I have a 4 story 100 year old townhouse. Last winter I hired a fireplace company to put a wood stove in the basement. There used to be an oil burner venting into the brick flu, which ended about 4 years ago. The chimney has about 25' of 8" stainless steel all-fuel pipe extending it after it ends about 8' above the roof line - left over from the oil boiler days.
They inspected the chimney, said all looked good, and installed a lenox grandview 230. So far everything is great, and I have very good draft. There is no liner in the the flu - just the original brick.
They had a cursory look at the chimney on the first floor and said it looked to be in similar good shape to the basement chimney.
I want to install an englander 17-VL on the first floor, and I want to do it myself (having been completely ***** by the fireplace company). I'm a reasonably good mason and have done a fair bit of the roof chimney work.
I've been reading a lot of info online, some of which says you NEED to line a masonry chimney if installing a new wood burning device. other sources don't say it's necessary but preferred.
WHY?
The stove in the basement is working wonderfully - why shouldn't the 1st floor follow suit?
Is there any reason I can't knock some bricks out of the 4' wide floor-to-ceiling fireplace and put the stove pipe through, venting it into the old brick chimney?
Is there any reason I need to come up out of the stove a certain amount before making the turn into the fireplace? Given the choice I would come out with a 12" pipe, turn and go straight into the chimney.
Is a 45 degree turn better than a 90?
Do I need to extend the chimney up top? As of now it comes about a foot above the roof line.
If so, how high above the roof line does the forum recommend? There is a building next to us on the chimney side that is about 20' taller.
And finally, if I do put the stove pipe into the old chimney above the stove, should I seal the the original lower opening of the chimney?
They inspected the chimney, said all looked good, and installed a lenox grandview 230. So far everything is great, and I have very good draft. There is no liner in the the flu - just the original brick.
They had a cursory look at the chimney on the first floor and said it looked to be in similar good shape to the basement chimney.
I want to install an englander 17-VL on the first floor, and I want to do it myself (having been completely ***** by the fireplace company). I'm a reasonably good mason and have done a fair bit of the roof chimney work.
I've been reading a lot of info online, some of which says you NEED to line a masonry chimney if installing a new wood burning device. other sources don't say it's necessary but preferred.
WHY?
The stove in the basement is working wonderfully - why shouldn't the 1st floor follow suit?
Is there any reason I can't knock some bricks out of the 4' wide floor-to-ceiling fireplace and put the stove pipe through, venting it into the old brick chimney?
Is there any reason I need to come up out of the stove a certain amount before making the turn into the fireplace? Given the choice I would come out with a 12" pipe, turn and go straight into the chimney.
Is a 45 degree turn better than a 90?
Do I need to extend the chimney up top? As of now it comes about a foot above the roof line.
If so, how high above the roof line does the forum recommend? There is a building next to us on the chimney side that is about 20' taller.
And finally, if I do put the stove pipe into the old chimney above the stove, should I seal the the original lower opening of the chimney?
