Singed Eyebrows
Minister of Fire
Hi, Welcome, thats a fair price & should sell. You might want to also list that on Ebay , Randyrvf1 said:
Everything Fisher
- Thread starter coaly
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Hi; rvf1. I could be a litttle rusty, (or I may have looked at a few too many stoves) but that looks like a GrandMa Bear in your pictures..... The trees are too close together at the door seam for the wide doors of a Grandpa. The space from the F to the hinge and the space from the R to the hinge is not enough for a Grandpa as well. But pictures can be deceiving. Grandpa measures 29 1/2" across top plate. Grandma is only 25 1/2".
Here's Grandpa and Grandma doors showing the difference;
Here's Grandpa and Grandma doors showing the difference;
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Most expensive Fisher stove I've seen to date went for $1626. (eBay) last night 5 miles from my home !
Makes me feel good that I'm no longer the highest bidder of an old Fisher when I bought the XL for $1025. !
This stove is a 1983 brass and glass, and has only been fired once. The seller has a second Fisher larger and nicer than this one;
Makes me feel good that I'm no longer the highest bidder of an old Fisher when I bought the XL for $1025. !
This stove is a 1983 brass and glass, and has only been fired once. The seller has a second Fisher larger and nicer than this one;
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Coaly, you are right!! I just ran down and measured. Updated my listing (and dropped my price). Thanks for the help!
http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/atq/2058291469.html
http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/atq/2058291469.html
Singed Eyebrows
Minister of Fire
Have you checked Ebays completed listings? Your stove should have sold for your old $450.00 price. I'm not trying to tell you what to do, I am trying to help you get the most for your stove though, Randyrvf1 said:
Yeah, the price isn't always higher due to the stove being larger. It's the demand that drives the price. If more people need a Grandma due to the lower heat output, they would be willing to pay more for that model than the larger one.
As you go through those completed listings on eBay, you'll see these two items I got recently with Buy it Nows that I think were extremely cheap ! 4.99 for the etched lead printing block that printed the Fisher ads, and a painted brass belt buckle for only 10 bucks. This buckle was originally painted with regular stove paint, with polished brass raised letters and edges. As the original paint flaked off, the owner touched it up with a black Sharpie. Another project to restore when it gets here.......
As you go through those completed listings on eBay, you'll see these two items I got recently with Buy it Nows that I think were extremely cheap ! 4.99 for the etched lead printing block that printed the Fisher ads, and a painted brass belt buckle for only 10 bucks. This buckle was originally painted with regular stove paint, with polished brass raised letters and edges. As the original paint flaked off, the owner touched it up with a black Sharpie. Another project to restore when it gets here.......
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Well I am sorry to inform you guys that I didn't get the stove cleaned up as well as I would have liked. I had to settle for a quick wire brush job as the cold got here faster than I expected. Hopefully next summer it will get the revamp that it deserves.
Singed Eyebrows
Minister of Fire
Those are some good deals Coaly, when you got nothing to do you polish up that buckle, lol, Randycoaly said:
Eric Gradoia
Member
I just hooked up a Baby Bear as a second stove for a small wing in the house. Coming from burning an EPA stove I'm interested in knowing how exactly to run this guy correctly. I'd appreciate any input you all can provide. Start up temps, when to damper it down, and what to run it at. I burn seasoned hardwood (ash, maple, cherry, oak). If I'm burning correctly, will I really need to clean the pipes more than once a season?
Thanks, in advance.
Thanks, in advance.
coaly said:
May I ask why this one in particular is worth 1600??? I dont get it. Trying to learn more about Fishers!
Welcome to the forum !
It sold for $1600. I'd say it's worth 600 for a user. I collect the older first designs that there were only so many made before changes. This one is just one of the later styles with brass plated doors with glass. I guess if anyone is in the market for a new stove, and consider the price of buying new (and getting one made better) it's still a good deal.
I would pay more than the average person for a glass Honey Bear (pedestal), since that's about the only stove my collection is missing. Or the very first Papa's with a steel plate door. The problem becomes anyone knowing they can rip someone off can simply remove the cast door, and make their own steel plate to fake one. Then I'd be the fool to pay cross country shipping to add insult to injury.
As for the "Fisher Oven" on eBay; Beware Baxter Fisher did like to experiment with water coils and ovens, but wanted glass oven doors ! That "Oven" with acorn decoration appears to only have a Fisher old style spring handle. That's the only thing "Fisher" I see about it. Now if the seller can come up with an original receipt stating what he bought, that would be different. Ask questions, and assume the sellers don't know what they're selling. After all, the seller calls that "thing" a Papa Bear ! What a conglomeration. Looks like the base of a Grandpa with Grandpa ash shelf, (there were 3 piece top Fireplace Series) water coil added on the right side, Papa Bear door with original air pipe cap dampers. The vent holes off to the side of firebox look like they would work over the water coil area. 6 inch flue shows a Papa Bear firebox with a Grandpa back as well ??? I'd like to see some paperwork on this one ! (The gawdy trim with steer skull is just wrong)
The simpler Papa Bear to the right, with steel plate oven with just the themometer on the front is a possible Fisher product. The oven is thinner gauge than the 1/4 inch stove. I would think Baxter would have used materials handy in the shop at the time, but he did go out and get glass behind Bob's back. The ash shelf material is thinner than the 1/4 plate. I'll have to mike it to judge what an actual oven would probably be made of.
That's the interesting part of this hobby. It's always evolving into more questions.
It sold for $1600. I'd say it's worth 600 for a user. I collect the older first designs that there were only so many made before changes. This one is just one of the later styles with brass plated doors with glass. I guess if anyone is in the market for a new stove, and consider the price of buying new (and getting one made better) it's still a good deal.
I would pay more than the average person for a glass Honey Bear (pedestal), since that's about the only stove my collection is missing. Or the very first Papa's with a steel plate door. The problem becomes anyone knowing they can rip someone off can simply remove the cast door, and make their own steel plate to fake one. Then I'd be the fool to pay cross country shipping to add insult to injury.
As for the "Fisher Oven" on eBay; Beware Baxter Fisher did like to experiment with water coils and ovens, but wanted glass oven doors ! That "Oven" with acorn decoration appears to only have a Fisher old style spring handle. That's the only thing "Fisher" I see about it. Now if the seller can come up with an original receipt stating what he bought, that would be different. Ask questions, and assume the sellers don't know what they're selling. After all, the seller calls that "thing" a Papa Bear ! What a conglomeration. Looks like the base of a Grandpa with Grandpa ash shelf, (there were 3 piece top Fireplace Series) water coil added on the right side, Papa Bear door with original air pipe cap dampers. The vent holes off to the side of firebox look like they would work over the water coil area. 6 inch flue shows a Papa Bear firebox with a Grandpa back as well ??? I'd like to see some paperwork on this one ! (The gawdy trim with steer skull is just wrong)
The simpler Papa Bear to the right, with steel plate oven with just the themometer on the front is a possible Fisher product. The oven is thinner gauge than the 1/4 inch stove. I would think Baxter would have used materials handy in the shop at the time, but he did go out and get glass behind Bob's back. The ash shelf material is thinner than the 1/4 plate. I'll have to mike it to judge what an actual oven would probably be made of.
That's the interesting part of this hobby. It's always evolving into more questions.
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New to the forum, wanted to find some information out about Fisher stoves. I just acquired what I believe to be a Grandpa bear, Two doors, and gp r and gp l on the doors. After reading this forum I am still perplexed with one item, the stove I purchased has the flue out of the back and not the Top like all the pics I have seen here for the grandpa bears. I will attempt to get some pics of the beast tonight, it is in pretty good shape I would say. Needs some TLC, went straight from the house to this persons barn where it has aged in place for about 7-8 yrs they said, but should clean up fairly well. I knew nothing of the stove or the quality until reading this forum, I only paid 150$ and plan to use it for barn heat, only problem is the barn is only about 1500 sq feet. Sounds like I may be heating sometimes with the doors and windows open.
Also, I live in a home with an existing fireplace, Home was built in the 70's but there was no insert in the house when we bought it. I would like to put an insert in there to help off set propane heat cost. We currently have had 6 fires so far, only lived in the house for a month or so now, but as you all know the heat escapes quicker then it is coming in in a regular fireplace. How well do the Fisher inserts work, and would I be able to put one in without getting in trouble by the Insurance company. They know we have a fireplace that we burn in, at least we told them that when looking for home owners. We live in Indiana, any information is appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Welcome to the forum bigjoe;
The 2000 square foot heating area for that stove was calculated for an insulated home. R-13 was the norm at the time. If the barn is not insulated, or sealed very well, the larger stove may be needed.
Stoves with top flue are best for putting under a self supporting chimney, like with a ceiling support box. (Triple wall metal chimney system like Simpson Dura-Vent) Make sure the clearance from stove and pipe to combustible wall is as specified in the Solid Fuel Code. The stoves with flue out the rear (or side) are best for sitting in front of a hearth, closing off the front of the fireplace with a steel plate with a hole only large enough for the stove pipe. Extend it up the flue as much as you can, or better yet, add a liner. (This was the installation the stove was invented for, having a side flue connection so the stove didn't protrude into the room as far) Stoves with a rear flue would have to sit out in a room quite a bit to gain the required clearance from pipe to combustible wall. Double wall pipe would be used to reduce this clearance as specified in the Code as well.
The insert you're looking at is a UL listed appliance. I have an Insert Owners Manual scanned in pdf for those who need it. Send request to [email protected] Since it has brass or nickel plated doors, (can't tell from the pic) and not just the black cast iron, it's a good deal for 300. I'd buy it quick before someone beats you to it.
I can give you details on a good working baffle for the inside of this insert if you like. They do work very well, as is. Another forum member recently added a smoke shelf baffle and has obtained great results with it. Doubled the heat output (he was not using the factory damper, he was using as free standing stove with damper in pipe) and the baffle cut his wood consumption down 20 to 30%. He'll be posting pictures and exact stats shortly.
The 2000 square foot heating area for that stove was calculated for an insulated home. R-13 was the norm at the time. If the barn is not insulated, or sealed very well, the larger stove may be needed.
Stoves with top flue are best for putting under a self supporting chimney, like with a ceiling support box. (Triple wall metal chimney system like Simpson Dura-Vent) Make sure the clearance from stove and pipe to combustible wall is as specified in the Solid Fuel Code. The stoves with flue out the rear (or side) are best for sitting in front of a hearth, closing off the front of the fireplace with a steel plate with a hole only large enough for the stove pipe. Extend it up the flue as much as you can, or better yet, add a liner. (This was the installation the stove was invented for, having a side flue connection so the stove didn't protrude into the room as far) Stoves with a rear flue would have to sit out in a room quite a bit to gain the required clearance from pipe to combustible wall. Double wall pipe would be used to reduce this clearance as specified in the Code as well.
The insert you're looking at is a UL listed appliance. I have an Insert Owners Manual scanned in pdf for those who need it. Send request to [email protected] Since it has brass or nickel plated doors, (can't tell from the pic) and not just the black cast iron, it's a good deal for 300. I'd buy it quick before someone beats you to it.
I can give you details on a good working baffle for the inside of this insert if you like. They do work very well, as is. Another forum member recently added a smoke shelf baffle and has obtained great results with it. Doubled the heat output (he was not using the factory damper, he was using as free standing stove with damper in pipe) and the baffle cut his wood consumption down 20 to 30%. He'll be posting pictures and exact stats shortly.
Hi to all!
Just found this very informative forum after doing some research to find out about the Fisher log stove I have in my house.
I'm located in Dorset, England, UK, so first of all, I was somewhat surprised to find out that the log burner (as we call them over here) is purely American born and bred. Does anyone know if these were distributed or sold in the UK? I bought the house in April of this year, but I believe the stove will have been installed back in 1990, when this part of the house was originally built. (The main part of the house goes back to early 1800's and still has the original range, plus another smaller log-burner.
So, to fire of a few newbie questions if I may:
1. Can someone please identify the model - I think it's probably a Grandma Bear from the pictures I've seen on here.
2. My model is fitted with a back-boiler, which I've not seen any mention of elsewhere. You can just see from the photo below that there are two large bore copper pipes coming out of the back, which feed up to my hot water tank upstairs. Were these fitted as standard or is it an after-market modification?
3. I cant seem to get my stove to burn slowly - it's using logs and/or coal at an alarming rate. The burner I had at my previous house could be closed right down to smoulder for hours - sometimes over a day or two without needing re-fueling. Even with both vents screwed right in, my Fisher still roars away.
4. You'll also see from the photo that I have an adjustable flap in the flue above the burner. I'm assuming is is only to block off the pipe when the burner is not in use to prevent down-draughts coming down.
5. In my general research on burners (I'm still a novice really), I found to my surprise that they burn wood best when at least 1" of ash is left on the base, but with coal, you have to elevate the coals off the floor of the burner. Are these statements true? How often should I be clearing out the ash?
I think that's probably enough for the time being. I confess that I haven't read all 10 pages of this thread as yet, but what I have read has been very informative. It's getting late here though and I wanted to register and post my questions before bed time.
Many thanks in advance for your advice and information.
Regards
Peter
Just found this very informative forum after doing some research to find out about the Fisher log stove I have in my house.
I'm located in Dorset, England, UK, so first of all, I was somewhat surprised to find out that the log burner (as we call them over here) is purely American born and bred. Does anyone know if these were distributed or sold in the UK? I bought the house in April of this year, but I believe the stove will have been installed back in 1990, when this part of the house was originally built. (The main part of the house goes back to early 1800's and still has the original range, plus another smaller log-burner.
So, to fire of a few newbie questions if I may:
1. Can someone please identify the model - I think it's probably a Grandma Bear from the pictures I've seen on here.
2. My model is fitted with a back-boiler, which I've not seen any mention of elsewhere. You can just see from the photo below that there are two large bore copper pipes coming out of the back, which feed up to my hot water tank upstairs. Were these fitted as standard or is it an after-market modification?
3. I cant seem to get my stove to burn slowly - it's using logs and/or coal at an alarming rate. The burner I had at my previous house could be closed right down to smoulder for hours - sometimes over a day or two without needing re-fueling. Even with both vents screwed right in, my Fisher still roars away.
4. You'll also see from the photo that I have an adjustable flap in the flue above the burner. I'm assuming is is only to block off the pipe when the burner is not in use to prevent down-draughts coming down.
5. In my general research on burners (I'm still a novice really), I found to my surprise that they burn wood best when at least 1" of ash is left on the base, but with coal, you have to elevate the coals off the floor of the burner. Are these statements true? How often should I be clearing out the ash?
I think that's probably enough for the time being. I confess that I haven't read all 10 pages of this thread as yet, but what I have read has been very informative. It's getting late here though and I wanted to register and post my questions before bed time.
Many thanks in advance for your advice and information.
Regards
Peter
Hi, welcome to the forum ! (I absolutely love my Land Rover by the way)
First you have a "Teddy Bear Fireplace Stove" there. (you mention closing "both" air dampers, so if only 1 damper was functional it would be a Goldilocks) Check out page 9 post #194 for more info on yours. They were available in two size stoves having 6 or 8 inch flues respectively. So you'll know if you have the large or small one by the size of the flue. (exit pipe)
2. The water coil was added. Not a factory option.
3. By closing both draft dampers, all Fisher Stoves should be air tight enough to glow with little to no flame. Obviously you have an air leak allowing air to get in somewhere. I'd suspect the inlet dampers are not closing fully? Smoke test with a cigar, pipe or.....if you light a match and shake it so it goes out, you may be able to hold it up to the intake while it smokes to see if the smoke is being pulled in through the intakes. Otherwise try it around the doors. If the triple door seal leaks, that has also been covered in the thread.
4. The thing in the pipe is called a damper. Dampers made in the US have a smaller metered hole in the center so after the stove is up to temperature, you can close it to control the draft
down to the metered opening in it. Not sure about yours. If it's solid, you would need to only close it part way. Always open it fully before opening doors to prevent smoke. Also it's used if you have a screen for your stove. That stove is designed as a free standing fireplace to be used with the door open and the screen in place. By closing the damper partially you can get some heat out of the stove without it all rushing up the chimney. Close it until smoke starts to roll in, and open it slightly just to prevent smoke from coming in. Only do this if you have the correct screen that came with the stove.
5. You are correct in leaving an inch of ash in the bottom of a wood stove. That is also what the Fisher Manual suggests. It slows the burn preventing oxygen from getting under the wood, and protects the fire brick bottom when loading. Ash only needs to be removed to make room for more wood. If allowed to get too deep, you'll find the fire area getting small. (if you light a piece of newspaper in the stove when you shovel it out, you'll find the fly ash is pulled into the stove keeping the house cleaner)
Coal requires air to come up through the coal bed. So coal is burned on a grate. They are usually movable to allow the ash to be shaken through with a handle. Coal stoves normally have an ash pan under the grate with air intake in the ash pan door to allow the air to enter up through the coal. European stoves use a "slicer knife" that is a flat bar that is worked across the flat grate like a knife slicing bread to break up the ash. It works quite well. Ash must be kept BELOW the grate since the air coming up through it cools the grate and keeps it from warping or melting the grate !
Fisher Stoves is still in business in New Zealand, so you may be able to get a new one near you. They are not available to us in the US. Yes, it crossed my mind to have you buy one and ship it to me. But I'm afraid my wife would get the Rover in the battle that would create.
First you have a "Teddy Bear Fireplace Stove" there. (you mention closing "both" air dampers, so if only 1 damper was functional it would be a Goldilocks) Check out page 9 post #194 for more info on yours. They were available in two size stoves having 6 or 8 inch flues respectively. So you'll know if you have the large or small one by the size of the flue. (exit pipe)
2. The water coil was added. Not a factory option.
3. By closing both draft dampers, all Fisher Stoves should be air tight enough to glow with little to no flame. Obviously you have an air leak allowing air to get in somewhere. I'd suspect the inlet dampers are not closing fully? Smoke test with a cigar, pipe or.....if you light a match and shake it so it goes out, you may be able to hold it up to the intake while it smokes to see if the smoke is being pulled in through the intakes. Otherwise try it around the doors. If the triple door seal leaks, that has also been covered in the thread.
4. The thing in the pipe is called a damper. Dampers made in the US have a smaller metered hole in the center so after the stove is up to temperature, you can close it to control the draft
down to the metered opening in it. Not sure about yours. If it's solid, you would need to only close it part way. Always open it fully before opening doors to prevent smoke. Also it's used if you have a screen for your stove. That stove is designed as a free standing fireplace to be used with the door open and the screen in place. By closing the damper partially you can get some heat out of the stove without it all rushing up the chimney. Close it until smoke starts to roll in, and open it slightly just to prevent smoke from coming in. Only do this if you have the correct screen that came with the stove.
5. You are correct in leaving an inch of ash in the bottom of a wood stove. That is also what the Fisher Manual suggests. It slows the burn preventing oxygen from getting under the wood, and protects the fire brick bottom when loading. Ash only needs to be removed to make room for more wood. If allowed to get too deep, you'll find the fire area getting small. (if you light a piece of newspaper in the stove when you shovel it out, you'll find the fly ash is pulled into the stove keeping the house cleaner)
Coal requires air to come up through the coal bed. So coal is burned on a grate. They are usually movable to allow the ash to be shaken through with a handle. Coal stoves normally have an ash pan under the grate with air intake in the ash pan door to allow the air to enter up through the coal. European stoves use a "slicer knife" that is a flat bar that is worked across the flat grate like a knife slicing bread to break up the ash. It works quite well. Ash must be kept BELOW the grate since the air coming up through it cools the grate and keeps it from warping or melting the grate !
Fisher Stoves is still in business in New Zealand, so you may be able to get a new one near you. They are not available to us in the US. Yes, it crossed my mind to have you buy one and ship it to me. But I'm afraid my wife would get the Rover in the battle that would create.
What a fantastic reply - many thanks Coaly! Thanks too for your appreciation of good old British automotive engineering - shame we dont have a motor industry to call our own any more. The Land Rover is timeless and a classic - I followed one home last night as it happened, which was over 25 years old and still pulling like a horse. They're very popular still around my part of the country.
Thanks for the pointer on my "Teddy Bear" stove - sadly the ebay link has been died, so no information there, but at least I know what I'm looking for now. I'm pretty sure my flue is 8".
Strange that the water coil was added - it looks fully integrated. There's a box at the back of the chamber inside that I assume houses the coil. It certainly works though and provides loads of hot water upstairs.
I'll be sure to test the air-tight seal on my stove as I'm pretty sure there must be a leak somewhere. I did read the earlier posts about gaskets and other methods of sealing, pro's & con's etc., so I'm clued up on that now.
Thanks for clearing up the damper - I wasn't sure whether it would be safe to close this off when the fire's going, but perhaps that will help slow down the burn. I guess it's all about learning the process that works best for your particular installation and the fuels you use.
Great trick about sucking on the fly ash by lighting a newspaper in there - I cant believe how much dust the thing generates when cleaning out.
Which fuel do you think is better then - wood or coal? We have been using some compacted, pre-formed coal briquettes that seem to burn quiet well, but they do produce a lot of ash. We dont have a grate in our burner, so perhaps we shouldn't be using them really.
I haven't seen any evidence that Fisher Stoves are still available in the UK - not even second-hand. My one seems in pretty good nick though, so I'm content to learn to live with it and enjoy the warmth it provides (and hot water!).
Next thing I'm considering is a stove fan - do you guys use these? Link below:
http://www.gyroscope.com/d.asp?product=VULCANSTOVEFAN
Thanks for the pointer on my "Teddy Bear" stove - sadly the ebay link has been died, so no information there, but at least I know what I'm looking for now. I'm pretty sure my flue is 8".
Strange that the water coil was added - it looks fully integrated. There's a box at the back of the chamber inside that I assume houses the coil. It certainly works though and provides loads of hot water upstairs.
I'll be sure to test the air-tight seal on my stove as I'm pretty sure there must be a leak somewhere. I did read the earlier posts about gaskets and other methods of sealing, pro's & con's etc., so I'm clued up on that now.
Thanks for clearing up the damper - I wasn't sure whether it would be safe to close this off when the fire's going, but perhaps that will help slow down the burn. I guess it's all about learning the process that works best for your particular installation and the fuels you use.
Great trick about sucking on the fly ash by lighting a newspaper in there - I cant believe how much dust the thing generates when cleaning out.
Which fuel do you think is better then - wood or coal? We have been using some compacted, pre-formed coal briquettes that seem to burn quiet well, but they do produce a lot of ash. We dont have a grate in our burner, so perhaps we shouldn't be using them really.
I haven't seen any evidence that Fisher Stoves are still available in the UK - not even second-hand. My one seems in pretty good nick though, so I'm content to learn to live with it and enjoy the warmth it provides (and hot water!).
Next thing I'm considering is a stove fan - do you guys use these? Link below:
http://www.gyroscope.com/d.asp?product=VULCANSTOVEFAN
Welcome to the forums. I don't know if you've seen this or not, but here is a link to the Fisher Stove Story, provided by the Webmaster, Craig.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Book_-_The_Fisher_Stove_Story/
It's broken down into a few .pdf files, so make sure you have Adobe Reader or Fox It! Reader installed to view the .pdf files. It's a short but interesting read. The man damn near worked himself to death.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Book_-_The_Fisher_Stove_Story/
It's broken down into a few .pdf files, so make sure you have Adobe Reader or Fox It! Reader installed to view the .pdf files. It's a short but interesting read. The man damn near worked himself to death.
I should have made it more clear that the stove pipe damper is mainly used to control the draft. A good drafting chimney would need to be operated closed more. A poor drafting chimney may not need to be closed off much at all. Depends on height, out door temperature, lots of factors. (the colder outside, the stronger the draft, the more you close it. Barometric pressure changes the setting as well). No one can tell you where to set it until you get used to it)
The back of some pedestal stoves have steel plate heat shields for reduced clearance to walls. The manual gives the minimum clearance to combustible wall. Most if not all are 12 inches, but the manual should be consulted for your actual installation. This places the stove pipe closer to the wall as well, (14 1/2 inches) so double wall connecting pipe must also be used for reduced clearance. There is a picture of the shields at bottom of page 6. That may be what you're looking at. It's a simple matter to add a copper coil between these shields.
Yes we use stove top fans. They are usually powered by a thermocouple type power source (dissimilar metals make contact when hot creating a controlled electrolysis that becomes a generator to run the small electric motor). You can look up Ecofan as one brand. The Sterling Engine was used over here in the 1800's as a large engine in the basement to pump water. A coal fire was built in the base, and the hot air engine would stay running after a push, and was connected to a plunger rod going down in a shallow well next to the engine. I repair and run steam traction engines and antique engines like this, so most people here are not familiar with that type of engine. The electric stove top fans only have the motor shaft that turns with nothing to wear out but a bearing.
The back of some pedestal stoves have steel plate heat shields for reduced clearance to walls. The manual gives the minimum clearance to combustible wall. Most if not all are 12 inches, but the manual should be consulted for your actual installation. This places the stove pipe closer to the wall as well, (14 1/2 inches) so double wall connecting pipe must also be used for reduced clearance. There is a picture of the shields at bottom of page 6. That may be what you're looking at. It's a simple matter to add a copper coil between these shields.
Yes we use stove top fans. They are usually powered by a thermocouple type power source (dissimilar metals make contact when hot creating a controlled electrolysis that becomes a generator to run the small electric motor). You can look up Ecofan as one brand. The Sterling Engine was used over here in the 1800's as a large engine in the basement to pump water. A coal fire was built in the base, and the hot air engine would stay running after a push, and was connected to a plunger rod going down in a shallow well next to the engine. I repair and run steam traction engines and antique engines like this, so most people here are not familiar with that type of engine. The electric stove top fans only have the motor shaft that turns with nothing to wear out but a bearing.
Local(ish) Craigslist has a stove seller calls a "Mama Bear" - doesn't say Fisher, just Mama Bear. Has a rear exit, and flat plate top. Just curious whether you think this is a fisher at all. The flat plates almost look like they have a rim on them that wouldn't be right - and the pics are so little that I can't tell whether it says Fisher on the door or not!
(I'm not in the market for one, but I know you are always looking for the original Fishers - I don't think I could ever do better than finding that true original one in Oregon though!)
None of the Fisher ripoffs actually was nervy enough to call their stove a Mama Bear though were they? And if that were a fisher, is it a mama, or a papa?
http://richmond.craigslist.org/for/2082849607.html
(I'm not in the market for one, but I know you are always looking for the original Fishers - I don't think I could ever do better than finding that true original one in Oregon though!)
None of the Fisher ripoffs actually was nervy enough to call their stove a Mama Bear though were they? And if that were a fisher, is it a mama, or a papa?
http://richmond.craigslist.org/for/2082849607.html
At first glance, no it's not a Fisher.
I have questions sent to the seller. Hopefully we'll find out if the door is cast or steel plate and what the door handle knob is made of. The picture of the door is poor.
The top doesn't hang over the edges, and you're right about it having some sort of rim. The legs are short (like the original patent) but not tapered.
Dimensions in the ad don't specify if measurements include the ash fender, as an overall measurement, or just the stove box.
No, it doesn't make sense.
I have questions sent to the seller. Hopefully we'll find out if the door is cast or steel plate and what the door handle knob is made of. The picture of the door is poor.
The top doesn't hang over the edges, and you're right about it having some sort of rim. The legs are short (like the original patent) but not tapered.
Dimensions in the ad don't specify if measurements include the ash fender, as an overall measurement, or just the stove box.
No, it doesn't make sense.
Response from seller;
The door is steel plate. Yes you are correct it does have a lip around the top. I've looked for any identifying marks and can't locate any. When I purchased about ten years ago out in SW Virginia, I was told that it was a Mama Bear then. Don't know much more about it.
Guess we would have to ask the guy he bought it from back in 2000 why he thought it's a Mama.
Most people simply don't know what they're selling. Thanks for keeping an eye out for me !
I got the green light from my loving wife to allow any 3 piece top, a side vent (whoo hoo) and I might be able to talk her into a left hand door, but that's pushing it.
The door is steel plate. Yes you are correct it does have a lip around the top. I've looked for any identifying marks and can't locate any. When I purchased about ten years ago out in SW Virginia, I was told that it was a Mama Bear then. Don't know much more about it.
Guess we would have to ask the guy he bought it from back in 2000 why he thought it's a Mama.
Most people simply don't know what they're selling. Thanks for keeping an eye out for me !
I got the green light from my loving wife to allow any 3 piece top, a side vent (whoo hoo) and I might be able to talk her into a left hand door, but that's pushing it.
OK, here's something I can't explain;
About a month ago I did a search to buy a used Fisher Stove Story. I came up with three in Australia for about 30 bucks each, and one available in the US. I bought the one from Oregon for $8.00 including shipping. Good used condition, thought that was great. Last week, the same bookstore tells me they have another copy for me. They claim it's "Inscribed by Bob Fisher". So I figure they must have gotten a used one and found it was signed years ago. I'll bite, I bought a second one.
Now I wasn't prepared for the shock when I opened a box from Eugene Oregon instead of an envelope like the first one was shipped in. Inside was a BRAND NEW copy, never opened except the front cover to personalize for me and sign as you can see in the pictures below. I didn't scan it, and took a picture of the writing along with the cover so you can see it's written in a new book.
In the Hearth Wiki section of Fisher Stoves at "The Fisher Stove Story" download page there is also a front page signed that Craig was able to scan. The handwriting matches. Mine is written with a blue Sharpie type of marker. I can't explain this.
About a month ago I did a search to buy a used Fisher Stove Story. I came up with three in Australia for about 30 bucks each, and one available in the US. I bought the one from Oregon for $8.00 including shipping. Good used condition, thought that was great. Last week, the same bookstore tells me they have another copy for me. They claim it's "Inscribed by Bob Fisher". So I figure they must have gotten a used one and found it was signed years ago. I'll bite, I bought a second one.
Now I wasn't prepared for the shock when I opened a box from Eugene Oregon instead of an envelope like the first one was shipped in. Inside was a BRAND NEW copy, never opened except the front cover to personalize for me and sign as you can see in the pictures below. I didn't scan it, and took a picture of the writing along with the cover so you can see it's written in a new book.
In the Hearth Wiki section of Fisher Stoves at "The Fisher Stove Story" download page there is also a front page signed that Craig was able to scan. The handwriting matches. Mine is written with a blue Sharpie type of marker. I can't explain this.
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I just moved into my grandfather's old farmhouse recently. It is heated with a grandma bear. I am redoing the woodshop and I am planning to heat it with wood. Tomorrow I am going to look at a mama bear stove and the picture shows a left handed hinged door on it. Did fisher make a left handed hinged door? I just found your topic on fisher today while looking for an owners manual. Any help would be appreciated. I'll try posting the picture.
Thanks
Thanks
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