F600 Single wall pipe connection question

[jotul?]

Hello all, I have my F600 set up to rear vent, and my single wall black pipe and the collar on the vent itself don't make what I would call an airtight seal. The gap is minimal, 1/32 or maybe even 1/64 of an inch, so I'm thinking a little stove cement? Also, how far should my pipe protrude into the vent? The connector collar is only an inch wide and then the vent rapidly opens into the stove. Thanks.

 

[begreen]

You can finger push a little cement in there. May not be necessary. The pipe should seat in the collar as far as possible, at least 3/4" so that you can screw through the collar and anchor it safely.

 

[jotul?]

Thanks begreen, I thought as much since the connector collar on the stove has two self tappers already through the cast iron.

 

[jotul?]

Can anyone tell me what the clearance requirement is for black single wall pipe to the wall in a rear vent situation? As in how far does the snout of the class A have to protrude through the thimble into the house? Also, can the neck of the single wall black adaptor be installed directly into the vent collar on the stove or does there have to be a piece of single wall pipe between them?

 

[Heatsource]

Can anyone tell me what the clearance requirement is for black single wall pipe to the wall in a rear vent situation? As in how far does the snout of the class A have to protrude through the thimble into the house? Also, can the neck of the single wall black adaptor be installed directly into the vent collar on the stove or does there have to be a piece of single wall pipe between them?

the class a pipe needs to come 2" into the room

 

[jotul?]

the class a pipe needs to come 2" into the room

Thank you! I'm having some fitment issues. That helps a lot.

 

[webby3650]

Yes, the single wall chimney adaptor can attach directly to the stove. As long as all the clearance requirements are met on the stove.

 

[fossil]

If the system is properly installed and drafts well, small gaps at the piping joints won't be a problem, as the pressure inside the pipe during operation will be below that of the living space. Rather than flue gases leaking out, room air will be drawn in. So it's up to you if you want to smush some furnace cement in there or not. So long as the whole system works fine, it really doesn't matter. Rick

 

[Nick Mystic]

I have a Jotul F600 with the flue collar set up for rear venting. In my setup I have the snout of a SS T connector going into the collar. The screws that are threaded through the cast iron collar can't punch through the SS pipe and just squeeze the pipe as they are tightened making a dimple in the pipe. With thick pipe like that you need to pre-drill the pipe. I installed the pipe as far into the collar as I could force it (a very tight fit requiring a belt clamp to pull it in far enough for a good connection). I used a marking pen to draw marks on the pipe where the holes were and then removed the pipe and drilled the two holes. When I put the pipe back in I used an awl to help line up the holes before I put in the screws. Worked well.

 

[jotul?]

Yes, the single wall chimney adaptor can attach directly to the stove. As long as all the clearance requirements are met on the stove.

Thanks webby, I broke down and bought an 18" pipe and a 12" pipe to put together instead of using a 36" pipe. I could've forced it to work with the 36 but I only want to do this once.

 

[jotul?]

I have a Jotul F600 with the flue collar set up for rear venting. In my setup I have the snout of a SS T connector going into the collar. The screws that are threaded through the cast iron collar can't punch through the SS pipe and just squeeze the pipe as they are tightened making a dimple in the pipe. With thick pipe like that you need to pre-drill the pipe. I installed the pipe as far into the collar as I could force it (a very tight fit requiring a belt clamp to pull it in far enough for a good connection). I used a marking pen to draw marks on the pipe where the holes were and then removed the pipe and drilled the two holes. When I put the pipe back in I used an awl to help line up the holes before I put in the screws. Worked well.

Thanks Nick and Fossil, I will pre drill for sure, I have a 12" black Ventis pipe to go into the flue collar and it is going to be too long, so I'll have to cut it down a bit and I will be cutting off the nice little bulge they formed in there to butt up against the collar. That was why I was wondering about the cement and fitment.