enviro ef 3 damper rod setting

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56 chevtruck

New Member
Jan 14, 2008
114
nova scotia canada
hi everyone this is a great site here! lots of good info. i just just have a question for enviro ef3 owners/servicepeople(hearthtools?) . i cleaned my stove recently i pulled left side off where damper rod is to clean exhaust blower but might have lost my damper setting. how far out in general should the damper rod be pulled out without using a magnehelic or using flame pattern in manual? just dont want to play with it too much. i have beeen running stove with damper out about 1/2 way is this close even on hi fire.
 
Sorry for the delay
I was trying to find time to add this to the Sticky pages


Without a Magnahilic this is the best way to dial In air adjustment.

With the stove on High and running for 15 minutes after start up.
Push the air rod in. you will see a tall ugly lazy flame
then [b}slowly[/b] pull the rod out
as the flame comes down, more intense and be more yellow
when the flame looks like it is not changing anymore stop pulling out.
If you have sparks popping this is normal
but you don’t want to see PELLETS popping out.
If you get Brown or Grey soot on the glass and firebrick this is normal
if you have BLACK soot on the firebrick and glass pull the air out a little more.
 
thanks hearthtools for your tips .i did find a magnehelic gage from a co worker after posting thread. :coolsmile: i marked rod for reference. co worker says lots of gages on ebay. i like what you said in some of your tips about ash drawer being tight this was a help as well . i had .18-.20 on gage pull up on drawer and gage went to .12-.13 as called for on high fire. i stacked 2 pennies on top of one another and metal foil tape them together and wedged them under pan and reading stayed put.so if pot builds up some i should pull rod out more?
 
56 chevtruck said:
thanks hearthtools for your tips .i did find a magnehelic gage from a co worker after posting thread. :coolsmile: i marked rod for reference. co worker says lots of gages on ebay. i like what you said in some of your tips about ash drawer being tight this was a help as well . i had .18-.20 on gage pull up on drawer and gage went to .12-.13 as called for on high fire. i stacked 2 pennies on top of one another and metal foil tape them together and wedged them under pan and reading stayed put.so if pot builds up some i should pull rod out more?

If you have more that .13 the pot build up is going to be because of pellets not the stove.
as long as you are not getting BLACK soot.
 
hey rod sorryif i confused the situation but i should have said i had stove set at the ideal .12-.13 setting and i found that it built up a bit on high fire after an hour or so. question still remains should i leave damper alone when on high fire or pull it out a bit more so it doesnt build up or get other pot liner they list ?
 
Im sure the EF 3 does not control the combustion speed with feed rate because it does not have a phase controler.
(unless you have the thermostat retrofit kit)
so you do have to adjust the air if you run the stove from hi to low.

Most of the time Clinkering build up is a Pellet problem.

Black soot and or lazy flame is a stove problem
 
that was fast rod . i will try pulling rod out a bit more on high fire and see how it does/does not build up. would other liner for high ash be of any benefit?
 
Clear up the air adjustment

You will only need to adjust the air if you go from burning on high and when you burn on the low setting and the pellets burn up to fast and the fire goes out you MAY need to limit the air for the low settings.

Also on any pellet stove if you run on the lowest setting and the fire keeps going out this is normaly due to Inuniform pellet lenghth
or too long.

Best to keep bumping up the feed rate till you find the sweet spot.

On the TIMER type Enviro. PRE CONTROL BOARD stoves
Some auger timers were only 1 to 2 seconds auger on time and this would cause a problem with low.
The new replacement timers we now have are around 3 seconds auger on time.
 
56 chevtruck said:
that was fast rod . i will try pulling rod out a bit more on high fire and see how it does/does not build up. would other liner for high ash be of any benefit?

It might help some for there are more holes and larger but not sure

the only way to cure the problem with clinkers is to get an Omega
LOL
 
my stove was bought new last year.i think it is thermostat capable if manual is correct.it has gone out on setting number one(first mark) a few times will try the air adjusment as you mentioned thanks.
 
56 chevtruck said:
my stove was bought new last year.i think it is thermostat capable if manual is correct.it has gone out on setting number one(first mark) a few times will try the air adjusment as you mentioned thanks.

As far as I know ALL EF3's are not thermostat OUT OF THE BOX
They use the OLD but proven technology of Timers and Voltage controls and NOT electronic control boards.

They had a retro kit
it had a different dial O fire and a Phase controller to change the speed of the combustion blower when it went into low mode.
DID NOT WORK WORTH A CRAP. Had so many calles we just took them off the stove and put them back to the tried and True original set up.
 
mine just has 2 knobs 1 for convection blower and bottom one for pellet feed and green rocker swith.just out of curiousity rod would you ship parts to canada via usps if i needed anything?some stuff might be still cheaper to get in the usa.thanks again george.
 
56 chevtruck said:
mine just has 2 knobs 1 for convection blower and bottom one for pellet feed and green rocker swith.just out of curiousity rod would you ship parts to canada via usps if i needed anything?some stuff might be still cheaper to get in the usa.thanks again george.

You can choose the international US mail in our shopping cart
the rate is higher but the customs are lower than UPS
We charge more for the Post mail because we have to go to the post office and wait inline
UPS come to us twice a day.
and make sure you put in your order comment that please no substitution UPS for US MAIL
 
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