more about that considering the pricing of the Clydesdale. Though, when my wife was at the shop a few minutes ago they put a SALE sticker on it, lowering the price to $3,100. So, $4,200 installed. Only about $600 more than the Enviro 1700 and Hampton I300. If I knew the answers to these questions I feel like I could make a good decision. Any help filling in the blanks is really appreciated.
1. Would we ever use the full capacity of the Clydesdale, or would a full-box-fire heat us out of the room?
2. Can an Enviro 1200 pull an overnight burn?
3. Are the reported Enviro 1200 numbers inflated (high burn time and heat output with small firebox - see OP for actual numbers)?
4. How much would it cost to bring an Enviro 1700 surround to a local sheet metal shop to add 1/2" of thickness so we could slide that bad larry in?
5. Is there any chance that modifying the surround or fireplace would cause a permit issue?
I wouldn't worry about overheating the room. For me a slightly warm room isn't a big problem, and I think as a bump-out room you will need a lot of heat in there. The larger the stove, the longer the burn time, and burn time is a very important factor, in my opinion.
Thanks. Even as a rookie I'm thinking the same about burn time. Less work for your heat. I'm especially interested that the selected stove can pull an overnight burn to prevent having to re-light everyday.
Enviro says the Venice 1200 can burn 6-10 hrs, but that seems high considering the 1.86 ft^3 box. Maybe not though...I'm clueless!
Thanks begreen! That's a big help. I think I'm all set with the 1200, I want to make sure I can get overnight burns without too much trouble.
The wife and I've agreed to make a final decision tonight since we have about all the information we'll ever get and the cold is fast approaching.
At this point the options are:
1. The attractive/expensive (rattlely blowered?) Clydesdale with a semi-unattractive mantle shield [about $4,200]
2. The attractive/well priced Venice 1700 with some modification to the surround [about $3,700]
3. The good looking/well priced, bio-brick warrantied, Hampton I300 that just doesn't fully go with our mantle (style-wise) [about $3,600]
LOL, sorry, I meant, can you fit a Fireview (Woodstock)?
See mine here. It's a side loader so front clearances are low...
Ha! If you had just capitalized it. I kid, I kid. I was wondering if you were talking about a view from the fireplace out or something I wasn't savvy to!
I will check out the clearances. Thanks.
I think you'll find most of the permit peeps" don't know their arse from thier elbow..
Hopefully that works in my favor as opposed to against it!
Question, I was checking out the clearances for the Clydesdale, in the image here is "B" the distance to that first piece of wood trim on my mantle (which is 2" thick), or the distance to the top shelf of the mantle?
That's going to be the Closest combustible surface, whether it be trim or actual mantle.
Yup, but a mantel shield will be your friend. You can see mine in the pic I posted - it is not very pretty but I had a machine shop make it for me - you can definitely get a nicer designed one.
And the mantel shield doesn't need to be up under the mantel. It can be at the insert level, starting at the surround. That's definitely where I would put it in this situation.
Cool, thanks guys. That's what we were just discussing (wife and I)...maybe a small sheet metal shield one inch below the lowest portion of the mantle. Powdercoat it white and we'd never think twice about it. That seems to be the NFPA requisite, 24 gauge sheet metal one inch below the combustible surface? I'm thinking of calling the town inspector tomorrow just to be sure that'll be OK.
I wouldn't put the shield up against the nice woodwork. It can be lower, at the insert level. That would be more attractive IMO.
This shield diagram (right side) is for a Jotul insert, but the principal is the same. Maybe show this to the inspector as well.
I think I was typing at the same time as you for my last post....
Thanks for the diagram. It's a little blurry, but if I'm reading it correctly, I wouldn't need a very wide shield down at the surround. Do you have a link to the manual that diagram came from Be, so I can show it to the inspector?
I was originally thinking, since my first part of the mantle protrudes 2", of putting a 2 1/2 to 3" piece of sheet metal below that portion of the mantle, parallel to the ground, just like a little shelf below the mantle. Powdercoat it white to match. Would that be kosher?
Either way, I don't think it'd be too offensive. Sadly, we're leaning toward the Clydesdale at this point...despite the gross expense! But it's soooo purdy....
Click on the diagram for the full size image. I'm reading 24" to the mantel and top trim in the Clydesdale manual. I think the shield would need to project from the surround 1" past where 24" hits the mantel molding.
The Jotul C450 manual is located here: http://www.jotul.com/en-US/wwwjotulus/Main-menu/Technical-documentation/
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